Another Camaro door speaker replacement question
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Another Camaro door speaker replacement question OK first off, I have read the sticky's and did the search thing. I'm pretty sure I understand a majority of it but I still have a couple quick question before I start.
I'm going to repace my Monsoon door speakers and I think I have decided to go the Infinity Kappa 62.7i route over the Alpine SPS-17C2 option simply because, as I understand it, the Infinities don't need to be modified.
My first question is easy. Am I correct in my understanding that since the Infinity's have seperate connections for the Mids and Tweeters that they require no monification? (BTW, I understand I will need to adapt the 4 wire pigtail on the factory wiring harness)
Second, I read that the Monsoon amp is 2ohm and the factory head unit is 4ohm. I have read and think I understand the effects of using a 4ohm speaker (Alpines) with the 2ohm Monsoon amp. Basically nothing other than maybe a little loss in volume. Are the effects simular for going the other way? Using a 2ohm speaker (Infinitiy) with the 4ohm head unit. Will "overpowering" the tweeters hurt them over time? And what are the effects on sound quality if any?
I'm going to repace my Monsoon door speakers and I think I have decided to go the Infinity Kappa 62.7i route over the Alpine SPS-17C2 option simply because, as I understand it, the Infinities don't need to be modified.
My first question is easy. Am I correct in my understanding that since the Infinity's have seperate connections for the Mids and Tweeters that they require no monification? (BTW, I understand I will need to adapt the 4 wire pigtail on the factory wiring harness)
Second, I read that the Monsoon amp is 2ohm and the factory head unit is 4ohm. I have read and think I understand the effects of using a 4ohm speaker (Alpines) with the 2ohm Monsoon amp. Basically nothing other than maybe a little loss in volume. Are the effects simular for going the other way? Using a 2ohm speaker (Infinitiy) with the 4ohm head unit. Will "overpowering" the tweeters hurt them over time? And what are the effects on sound quality if any?
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Yes, the separate connections will allow you to connect the speakers the same way as the stock ones (except for not being able to use the factory connectors).
No, you can't go the other way. Using speakers of higher impedance reduces the current flow as well as the volume (although with more efficient replacement speakers the difference in volume won't be much). However, reducing the impedance of the output increases the current flow probably more than the output section of the amp (in this case the internal amp of the head unit) can handle. In other words, you risk destroying your head unit - especially if you listen at higher volumes.
No, you can't go the other way. Using speakers of higher impedance reduces the current flow as well as the volume (although with more efficient replacement speakers the difference in volume won't be much). However, reducing the impedance of the output increases the current flow probably more than the output section of the amp (in this case the internal amp of the head unit) can handle. In other words, you risk destroying your head unit - especially if you listen at higher volumes.
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Yes, the separate connections will allow you to connect the speakers the same way as the stock ones (except for not being able to use the factory connectors).
No, you can't go the other way. Using speakers of higher impedance reduces the current flow as well as the volume (although with more efficient replacement speakers the difference in volume won't be much). However, reducing the impedance of the output increases the current flow probably more than the output section of the amp (in this case the internal amp of the head unit) can handle. In other words, you risk destroying your head unit - especially if you listen at higher volumes.
No, you can't go the other way. Using speakers of higher impedance reduces the current flow as well as the volume (although with more efficient replacement speakers the difference in volume won't be much). However, reducing the impedance of the output increases the current flow probably more than the output section of the amp (in this case the internal amp of the head unit) can handle. In other words, you risk destroying your head unit - especially if you listen at higher volumes.
Last edited by 02SS0384; Nov 16, 2006 at 07:19 AM.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Most of the posts about speaker upgrades are about replacing the factory speakers (which tend to blow) with something compatible with the Monsoon amp - hence 2-ohms. If you just want to replace your speakers without rewiring them to the head unit then the Kappa's will work fine.
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But doesn't replacing the factory door speaker with aftermarker spearkers require wiring them to the head unit since the factory tweeters are powered by the head unit? The monsoon amp has a crossover that only sends mid bass to the front door speakers.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
On a Camaro all speakers are powered by the amp. The Monsoon amp is eight channel and the Camaro has eight speakers. It's only on Firebirds that the tweeters in the ten speaker system are powered off the head unit. Also, the amp does not filter the signal to the doors - it only filters the signal to the sail panels. There is a high pass filter in the door to protect the tweeters but the mid gets a full-range signal.
In any case you can just use the factory wiring and replace the speakers without worrying about problems with the amp or rewiring to the head unit.
In any case you can just use the factory wiring and replace the speakers without worrying about problems with the amp or rewiring to the head unit.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Formula350
Sooooo is it really bad that I replaced the rear 10ohm mids with 4ohm 2-way coaxle?! O_O (I have the pre-monsoon 10speaker)
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From: Panama City, FL
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
On a Camaro all speakers are powered by the amp. The Monsoon amp is eight channel and the Camaro has eight speakers. It's only on Firebirds that the tweeters in the ten speaker system are powered off the head unit. Also, the amp does not filter the signal to the doors - it only filters the signal to the sail panels. There is a high pass filter in the door to protect the tweeters but the mid gets a full-range signal.
