Wiring sail panel question
12-29-2006, 03:54 PM
#1
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Wiring sail panel question Okay, I need a bit of help. I've managed to read everything and confuse myself about how to properly wire the sail panel speakers off a Monsoon T/A system...
I'm taking the rear speaker wires and using them to wire a 6x9 in the sail panels. However, I have four wires from the back to work with and only two attach points on the 6x9. So, do I just match pos to pos and neg to neg and then attach to the new speaker? And what colors are the negatives and positives coming from the back? I think I have brown, red, green, and blue (maybe?).
I'm so confused.
I suck, I know.
I'm taking the rear speaker wires and using them to wire a 6x9 in the sail panels. However, I have four wires from the back to work with and only two attach points on the 6x9. So, do I just match pos to pos and neg to neg and then attach to the new speaker? And what colors are the negatives and positives coming from the back? I think I have brown, red, green, and blue (maybe?).
I'm so confused.
I suck, I know.
12-29-2006, 04:16 PM
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I'm curious to know how you're going to fit 6x9 speakers in the sail panels. Unless you're actually talking about replacing your rear hatch area speakers (2" tweeter & 4" midrange). Or are you planing on doing some metal cutting?
As for wiring, there should be a link in the sticky's that shows you a wiring diagram for the T/A Monsoon system.
As for wiring, there should be a link in the sticky's that shows you a wiring diagram for the T/A Monsoon system.
12-29-2006, 04:37 PM
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We are talking about the speakers next to the back seat? Those are 6.5" round speakers. The mounting hole in the b-pillar could never fit a 6x9 speaker without cutting.
12-29-2006, 04:52 PM
#5
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Yes, the sail panel is what we're talking about. The base/magnet of the 6x9 fits nicely in where the 6.5 sub used to be. Yes, there will be a slight amount of modification in terms of mounting, but it's looking minimal.
Anyway, I still need to wire them properly.
Anyway, I still need to wire them properly.
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12-29-2006, 08:40 PM
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Why would you put 6x9's in there when the existing hole already perfectly fits a 6.5"?? that's just nonsense. Unless you do something with the monsoon amp those speakers are only going to give you a low rear fill bass anyways.
but insanity aside, for the wiring in the back you should have a white + and grey - on the rear right side and a purple - and red + on the left side
but insanity aside, for the wiring in the back you should have a white + and grey - on the rear right side and a purple - and red + on the left side
12-29-2006, 09:17 PM
#9
An oval speaker will never sound as good as the equivalent round speaker so the 6x9 is a poor choice as a replacement for a 6.5S round speaker - especially since there are so many good 6.5" speakers available. It's your car but unless you can't afford anything else the only reason to use 6x9 is if you have them left over from the 70s or 80s when they were quite popular.
jlarsen gave you the correct wire colors for the hatch mids that you would pull forward to the sail panels to get full range signal.
jlarsen gave you the correct wire colors for the hatch mids that you would pull forward to the sail panels to get full range signal.
12-30-2006, 03:17 PM
#11
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Update time...I took back the 6x9's and got a decent pair of 6.5s for the sail panels. I wired the driver side in - sounds great. I wire in the passenger side and nothing out of either speaker now. I tried the 9V battery test and the passenger side speaker is just fine. I unwired the passenger side, and now I get nothing through the driver's side either. I rechecked the wiring based on the post above (gray and white on passenger side), and everything seems to be okay. So what could be causing the speakers to have no sound?
12-30-2006, 05:53 PM
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The wiring I listed above was for if you pulled the wiring from the hatch speakers to the back seats (sail panel) to get a full-range signal, is that what you did? I assume since you said you had gray and white on passenger side.
If you don't want to pull the wires forward, you can wire right up to the existing wires that were on the stock sub woofers (tan - and red + on right, white - and tan+ on left) which would give you a low-range signal.
