FOG LIGHT WIRING
There have been a number of solutions come up, but this is the easiest and least destructive method.
First you must locate the DRL control module. It is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes behind the radio. It is clipped to the HVAC duct and has two connectors going into it, one blue and the other black. The blue connector on the DRL module has eight cavities, but only seven of them are used. Cavity B is empty. If that terminal is grounded, your DRLs are disabled. The black wire in cavity A is a ground, so I took the DRL module apart (easy to do, the cover just slips off) and solder-jumpered the A and B terminals on the PCB. This leaves you with no DRLs, you power hatch and handbrake light still works, and it all looks factory. Easy to undo if you want. Some people have expressed a desire for a switch to select whether you want the DRLs or not. This is very easy to do. All you need to do is put a switch inline with the wire that's jumping cavity A and cavity B, and that's it. You will not need to be concerned with fuses in this situation because you're jumping a ground, not a hot wire.
I wanted to do this so incase I had any problems I could just remove the wire. Sofar it has worked great.
http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/drl.html
I have not tried this personally. I did do the !DRL mod from the link in my previous post and it worked great
How to wire your fog lights so they stay on with high beams
1993+ Camaro/Firebird
1. Open the hood
2. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
3. Open the black box that contains fuses and relays on the driver's side.
4. Twist off the plastic screw and take the cover off.
5. Find the fog-light relay, labeled in block H. There is a list of labels for the wires inside the box cover.
6. The Black box is held down by 6 plastic retainers connected to the frame, push them in with a flathead screw driver and pop off the bottom piece.
7. Look at the bottom where the wires go into the box, and locate where the fog light relay is. You should see the following wires:
orange - yellow - purple - light green
8. Cut the light green wire. Then get some extra wire (e.g. speaker wire) and attach it to the end of the wire coming out of the relay box. This gives you enough length to ground it. Use one of the hex-head screws holding the left fender piece as the ground. Even though the fender is fiberglass the screw still touches the frame. Unscrew it a little bit and wrap the wire around and retighten the screw.
9. Put electrical tape around the end of the (dead end) light green wire coming out of the harness.
10. Put the Box back on its mounting, it should snap into place.
11. Put the cover back on.
12. Reattach the negative battery cable.
13. Check the fog lights, low beam, hi-beam, and then fog+hi beam.
Notice: The amber light on the fog light switch which lights up when they are on, WILL still go out when HI-BEAM is activated. Its no big deal. The circuitry inside the light selection switch still turns it off.
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