View Poll Results: I have/had... (note: choose two if you have used both stock/aftermarket amps on them)
EU-700s in the rear sails powered by the stock amp and am/was pleased with the results.
4
13.79%
EU-700s in the rear sails powered by stock amp and am/was NOT pleased with the results.
3
10.34%
EU-700s in the rear sails powered by an aftermarket amp and am/was pleased with the results.
2
6.90%
EU-700s in the rear sails powered by aftermarket amp and am/was NOT pleased with the results.
1
3.45%
been considering this upgrade.
24
82.76%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll
INSTALL GUIDE (w/ pics): upgrading factory Monsoon subs with 6.5" ones (ED eu700s)
01-24-2007, 11:14 AM
#42
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That Audiobahn is not a good choice for a sub replacement, its low freq responce is definitely not what you want for that application.
>>>>>>
Aren't these the speakers in our cars the ones that provide the lower bass freqs for audio?
Why is "that" low freq response not what I would want for "this" application?
Aren't we trying to go low here, ( I'm not looking for something like a Planet Audio "Big Bang" or anything that loud, even though I would love to place a 10 in the back and strap my old HiFonics Zeus to it 800 watts mono 4 ohm load and crank the gain to max with my Audio Control EQX in the mix cutting it around 60 HZ
).
Anyway, I doubt I would want the Audiobauh just based on it being only 3 ohms and not 2 the amp would like to see for forceing it to push more power to the speaker. Even though I understand a speaker that has a higher SPL would require less wattage to be louder.
I knew this wasn't going to be all that easy with this dang car, "just replacing two speakers".
>>>>>>
Aren't these the speakers in our cars the ones that provide the lower bass freqs for audio?
Why is "that" low freq response not what I would want for "this" application?
Aren't we trying to go low here, ( I'm not looking for something like a Planet Audio "Big Bang" or anything that loud, even though I would love to place a 10 in the back and strap my old HiFonics Zeus to it 800 watts mono 4 ohm load and crank the gain to max with my Audio Control EQX in the mix cutting it around 60 HZ
).Anyway, I doubt I would want the Audiobauh just based on it being only 3 ohms and not 2 the amp would like to see for forceing it to push more power to the speaker. Even though I understand a speaker that has a higher SPL would require less wattage to be louder.
I knew this wasn't going to be all that easy with this dang car, "just replacing two speakers".
01-24-2007, 11:25 AM
#43
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Originally Posted by JR HAWK 9
Audiobahn = eye candy that just happens to reproduce sound, well, kind of 
01-24-2007, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by B T
Why is "that" low freq response not what I would want for "this" application?
Aren't we trying to go low here, ( I'm not looking for something like a Planet Audio "Big Bang" or anything that loud, even though I would love to place a 10 in the back and strap my old HiFonics Zeus to it 800 watts mono 4 ohm load and crank the gain to max with my Audio Control EQX in the mix cutting it around 60 HZ ).
Anyway, I doubt I would want the Audiobauh just based on it being only 3 ohms and not 2 the amp would like to see for forceing it to push more power to the speaker. Even though I understand a speaker that has a higher SPL would require less wattage to be louder.
I knew this wasn't going to be all that easy with this dang car, "just replacing two speakers".
Aren't we trying to go low here, ( I'm not looking for something like a Planet Audio "Big Bang" or anything that loud, even though I would love to place a 10 in the back and strap my old HiFonics Zeus to it 800 watts mono 4 ohm load and crank the gain to max with my Audio Control EQX in the mix cutting it around 60 HZ
).Anyway, I doubt I would want the Audiobauh just based on it being only 3 ohms and not 2 the amp would like to see for forceing it to push more power to the speaker. Even though I understand a speaker that has a higher SPL would require less wattage to be louder.
I knew this wasn't going to be all that easy with this dang car, "just replacing two speakers".
Also, your amp would much rather see a 3 or 4ohm load over a 2 ohm load as it is easier to drive a higher impedence load. You want to extract more power so you can boom louder. But, a 2ohm driver will not necessarily be any louder than a 4 or 8 ohm driver with less power. that is where the sensitivity numbers are handy if you really understand what they are telling you. What the sensitivity dosen't tell you is how well a driver will produce bass. the "frequency range" is an indicator but will be heavily dependant on the application.
