which way should i go?
01-07-2007, 10:59 AM
#21
Originally Posted by HiTechGent
To each, his own. I thought it made a definite improvement. 
01-07-2007, 11:58 AM
#22
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Well, the car is cleaned up now, and everything in the interior is back to where it should be. The speakers rattle some... but now I'm getting a little worried. I turned up the volume a little for the first time and the rattle is starting to sound like the other blown monsoon speakers... except these only do it when turned up. I went to the audio shop to see what they thought if it was junk behind the speakers or what but then this happened:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...60#post6191460
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...60#post6191460
I turn the key, car idles for a split second, then everything blacked out (no power). I was like, wtf? Of course, since I added an amp and stuff, I removed the amp fuse near the battery and tried again, nothing. I checked all the fuses, nothing. I unhooked the negative terminal on the battery, waited a minute, then reconnected. Then the engine cranked. However, it would just idle low then die. I cranked it again, same thing. Cranked it again, and this time I held it at 1500 rpm for a couple minutes, and when I left off, it idles about 500 out of gear. I limped it the 3 miles home keeping my foot always on the gas and in 2nd gear to keep the rpm up. Once I got home I let off the gas, and everything is back to normal? I turned the car off, then on. Normal. I replaced the amp fuse. Normal several times on and off with a couple minutes in between. I plugged in the OBD handheld, it reads normal. Battery while off and no surface charge reads healthy 12.65 volts. Battery charging reads 14.2 volts. Any ideas wtf happened?
It seemed like somethign shorted or maybe a bad relay got stuck... Then when I disconnected the battery, it unstuck and was fine again? What do you guys think?
It seemed like somethign shorted or maybe a bad relay got stuck... Then when I disconnected the battery, it unstuck and was fine again? What do you guys think?
01-07-2007, 12:14 PM
#23
Probably reset the ECU and it needed to run relearn procedures. Never heard of anything that severe, but if it's running fine now, I wouldn't worry.
New speakers shouldn't have any sort of rattle at all. Are you sure they're tightened down good, not hitting the door panel while playing, etc?
New speakers shouldn't have any sort of rattle at all. Are you sure they're tightened down good, not hitting the door panel while playing, etc?
01-07-2007, 12:20 PM
#24
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Yes, they're tightened down. I'm thinking that possibly the wires going behind the speaker to the terminals might be hitting the cone from behind, since I can hear the rattling from outside... I removed the speaker grilles to make sure it's not hitting it, but the rattle hasn't changed. I would be out there looking at it right now, but it's raining cats and dogs. I'd work on it indoors but the Nova is taking up the whole garage until I finish the paint project on that 
lol.
lol.
01-07-2007, 05:04 PM
#26
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well, got a bunch of stuff done. i replaced the original battery with one of the optimas out of the nova and no more problems. guess i just drained the other one, lol.
I also removed and reinstalled the speakers. What I think happened was the 14ga wires going behind the speaker had gotten pinched between the speaker and wall, and lifted the speaker off the wall enough to vibrate. It all sounds fine now. Except that since the subs work, I turned up the voloume and blew out the door speakers even worse, lol. Alpine SPS-14C2 here I come!
But one last question... I noted that the rear 4" speakers were riveted in. I didn't look at it closely, but how do I reattatch an aftermarket 4 inch in there? Also, I think I saw someone with a 4x6" back there but not sure how they did it. Might sound better if I got that oval since the matching Alpines for 4" and 4x6" are the same price anways... :shrug:
I also removed and reinstalled the speakers. What I think happened was the 14ga wires going behind the speaker had gotten pinched between the speaker and wall, and lifted the speaker off the wall enough to vibrate. It all sounds fine now. Except that since the subs work, I turned up the voloume and blew out the door speakers even worse, lol. Alpine SPS-14C2 here I come!
But one last question... I noted that the rear 4" speakers were riveted in. I didn't look at it closely, but how do I reattatch an aftermarket 4 inch in there? Also, I think I saw someone with a 4x6" back there but not sure how they did it. Might sound better if I got that oval since the matching Alpines for 4" and 4x6" are the same price anways... :shrug:
01-07-2007, 05:14 PM
#27
Originally Posted by burningsquirrels
well, got a bunch of stuff done. i replaced the original battery with one of the optimas out of the nova and no more problems. guess i just drained the other one, lol.
I also removed and reinstalled the speakers. What I think happened was the 14ga wires going behind the speaker had gotten pinched between the speaker and wall, and lifted the speaker off the wall enough to vibrate. It all sounds fine now. Except that since the subs work, I turned up the voloume and blew out the door speakers even worse, lol. Alpine SPS-14C2 here I come!