The other 2 wires that you see going to the sail panel are marked as:
LIGHT GREEN w/BLACK - left rear subwoofer speaker negative
DARK BLUE w/WHITE - left rear subwoofer speaker positive
FLIGHT BLUE w/BLACK - right rear subwoofer speaker negative
DARK GREEN - right rear subwoofer speaker positive
I'd assume you'd be able to wire into those also, but I have never touched them, hopefully whitebird00 will be able to explain those.
If you don't want to pull the wires forward, you can wire right up to the existing wires that were on the stock sub woofers (tan - and red + on right, white - and tan+ on left) which would give you a low-range signal.
The other 2 wires that you see going to the sail panel are marked as:
LIGHT GREEN w/BLACK - left rear subwoofer speaker negative
DARK BLUE w/WHITE - left rear subwoofer speaker positive
FLIGHT BLUE w/BLACK - right rear subwoofer speaker negative
DARK GREEN - right rear subwoofer speaker positive
I'd assume you'd be able to wire into those also, but I have never touched them, hopefully whitebird00 will be able to explain those.
12-30-2006, 07:17 PM
#13
I highly suggest pulling the wires from the hatch speakers back to the sail panel location. DO NOT use the sail panel wires as they only get bass and 6.5 full range speakers don't do bass very well. Hell, the 6.5 dediacted subs don't do very well with bass and that is all they do. The hatch wire on the driver side will pull back easily as long as you don't have the factory CD changer (Pull the whole harness back including the changer lead) but to pull back the passenger side you'll need to extend the wire a bit. I would cut the connector off one of the hatch speakers and use that to extend the wire. This way you don't need to cut the factory wiring.
12-30-2006, 08:01 PM
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I pulled the wires from the back speakers, as I want the full range signal. So that's where my confusion starts after wiring them. So after the purple and red combo on the driver's side worked, I'm at a total loss as to why the gray and white wouldn't work. It seems odd that the driver's side worked, but as soon as I wired the gray and white neither worked, even after disconnecting the passenger side.
On the passenger side I cut the gray and white just before the old plug, then wired two extensions so that they would reach the sail panel. Since the speaker passed the 9V test, I can only assume that the problem lies with the wiring. But why would both speakers suddenly not work?
On the passenger side I cut the gray and white just before the old plug, then wired two extensions so that they would reach the sail panel. Since the speaker passed the 9V test, I can only assume that the problem lies with the wiring. But why would both speakers suddenly not work?
12-31-2006, 01:58 PM
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Sunday update:
I tried getting a signal out of the wires, and therein lies the problem. I don't seem to have ANY signal on either sets of wires. Does the Monsoon amp have a fuse or circuit breaker that shuts down channels? Could I just bypass the amp entirely, since the HU has an internal amp?
I tried getting a signal out of the wires, and therein lies the problem. I don't seem to have ANY signal on either sets of wires. Does the Monsoon amp have a fuse or circuit breaker that shuts down channels? Could I just bypass the amp entirely, since the HU has an internal amp?
12-31-2006, 03:06 PM
#18
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yes you definitely can just bypass the amp, only takes about an hour. here's a link to the page that tells you what needs to be wired to what https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...8&page=1&pp=20
that guide is already set up to use the hatch wires that you pulled forward to the sail panel. let us know how it goes
that guide is already set up to use the hatch wires that you pulled forward to the sail panel. let us know how it goes
01-01-2007, 01:07 PM
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Okay, here's what I've butchered so far today and the results...
I connected the wires as noted in wiring guide (E4 -> F14, etc.) Everything is in place and wired correctly. However, when I powered on the system I lost power to the HU. I can only imagine that this is because I've bypassed the amp. Thus, do I need to wire in a line (input) into the amp as well from the input wire?
I connected the wires as noted in wiring guide (E4 -> F14, etc.) Everything is in place and wired correctly. However, when I powered on the system I lost power to the HU. I can only imagine that this is because I've bypassed the amp. Thus, do I need to wire in a line (input) into the amp as well from the input wire?
01-01-2007, 05:04 PM
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After re-reading the link above, the one thought that occurs to me involves the left over wires still connected to the plug in the amp. Would those need to be removed from the plug?