In any case you can just use the factory wiring and replace the speakers without worrying about problems with the amp or rewiring to the head unit.
In any case you can just use the factory wiring and replace the speakers without worrying about problems with the amp or rewiring to the head unit.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/126979-those-wanting-only-upgrade-speakers-camaro-s-come-here.html
Originally Posted by tuffluck
now, the problem with the camaro over the firebird is that firebirds just suck...err, sorry i meant the problem with the STEREO in the camaro is that the front speakers are wired much differently than in the firebird. i won't take the time to explain the difference from a firebird point of view, but i will explain what the camaro wiring is (for those of you that don't know).
all i will explain is the technicalities of how the door speakers work. factory speakers are 2-way coaxial speakers at 2 ohms. the midbass portion of the speaker is powered by the amp. the amp filters out highs/lows and only permits mids to go to that portion of the speaker. the tweeters located in the center of the speaker do NOT go to the amp in the rear of the car. instead, they go directly to the head unit.
all i will explain is the technicalities of how the door speakers work. factory speakers are 2-way coaxial speakers at 2 ohms. the midbass portion of the speaker is powered by the amp. the amp filters out highs/lows and only permits mids to go to that portion of the speaker. the tweeters located in the center of the speaker do NOT go to the amp in the rear of the car. instead, they go directly to the head unit.
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I've been working on a replacement for the Monsoon FAQ sticky because it has some inaccurate information and continues to fuel some of the myths about Monsoon systems. That quote from the speaker replacement thread is just plain wrong.
The Camaro Monsoon has eight speaker elements - coaxially mounted components (mid, tweeter) in the doors, SVC subs in the sail panels, and small full-range speakers in the hatch area. All are powered by the amp (eight channels total).
The Firebird Monsoon (coupe only) has ten speaker elements - separately mounted components in the doors (mid, tweeter), DVC subs in the sail panels, and separately mounted components in the hatch area (mid, tweeter). The mids account for four channels and the dual voice coil subs account for the other four channels that run off the eight channel amp. The tweeters run off the head unit.
If you are really concerned about this I would be happy to post the wiring schematics although I was saving that for the replacement sticky when I get it done.
The Camaro Monsoon has eight speaker elements - coaxially mounted components (mid, tweeter) in the doors, SVC subs in the sail panels, and small full-range speakers in the hatch area. All are powered by the amp (eight channels total).
The Firebird Monsoon (coupe only) has ten speaker elements - separately mounted components in the doors (mid, tweeter), DVC subs in the sail panels, and separately mounted components in the hatch area (mid, tweeter). The mids account for four channels and the dual voice coil subs account for the other four channels that run off the eight channel amp. The tweeters run off the head unit.
If you are really concerned about this I would be happy to post the wiring schematics although I was saving that for the replacement sticky when I get it done.
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I do not doubt your knowledge in the matter, I'm just simply trying to understand what effects the Infinity's will have on my stock Monsoon system. And what you stated was completely different from what was in the sticky, which is why I did the "double take", no disrespect intended. The sticky's are quite old so that's why I was asking the questions to begin with.
So if I'm understanding your explanation of the Camaro system correctly then, using the Infinity's is the way to go since all the Camaro speakers are run off the 2ohm Monsoon amp. Which makes the Alpine SPS-170A option that much more impracticable, why run a 4ohm speaker on a 2ohm system when there is a 2ohm speaker available that can be used without mod?
So if I'm understanding your explanation of the Camaro system correctly then, using the Infinity's is the way to go since all the Camaro speakers are run off the 2ohm Monsoon amp. Which makes the Alpine SPS-170A option that much more impracticable, why run a 4ohm speaker on a 2ohm system when there is a 2ohm speaker available that can be used without mod?
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Don't worry - no offense taken. It just reminded me that I really have to get to work on updating that information to avoid confusion.
Yes, the Infinity's are the best match to the amp but some people find them too bright so they are willing to give up some volume and use the Alpines. The Alpines are fairly efficient (certainly more so than the stock speakers) so the loss of output volume is really not that much. They are also relatively easy to modify for use as component elements to match the wiring in the car.
Yes, the Infinity's are the best match to the amp but some people find them too bright so they are willing to give up some volume and use the Alpines. The Alpines are fairly efficient (certainly more so than the stock speakers) so the loss of output volume is really not that much. They are also relatively easy to modify for use as component elements to match the wiring in the car.
This might be a little off topic and a stupid question. But do you modify the SPS17C2 the same way as you do on the SPS170A. As I understand it all you have to do is cut the wires coming from the tweeter were they meet the pos. & neg. connections on the speakers and them rewire them to the wires comming from the HU
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
No, it's not a problem because the head unit is 4-ohm stable (it isn't 2-ohm stable).
So um, when I want to wire in the Monsoon amp in my 93, can I PM the heck out of you?