So you see, nothing is ever easy.
01-24-2007, 01:44 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by TA guy
I entered the T/S parameters into a speaker modeling program and looked at the sealed responce in both an optimum sealed and an infinite baffle alignment, just to get a feel for how the woofer would perform over a wide range. What I saw was that this driver does not do well at producing bass at any point in that range. However, It does model fairly well in a vented alignment, but that doesn't help you, so in summary "that" low freq response is not what you would want for "this" application.
Also, your amp would much rather see a 3 or 4ohm load over a 2 ohm load as it is easier to drive a higher impedence load. You want to extract more power so you can boom louder. But, a 2ohm driver will not necessarily be any louder than a 4 or 8 ohm driver with less power. that is where the sensitivity numbers are handy if you really understand what they are telling you. What the sensitivity dosen't tell you is how well a driver will produce bass. the "frequency range" is an indicator but will be heavily dependant on the application.
So you see, nothing is ever easy.
Also, your amp would much rather see a 3 or 4ohm load over a 2 ohm load as it is easier to drive a higher impedence load. You want to extract more power so you can boom louder. But, a 2ohm driver will not necessarily be any louder than a 4 or 8 ohm driver with less power. that is where the sensitivity numbers are handy if you really understand what they are telling you. What the sensitivity dosen't tell you is how well a driver will produce bass. the "frequency range" is an indicator but will be heavily dependant on the application.
So you see, nothing is ever easy.
However, It does model fairly well in a vented alignment, but that doesn't help you, so in summary "that" low freq response is not what you would want for "this" application.
>>>>
I see now, thank you for explaining how you came to that conclusion.
I was wondering how you were coming up with "that it's not what I need for this application."
Seeing how your using a modeling program, would it be possible you could take the time and compare the Elemental and the Audiopipe to see if the price difference would be justified or which one would be better for this application?
If not and your too busy I would understand.
Also, if GM designed the factory amp to use a 2 ohm speaker and not a 4 or 8 ohm with better sensitivity do you think it's just about money they wanted to spend on the system or do you think that GM just wanted to make an odd ball speaker so that it would be hard to find a good 2 ohm replacement speaker and force us to go back to GM for another cruddy speaker that won't last. ( so GM can make more money, much like the always failing 4l60-E transmission in these cars.) I'm on my third trans with less than 40K on the clock.
and I baby it alot. 
If you had two identical speakers with the only difference in specs was one was 4 ohms and the other 8 ohms and everything else be equal, wouldn't the 4 ohm speaker drive the amp harder than the 8 ohm and therfore the 4 ohm would be able to hit a higher db?
So how would this play out with the factory amp that was designed to use 2 ohm speakers?
Thanks.
01-24-2007, 04:12 PM
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Unfortunately, I did not see any t/s specs for the audiopipe drivers so I can't model it.
As to the 2ohm factory speakers (note I am not an automotive engineer) the short answer is that it is cheaper. Now the long answer: Manufacturers want to build the cheapest amps possible, and it is much cheaper to build an amp that does not need a switching power supply. Which means that the rail voltage in the amp will be limited to ~12V. Looking to physics:
P=I*V and V=I*R
P=power
I=current
V=voltage
R=resistance
The electrical system of a car is ~12v. So we can derive that P=V^2/R, so you can see that if V is limited the only way to increase P is by reducing R. Now by using a dual 2ohm VC sub, GM can provide twice that power by bridging two of these cheap amps. Apparently this was still cheaper than using a single VC sub with a switching power supply amp.
As to your next question
"If you had two identical speakers with the only difference in specs was one was 4 ohms and the other 8 ohms and everything else be equal, wouldn't the 4 ohm speaker drive the amp harder than the 8 ohm and therfore the 4 ohm would be able to hit a higher db?
