Will My Planned New System Work Or Will It Blow My Car Up?
09-13-2006, 05:18 PM
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Will My Planned New System Work Or Will It Blow My Car Up? I have a 2002 Z-28 with the Monsoon stereo and I want to replace the entire system with an iPod compatible headunit. I am interested more in sound quality than in SPL. I plan on having a local shop do the actual installation work.
The problem is that I am totally ignorant about electronics and my attempts to figure this stuff out have failed. So I would like to list what I plan on getting so someone here can tell me if it will all play nice together or if I should change my plans. Here goes:
HU: Alpine CDA-9857
Front: Crystal Mobilesound SSCS6 Component
Front Amp: JL 300/2
Sub: IDQ10D2 v.2 10'' in a subthump driver's side box and amps in a subthump amp rack
Sub Amp: JL 250/1
So far I have brought the Alpine headunit and the SSCS6 components. I wasn't planning on using rear speakers. Thanks in advance.
The problem is that I am totally ignorant about electronics and my attempts to figure this stuff out have failed. So I would like to list what I plan on getting so someone here can tell me if it will all play nice together or if I should change my plans. Here goes:
HU: Alpine CDA-9857
Front: Crystal Mobilesound SSCS6 Component
Front Amp: JL 300/2
Sub: IDQ10D2 v.2 10'' in a subthump driver's side box and amps in a subthump amp rack
Sub Amp: JL 250/1
So far I have brought the Alpine headunit and the SSCS6 components. I wasn't planning on using rear speakers. Thanks in advance.
09-13-2006, 08:33 PM
#2
Any reason for using 300x2 watts for the front speakers (unless the components you're using handles that much)? Other than that, it looks like a very nice system that should sound great in your car.
09-13-2006, 08:47 PM
#3
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I've used Crystal Mobilesound speakers and they are pretty good. I suggest you fill the area behind them with dacron (pillow stuffing) as it should help a bit with bass extension. I would use Eclipse amps, not JL. The sub is a good choice. Unless the cost is too much, I would also use an Eclipse HU over Alpine.
09-14-2006, 06:49 AM
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do NOT put any stuffing in your doors, water gets in there.
JL amps are fine, as are just about any modern decent brand amp. It's all a matter of preference.
FWIW, a JL 300/2 is 150 watts by 2, not 300 x 2. Good choices all around, you should be pleased given a decent install and tuning.
JL amps are fine, as are just about any modern decent brand amp. It's all a matter of preference.
FWIW, a JL 300/2 is 150 watts by 2, not 300 x 2. Good choices all around, you should be pleased given a decent install and tuning.
09-14-2006, 10:31 AM
#5
If you are going to run your doors full range (no high pass) then you'll probably want at least a little dynamat in the equation somewhere. The doors get buzzy pretty fast with that level of power to a good driver.
I think you'll be quite happy, the only other comments you'll get are brand vs. price arguements. The approach and foundation is tight.
Personally I would consider using a 4 channel amp and bridging the backs for the sub. Or maybe a 5 channel bridging for the fronts but still having a class D sub channel (like the memphis amps offer - the baby will run 150x2+400x1 class D). But I am cheap and prefer to keep one amp as it's easier to hide and setup. Multiple amps definitely look better, though if you want some showiness.
Used monsoon stuff still sells for decent cash... especially the door and sail panel drivers... you'd be suprised. Just my old vert speakers paid for my memphis baby belle (used).
I think you'll be quite happy, the only other comments you'll get are brand vs. price arguements. The approach and foundation is tight.
Personally I would consider using a 4 channel amp and bridging the backs for the sub. Or maybe a 5 channel bridging for the fronts but still having a class D sub channel (like the memphis amps offer - the baby will run 150x2+400x1 class D). But I am cheap and prefer to keep one amp as it's easier to hide and setup. Multiple amps definitely look better, though if you want some showiness.
Used monsoon stuff still sells for decent cash... especially the door and sail panel drivers... you'd be suprised. Just my old vert speakers paid for my memphis baby belle (used).
Last edited by todddchi; 09-14-2006 at 10:37 AM.
09-14-2006, 02:26 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Mike @ FbodyAudio
do NOT put any stuffing in your doors, water gets in there.
09-14-2006, 06:41 PM
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Thanks for the information. My plans have changed a little, as last night I found out about Zed Audio and read up on them. I went ahead and brought one of their Deuce amps for my SSCS6s. I also brought a subthump driver's side stealthbox and an amp rack.
Now I need to get the IDQ and a sub amp. I am a little confused about the dual 4 ohm coils and dual 2 ohm coils. I am not sure which one to get so that it will work with the sub amp. I need to figure that out.
And I will most likely get the doors dynamated, even though that will add some weight. My next mods will add more than enough HP to take care of that.
Now I need to get the IDQ and a sub amp. I am a little confused about the dual 4 ohm coils and dual 2 ohm coils. I am not sure which one to get so that it will work with the sub amp. I need to figure that out.
And I will most likely get the doors dynamated, even though that will add some weight. My next mods will add more than enough HP to take care of that.
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09-15-2006, 05:57 PM
#8
Sorry dragonrage but water does get in there and your paper cone stock speakers pay the price later even with the plastic covers over them to protect them. There are even drainage holes in the bottoms of the doors to let the moisture out. The rubber seals on the outside of the door windows only do so much on these cars (F-bodies). Please note I am not saying they FILL up with water or anything but a significant amount of moisture does get in there.
09-15-2006, 08:52 PM
#10
Jesus man it's not water so much as it is moisture. Light runoff from the rain channels, a wet window you roll down, condensation and so forth.
The doors won't exactly fill with water but if you put an absorbent material in there like fiberfill there's a healthy chance it'll eventually turn in to a ball of goo mold, feed rust, and everything else associated with it with having something like that in your door.
If you got fiberfill in there and you think it is ok, that's fine, but don't spread disinformation about it being a sound practice.
The doors won't exactly fill with water but if you put an absorbent material in there like fiberfill there's a healthy chance it'll eventually turn in to a ball of goo mold, feed rust, and everything else associated with it with having something like that in your door.
If you got fiberfill in there and you think it is ok, that's fine, but don't spread disinformation about it being a sound practice.
09-15-2006, 09:54 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Walking-dead
Sorry dragonrage but water does get in there and your paper cone stock speakers pay the price later even with the plastic covers over them to protect them. There are even drainage holes in the bottoms of the doors to let the moisture out. The rubber seals on the outside of the door windows only do so much on these cars (F-bodies). Please note I am not saying they FILL up with water or anything but a significant amount of moisture does get in there.
