unit213

Alright guys, I have an electrical issue I need some help with. Last week my car wouldn't start. It was like the battery was dead, but it wasn't. I know it's related to the PASSII system (or whatever it is called). I cleaned the key and inside the ignition with an alcohol swab. The car runs, but the security light stays on. I haven't tried my spare key yet. Here's the kicker. Two weeks ago I was hooking up a nitrous bottle warmer. I tried tapping into the ignition wire for a 12v ignition swtiched power source. I guess I spliced the wrong wire. I corrected the problem and reinstalled everything. It was fine for a week then the wouldn't start.

Ideas?

Dan

Edit: Here is the wire that I spliced into (orange). I was told that was the ignition wire.

<small>[ April 23, 2003, 03:26 PM: Message edited by: unit213 ]</small>

unit213

I tried the spare key. It started the car however the security light remained on. I disconnected the battery overnight. I hooked it back up and started the car...same thing. The car would just about fall on it's face though. I guess the PCM was re-learning everything.

At this point, I think it might be the sensor inside the ingition that reads the resistor in the key. Anyone know how to verify that? Taking it to a dealer is out of the question unfortunately.

unit213

I believe the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System) is either disabled or not functioning properly. Doesn't the BCM read the resistor in the key?

Need some help here guys...

Broken041

That my man is the VATS that you are into. See the two white wires coming out of the sheath? Those are for the VATS. Undo what you have done and be sure to tape up both wires separately.

As for the orange wire being ignition, hmm....that's acc. Use the a large pink wire for ignition. If you do this again, follow the wires out of the column. That is where you can find the wires that you need. About the same size of the VATS sheath that you found.

Hope that helps.

Kim

unit213

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Broken041:
<strong> That my man is the VATS that you are into. See the two white wires coming out of the sheath? Those are for the VATS. Undo what you have done and be sure to tape up both wires separately.

Kim </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks Kim. That does help a bit. Since I know little to none about electronics, I have another question. Can I cut that VATS wires (orange) in half completely and reconnect them? I never cut completely through them. I only removed a part of the outer orange sheath. However, it's very possible that there is poor contact being made. I'm concerned that the VATS will be completely engaged (car won't start at all) if I cut that wire in half.

malibu350

My .02 cents on the issue would be yes that you can cut them in half, and reconnect them. But I don't know if that circuit is sensitive to added resistance. Anybody else know???

unit213

It's an anti-theft system so it would make sense that cutting the wire could make the problem worse since a would-be thief may try cutting the wires to disable the system. I've unplugged it before with the battery disconnected. That esentially should be the same as cutting it right?

malibu350

yes cutting would be the same thing as disconecting it.

unit213

I'll cut, strip, and reconnect the wire tonight. Hopefully that fixes the problem. I'll post my results. Thanks for the help. Wish me luck!

minivette

Good luck cause I am fighting the POS VATS right now. This, by far, has been the sorriest POS car I have ever owned. UGH! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

unit213

Last night I cut that wire and re-connected it properly. The security light is still on. Maybe it's the BCM (or whatever reads the resistor in the key)?

What do you think?

minivette

unit213, I am at a loss as to what is wrong where. My car has different symptoms than your car but I'll try to explain what I think is wrong with mine and you can take what you want out of it.

I know there could be three things that "could" be wrong. The ground wires in the column, the BCM, and the VATS module. Each runs approx. $300 to fix.

With my car, it could be a combination of all three. I'm not sure yet. That's why I am going to try to bypass the column that reads the key with the resistor. That is the cheapest by far and if it still messes up, I have that problem out of the way and I can concentrate on what else might be wrong.

My car will start sometimes, then other times not. I will turn the key, nothing, and the security light will be on. After waiting 3-5 minutes, it will reset and I can start the car. Sometimes driving down the road the security light will come on and then go off. Also, sometimes the car will start, run for 1-2 seconds then die. This is a result of the VATS disabling the injectors. It does both, disable the starter and injectors.

I wish someone would steal my car but, I don't think it would start. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

unit213

minivette- thanks for the detailed post. That helps some. My car starts like a champ every single time (knock on wood). However it wouldn't start once, for about 6 hours, last week. The security light is always on when I drive. I'm at a loss. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> The good news is I'm getting a new car. I'll let the dealer mess with it once I'm rid of it.

minivette

Well, I soldered in the resistor to simulate the key and mine fired right up. Good luck in your new car.