So how would this play out with the factory amp that was designed to use 2 ohm speakers?"
you cannot keep all else equal, by going to 8 ohms a number of things will change, but I know what you are asking. In a nutshell, theoretically, efficiency should go up as impedance increases, so you will see the same SPL from the 4 ohm driver at 200 watts as from the 8 ohm driver at 100watts. Based on the following formula.
Efficiency=(B^2*L^2)/(R*Sd^2*Mms^2)
B=magnetic field strength
L=length of wire
R=resistance
Sd=surface area
Mms = mass
Also note that when SPL is given as:
2.83Vrms@1M
2.83Vrms=1watt @ 8ohms=2watts @ 4 ohms
Now seriously, go to the site I linked to earlier and start to educate yourself. Chicks dig it
As to the 2ohm factory speakers (note I am not an automotive engineer) the short answer is that it is cheaper. Now the long answer: Manufacturers want to build the cheapest amps possible, and it is much cheaper to build an amp that does not need a switching power supply. Which means that the rail voltage in the amp will be limited to ~12V. Looking to physics:
P=I*V and V=I*R
P=power
I=current
V=voltage
R=resistance
The electrical system of a car is ~12v. So we can derive that P=V^2/R, so you can see that if V is limited the only way to increase P is by reducing R. Now by using a dual 2ohm VC sub, GM can provide twice that power by bridging two of these cheap amps. Apparently this was still cheaper than using a single VC sub with a switching power supply amp.
As to your next question
"If you had two identical speakers with the only difference in specs was one was 4 ohms and the other 8 ohms and everything else be equal, wouldn't the 4 ohm speaker drive the amp harder than the 8 ohm and therfore the 4 ohm would be able to hit a higher db?
So how would this play out with the factory amp that was designed to use 2 ohm speakers?"
you cannot keep all else equal, by going to 8 ohms a number of things will change, but I know what you are asking. In a nutshell, theoretically, efficiency should go up as impedance increases, so you will see the same SPL from the 4 ohm driver at 200 watts as from the 8 ohm driver at 100watts. Based on the following formula.
Efficiency=(B^2*L^2)/(R*Sd^2*Mms^2)
B=magnetic field strength
L=length of wire
R=resistance
Sd=surface area
Mms = mass
Also note that when SPL is given as:
2.83Vrms@1M
2.83Vrms=1watt @ 8ohms=2watts @ 4 ohms
Now seriously, go to the site I linked to earlier and start to educate yourself. Chicks dig it
01-24-2007, 04:29 PM
#47
Very nice response.
The Camaro has SVC 2-ohm subs and the Firebird has DVC 4-ohm subs. Contrary to common belief, the Firebird voice coils are not wired in parallel to produce a net 2-ohm load - the dual voice coils are powered by separate channels of the amp.
Put another way, connecting an otherwise identical 4-ohm speaker in place of an original 2-ohm will cut the power approximately in half. Cutting the power in half does not result in half the volume - it actually results in a 3dB drop in volume. It takes 6dB to 10dB for the human ear to perceive half (or double) the volume. Also, efficiency is not a linear value so a relatively small increase in efficiency can easily make up the 3dB difference in volume.
You can always install a speaker of higher impedance than the original because it reduces current (and therefore heat) in the amp. Never install speakers with lower impedance unless you are sure the amp is stable at the new impedance. Otherwise, the increase in current flow will most likely damage the amp's output stage.
Originally Posted by TA guy
Now by using a dual 2ohm VC sub, GM can provide twice that power by bridging two of these cheap amps. Apparently this was still cheaper than using a single VC sub with a switching power supply amp.
Originally Posted by TA guy
As to your next question
"If you had two identical speakers with the only difference in specs was one was 4 ohms and the other 8 ohms and everything else be equal, wouldn't the 4 ohm speaker drive the amp harder than the 8 ohm and therfore the 4 ohm would be able to hit a higher db?
So how would this play out with the factory amp that was designed to use 2 ohm speakers?"
you cannot keep all else equal, by going to 8 ohms a number of things will change, but I know what you are asking. In a nutshell, theoretically, efficiency should go up as impedance increases, so you will see the same SPL from the 4 ohm driver at 200 watts as from the 8 ohm driver at 100watts. Based on the following formula.