But one last question... I noted that the rear 4" speakers were riveted in. I didn't look at it closely, but how do I reattatch an aftermarket 4 inch in there? Also, I think I saw someone with a 4x6" back there but not sure how they did it. Might sound better if I got that oval since the matching Alpines for 4" and 4x6" are the same price anways... :shrug:
I also removed and reinstalled the speakers. What I think happened was the 14ga wires going behind the speaker had gotten pinched between the speaker and wall, and lifted the speaker off the wall enough to vibrate. It all sounds fine now. Except that since the subs work, I turned up the voloume and blew out the door speakers even worse, lol. Alpine SPS-14C2 here I come!
But one last question... I noted that the rear 4" speakers were riveted in. I didn't look at it closely, but how do I reattatch an aftermarket 4 inch in there? Also, I think I saw someone with a 4x6" back there but not sure how they did it. Might sound better if I got that oval since the matching Alpines for 4" and 4x6" are the same price anways... :shrug:
As far as mounting the speakers in there, most speakers come with the little metal clips that go over a sheet metal lip, when it's not thick enough for screws to tighten on. They're the little retaining clips that you see almost everywhere in cars. You can just put the replacement speaker in the hole, mark the screw locations with a marker, then drill holes slightly smaller than the provided screws, slip the retaining clips over the holes, and screw the speaker down.
01-07-2007, 06:13 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by burningsquirrels
But one last question... I noted that the rear 4" speakers were riveted in. I didn't look at it closely, but how do I reattatch an aftermarket 4 inch in there? Also, I think I saw someone with a 4x6" back there but not sure how they did it. Might sound better if I got that oval since the matching Alpines for 4" and 4x6" are the same price anways... :shrug:
01-08-2007, 07:02 PM
#29
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Just to be sure I've got the right idea before I order these..... On the backs of those Alpines, I'm going to cut the wires that run along the back of the speaker, and connect the tweeter wires from the harness to it, correct? Do I splice the tweeter wires in before or after the capacitor?
01-08-2007, 07:12 PM
#30
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Also, it's a little more money, but what about the Alpine SPR-17LS? It's not that much more than the SPS-17C2 speakers, and at least it's already a seperate hookup for the tweeter and woofer...
01-08-2007, 07:14 PM
#31
Originally Posted by burningsquirrels
Also, it's a little more money, but what about the Alpine SPR-17LS? It's not that much more than the SPS-17C2 speakers, and at least it's already a seperate hookup for the tweeter and woofer...
01-08-2007, 07:15 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by burningsquirrels
Just to be sure I've got the right idea before I order these..... On the backs of those Alpines, I'm going to cut the wires that run along the back of the speaker, and connect the tweeter wires from the harness to it, correct? Do I splice the tweeter wires in before or after the capacitor?
Here's details on how I did it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/397043-highly-detailed-instructions-sps-170as-camaro.html
01-08-2007, 07:16 PM
#33
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Yeah, that's what I figured. I also saw the higher power rating and think that these would be better if I ever upgraded my audio setup too. I think $125 shipped is a fair price...
01-08-2007, 07:23 PM
#34
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Not a terrible price. But you should probably shop a bit more next time:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/p__Alpin...ype=bottomline
http://www.pricegrabber.com/p__Alpin...ype=bottomline
01-08-2007, 07:30 PM
#36
Originally Posted by HiTechGent
Not a terrible price. But you should probably shop a bit more next time:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/p__Alpin...ype=bottomline
http://www.pricegrabber.com/p__Alpin...ype=bottomline
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=alpspr17ls
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2828
01-09-2007, 08:16 AM
#37
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With the type-r speakers, can those tweeters be mounted coaxially so I don't have to punch a hole in the door panel?
EDIT: The alpine SPR-17LP appears to be the same thing, just coaxial and not component... this may be a better option since it's cheaper... what do you think?
EDIT: The alpine SPR-17LP appears to be the same thing, just coaxial and not component... this may be a better option since it's cheaper... what do you think?
Last edited by burningsquirrels; 01-09-2007 at 08:26 AM.
01-13-2007, 07:58 AM
#40
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http://fbodyaudio.com/articleviewer....4thgenfaq.tech
^^^ i am following this to remove the door panels. i'm a little iffy about how to remove the door lock indicator. it seems like it will pop out by applying pressure in the unlock direction, is that correct? just keep pushing it towards the front of the car? or does it pop off some other way?
^^^ i am following this to remove the door panels. i'm a little iffy about how to remove the door lock indicator. it seems like it will pop out by applying pressure in the unlock direction, is that correct? just keep pushing it towards the front of the car? or does it pop off some other way?