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by DTB_LS1
This might be a little off topic and a stupid question. But do you modify the SPS17C2 the same way as you do on the SPS170A. As I understand it all you have to do is cut the wires coming from the tweeter were they meet the pos. & neg. connections on the speakers and them rewire them to the wires comming from the HU
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Formula350
But you said all but the tweeters were powered by the sub. The rear has 2 tweeters, as do the doors. Leaving just 6 channels for the amp. At any rate, I didn't disconnect the tweeter, so I have 4 tweeters in back with the Tweeter-"sub" coaxle in the spot of the 10ohm mid. Love how it sounds right now though. My friend listened to it quite a bit tonight and he said he really thought it sounded good, and that's with 2 speakers blown lol He's quite a nit-picker when it comes to sound too.
So um, when I want to wire in the Monsoon amp in my 93, can I PM the heck out of you?
So um, when I want to wire in the Monsoon amp in my 93, can I PM the heck out of you?
Why would you want to replace your existing amp with a "Monsoon" one? They're basically the same thing.
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
I've been working on a replacement for the Monsoon FAQ sticky because it has some inaccurate information and continues to fuel some of the myths about Monsoon systems. That quote from the speaker replacement thread is just plain wrong.
Mr 02SS0384
I just put the 62.7i's in my doors this past weekend and really like the result. It actually wasn't as hard as I was led to beleive - the hardest part was getting the door panels off then back on. I just took a soldering gun, heated the connections off the Monsoon speakers, making note which were the tweeter and mid wires, then resoldered them to the 62.7i's. Then you are able to keep the factory connector intact. A suggestion, though.....spin the tweeter to the 0 dcb, not the plus 3 side. It is very ''tweety' at the plus three side. I'm a little hard of hearing and thought I would need the plus 3, but I've already gone back into it and rotated them back to 0. Really like the result. Good luck to ya.....
I just put the 62.7i's in my doors this past weekend and really like the result. It actually wasn't as hard as I was led to beleive - the hardest part was getting the door panels off then back on. I just took a soldering gun, heated the connections off the Monsoon speakers, making note which were the tweeter and mid wires, then resoldered them to the 62.7i's. Then you are able to keep the factory connector intact. A suggestion, though.....spin the tweeter to the 0 dcb, not the plus 3 side. It is very ''tweety' at the plus three side. I'm a little hard of hearing and thought I would need the plus 3, but I've already gone back into it and rotated them back to 0. Really like the result. Good luck to ya.....
Originally Posted by cooter brown
Mr 02SS0384
I just put the 62.7i's in my doors this past weekend and really like the result. It actually wasn't as hard as I was led to beleive - the hardest part was getting the door panels off then back on. I just took a soldering gun, heated the connections off the Monsoon speakers, making note which were the tweeter and mid wires, then resoldered them to the 62.7i's. Then you are able to keep the factory connector intact. A suggestion, though.....spin the tweeter to the 0 dcb, not the plus 3 side. It is very ''tweety' at the plus three side. I'm a little hard of hearing and thought I would need the plus 3, but I've already gone back into it and rotated them back to 0. Really like the result. Good luck to ya.....
I just put the 62.7i's in my doors this past weekend and really like the result. It actually wasn't as hard as I was led to beleive - the hardest part was getting the door panels off then back on. I just took a soldering gun, heated the connections off the Monsoon speakers, making note which were the tweeter and mid wires, then resoldered them to the 62.7i's. Then you are able to keep the factory connector intact. A suggestion, though.....spin the tweeter to the 0 dcb, not the plus 3 side. It is very ''tweety' at the plus three side. I'm a little hard of hearing and thought I would need the plus 3, but I've already gone back into it and rotated them back to 0. Really like the result. Good luck to ya.....
got a pic of this soldering and wiring you did on the 62.7i peaker im fixin to get mine in i ordered a pair and want ot be sure i wire them up right for safety sake lol........
i trust pics !!! lol Sorry - but no pictures.
When you take the Monsoons out, look at the face of the speaker. There are 1 pair of wires on one side, and another pair of wires to the other side. Lookin at the face, you will see that the one pair go through the cone in order to connect to the tweeter. The other pair goes to the mid. What I did before disconnecting any wires, I took a piece of tape and marked it T and put it over the tweeter wires. Then i took another piece of tape, marked it M and put it over the other pair. Then I disconnected the factory connector, heated up the tabs where the wires connect until they came free. Repeat for the other side and your through disconnecting. You can't screw up the installation because the kappas have little 't' on the tweeter, and little 'm' on the mids marked with positive and negatives. (Black is negative) Resolder to your new speakers and your done....hope this helps.
When you take the Monsoons out, look at the face of the speaker. There are 1 pair of wires on one side, and another pair of wires to the other side. Lookin at the face, you will see that the one pair go through the cone in order to connect to the tweeter. The other pair goes to the mid. What I did before disconnecting any wires, I took a piece of tape and marked it T and put it over the tweeter wires. Then i took another piece of tape, marked it M and put it over the other pair. Then I disconnected the factory connector, heated up the tabs where the wires connect until they came free. Repeat for the other side and your through disconnecting. You can't screw up the installation because the kappas have little 't' on the tweeter, and little 'm' on the mids marked with positive and negatives. (Black is negative) Resolder to your new speakers and your done....hope this helps.