Cheap Power Wire
Cheap Power Wire I saw at farm and fleet you can buy a 25ft rool of 4ga. battery cable for $26. Would this be ok to run for your power cable to your amp. I can't see why not but i just wanted to make sure. Thanks alot
I would use a decent grade of power wire. Make sure it is flexable and has a lot of insulation. Also, the more strands, the better for power delivery. I would spend the extra money and get this http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=24033331
With power wire, you do get what you pay for sometimes, within reason. That 4ga power wire might sound like a good deal, but probably doesn't flow power (for lack of a better term) any better than a good grade 8ga that may be a similar price.
I got my wiring from eDesign, here: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=28_30
They have some badass products. I have a 9.2x amp that I'm running bridged to three JL subs (I forget which model) but the amp is turned down to roughly 30% and still pushes the subs to full excursion.
I got my wiring from eDesign, here: http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php?cPath=28_30
They have some badass products. I have a 9.2x amp that I'm running bridged to three JL subs (I forget which model) but the amp is turned down to roughly 30% and still pushes the subs to full excursion.
As long as it is rated for harsh environment and high temperature use, I.E. automotive/farm equiptment, it will work fine. You will only be sacrificing some flexibility and cosmetic appeal. It will flow the same current as any other 4ga wire. Just be sure it is still flexible enough to work with easily, if it is fairly stiff, buy something else.
I believe Blacker is refering to skin effect in his comment, which is a (minor) consideration when transfering audio signals, but it will not make a difference when suppling power to your amp as long as you have good contacts at both ends.
I believe Blacker is refering to skin effect in his comment, which is a (minor) consideration when transfering audio signals, but it will not make a difference when suppling power to your amp as long as you have good contacts at both ends.
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ya, wire is pretty much wire in the form of transfering current....
check out www.Premier-Audio.com theyve got a 1/0 gauge kit for liek 27.00 I believe.
check out www.Premier-Audio.com theyve got a 1/0 gauge kit for liek 27.00 I believe.
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Wire definitely isn't wire. Just because it is the same gauge as another wire doesn't make them even. Wire gauge is just the thickness of the wire, not how much current it can flow. It's comparable to spark plug wires. To tell how much current it can flow, check the resistance (Ohm's) per foot of wire and that will be a better indication. The higher the resistance, the hotter it will get, and the less current it will flow when you start to push the demand for electricity.
This isn't a big deal if you're adding a small, single amp. But if you start to push the system, and get a nice size amp, be careful, that's how car fires start.
This isn't a big deal if you're adding a small, single amp. But if you start to push the system, and get a nice size amp, be careful, that's how car fires start.
Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Wire definitely isn't wire. Just because it is the same gauge as another wire doesn't make them even. Wire gauge is just the thickness of the wire, not how much current it can flow. It's comparable to spark plug wires. To tell how much current it can flow, check the resistance (Ohm's) per foot of wire and that will be a better indication. The higher the resistance, the hotter it will get, and the less current it will flow when you start to push the demand for electricity.
Spark plug wires are a different matter. Plug wires do not all use the same conductive core materials from manufacturer to manufacturer, yealding a wide range of performance differences (it isn't just a wire in a jacket on production cars due to RF interference issues). Also the high temp jackets on plug wires have much more to do with their proximity to hot exhaust componants than to current capacity.
Most wire failures are due to improper (or complete lack of) fuse installation, chafing against the cassis, or using wire that is not rated for an automotive environment. As long as you stay within the current rating of the wire you buy and do a properly fused install you will not have a problem.