High Output Alternator
Originally Posted by spy2520
i tested my charging system at work, sure enough its at 12.5v running with no accessories on. no high current drain, battery surprisingly is still fine even though i had to jump the car a week ago...
For testing batteries, the dealer uses a computerized load tester. You program the battery size and it will apply a small load, measure how far the voltage drops, then what the voltage goes back up to over a set time (1 minute maybe?) then it does a second, bigger load test for a longer time plus the rest I mentioned. Then it will determine if the battery is bad, almost bad or fine.
It also has a clamp on ammeter to see what amperage the alt. is putting out. My stock LS1 alt. is a 102A unit and it was puting out 91 or so amps under load and high rpms.
Originally Posted by JasonWW
I have a 6 spd car but I don't remember what the idle speed is, but I know that it can be increased simply through the computer. So if I need to set it at 800 or 900, I could. I could probably set it on the butterfly as well as I remember a set screw there.
Originally Posted by JasonWW
12.5 running isn't that good. A fully charged battery should be 12.6v, but 12.5 would be fine as well. When the car is running it should start out at 14.6 or so to start recharging the battery and then drop down to say 13.6 or so. So it doesn't sound as if your alt is putting out the right voltage.
For testing batteries, the dealer uses a computerized load tester. You program the battery size and it will apply a small load, measure how far the voltage drops, then what the voltage goes back up to over a set time (1 minute maybe?) then it does a second, bigger load test for a longer time plus the rest I mentioned. Then it will determine if the battery is bad, almost bad or fine.
It also has a clamp on ammeter to see what amperage the alt. is putting out. My stock LS1 alt. is a 102A unit and it was puting out 91 or so amps under load and high rpms.
For testing batteries, the dealer uses a computerized load tester. You program the battery size and it will apply a small load, measure how far the voltage drops, then what the voltage goes back up to over a set time (1 minute maybe?) then it does a second, bigger load test for a longer time plus the rest I mentioned. Then it will determine if the battery is bad, almost bad or fine.
It also has a clamp on ammeter to see what amperage the alt. is putting out. My stock LS1 alt. is a 102A unit and it was puting out 91 or so amps under load and high rpms.
Originally Posted by spy2520
so will the 235A truck alt at 4alterstart.com work?
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Verdad Gallardo for some reason i cant find an ls1 alternator other than the stock one on their site, i figured the truck ones being genIII/IV would be the same alt. can anybody clarify or link me to the ls1 alt.?
ok got the new alternator in, its a 235A from alterstart. i noticed on the old alternator the wire was pretty burnt up and the plastic part of the alternator looked like was melting at some point. i'm surprised any current managed to pass through the wire, it was all 4ga already though...
well when the car starts up cold it sits at around 15.5 volts, i checked it at work with our tester, and believe me the headlights and **** seem real bright. eventually it rests at ~14.3. but no dimming or anything now, the voltage still jumps around according to the capacitor, not too accurate, and the gauge in the cluster doesnt move at all now, not so accurate either, i'd say this thing is doing its job.
and at 15 volts the system is extremely loud, makes me wonder if this 400w RMS amp i have is only putting out that much since it is using a 60A fuse and gets louder the more volts i give it, with no distortion that i can hear i might add...
oh and the papers with all the test data that came with the alt state that it hits 250A @ 14.4 volts at 7000 rotor rpms, or ~2333 engine rpms if you have stock pullies...max wattage is 3382, and at idle it should really be putting out around 140-150A
and at 15 volts the system is extremely loud, makes me wonder if this 400w RMS amp i have is only putting out that much since it is using a 60A fuse and gets louder the more volts i give it, with no distortion that i can hear i might add...
oh and the papers with all the test data that came with the alt state that it hits 250A @ 14.4 volts at 7000 rotor rpms, or ~2333 engine rpms if you have stock pullies...max wattage is 3382, and at idle it should really be putting out around 140-150A
Last edited by spy2520; Feb 4, 2007 at 07:07 PM.
Originally Posted by wickedwarlock
try 4alterstart.com
2 year warranty and their packaging is great.
personally, spec wise, slightly better than the competition and a much better warranty.
2 year warranty and their packaging is great.
personally, spec wise, slightly better than the competition and a much better warranty.
Cliff notes of long story :
- called to get advise on HA alt for ATI procharged TransAm
- was assured the $299 200a would fit, 'sold hundreds of em'
- several installs/reinstalls, I discover B4C alt housing is too big and causes interference with ATI blower pully
- call and argue with them, they finally say they will exchange it for a stock housing 160a and are reluctant even though I point out the stock size 160a it's being exchanged for is much cheaper
-I ship it back to exchange the one that they assured me would fit for a cheaper 160a stock housing alt
- they charge me $60 because the returned unit was supposedly "damaged in shipping", and they charge me shipping costs for both returning the old alt and sending out the new one (which I expected)
- the new one arrives with a note that says "warranty void" with their ironically useless printed test results - I find out this one fits great but is a piece of **** and chronically drops voltage at idle/caused check gauges lights on the dash/dimming lights, ironic since good idle charge is the reason I bought the f*&king thing in the first place.
- bought $99 new 102amp GM alt and install, problem solved.
I still have their $400+ POS sitting in the floor of my garage.
Buyer beware, if you go there hopefully you have better luck than I did.
Rob (Bad30th)
Originally Posted by Bad30th
- several installs/reinstalls, I discover B4C alt housing is too big and causes interference with ATI blower pully
The B4C was the LT1 alternator which is totally different.
Originally Posted by JasonWW
I thought they used the stock sized CS-130D housing.
The B4C was the LT1 alternator which is totally different.
The B4C was the LT1 alternator which is totally different.
The new one they sent, although it didn't hold voltage after 5 min of driving, was the stock size housing and fit fine.
Rob (Bad30th)