Efficiency=(B^2*L^2)/(R*Sd^2*Mms^2)
B=magnetic field strength
L=length of wire
R=resistance
Sd=surface area
Mms = mass
Also note that when SPL is given as:
2.83Vrms@1M
2.83Vrms=1watt @ 8ohms=2watts @ 4 ohms
"If you had two identical speakers with the only difference in specs was one was 4 ohms and the other 8 ohms and everything else be equal, wouldn't the 4 ohm speaker drive the amp harder than the 8 ohm and therfore the 4 ohm would be able to hit a higher db?
So how would this play out with the factory amp that was designed to use 2 ohm speakers?"
you cannot keep all else equal, by going to 8 ohms a number of things will change, but I know what you are asking. In a nutshell, theoretically, efficiency should go up as impedance increases, so you will see the same SPL from the 4 ohm driver at 200 watts as from the 8 ohm driver at 100watts. Based on the following formula.
Efficiency=(B^2*L^2)/(R*Sd^2*Mms^2)
B=magnetic field strength
L=length of wire
R=resistance
Sd=surface area
Mms = mass
Also note that when SPL is given as:
2.83Vrms@1M
2.83Vrms=1watt @ 8ohms=2watts @ 4 ohms
You can always install a speaker of higher impedance than the original because it reduces current (and therefore heat) in the amp. Never install speakers with lower impedance unless you are sure the amp is stable at the new impedance. Otherwise, the increase in current flow will most likely damage the amp's output stage.
01-24-2007, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Put another way, connecting an otherwise identical 4-ohm speaker in place of an original 2-ohm will cut the power approximately in half. Cutting the power in half does not result in half the volume - it actually results in a 3dB drop in volume. It takes 6dB to 10dB for the human ear to perceive half (or double) the volume. Also, efficiency is not a linear value so a relatively small increase in efficiency can easily make up the 3dB difference in volume.
---
Thanks WhiteBird00, TA guy, and everyone else so far that has contributed to this thread in clearing questions, concerns, etc (as well as those of you who have asked questions)!!! Last edited by fredmr39; 02-08-2007 at 02:42 AM.
01-24-2007, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Very nice response.
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Put another way, connecting an otherwise identical 4-ohm speaker in place of an original 2-ohm will cut the power approximately in half. Cutting the power in half does not result in half the volume - it actually results in a 3dB drop in volume. It takes 6dB to 10dB for the human ear to perceive half (or double) the volume. Also, efficiency is not a linear value so a relatively small increase in efficiency can easily make up the 3dB difference in volume.
01-24-2007, 09:09 PM
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Now seriously, go to the site I linked to earlier and start to educate yourself. Chicks dig it
>>>>>
That was really good, I like that!
Thank you for checking on the model and for the info.
What I was trying to convey is that you don't necessarily lose any SPL by using a higher impedance driver, even though you are delivering less power to the driver. Worst case, as whitebird00 said, any SPL loss you may have due to the impedance change will be negligable.
>>>>
I hear what your saying about it being negligable in a math setting.
Final question though, ( crowd boos lol )
I had my Zeus hooked up to 4 15's in an Rx-7, ( many years ago ) I hooked up all 4 C-15's 4 ohm in parrallel, I think the guy at HiFonics ( after I fried the amp over time (( it was so hot you couldn't even touch it! ) said I was probably gicing the amp a 1/4 ohm load.)
It ROCKED very hard untill the amp would shut down after 30 minutes or so... thermal protection until I finnaly cooked it and had to send it in for repair to get it fixed.
The guys were nice enough to send me a wireing diagram to set it up for a 4 ohm load after I burned it up. ( series back to parallel )
It sounded good and would run cooler but it didn't have the authority if you will as it did when in 1/4 ohm all parallel.
I tried all 4 in series to ( test a theory ) and it was weak and muddy with no authority at all. (sucked actually). I thought it was pretty weak for 4 15's.
So my final question for anyone would be, if "ohmage" doesn't really matter and speakers are more effiecent with a higher ohm load, WTF happend with my setup.
Any takers?
I'll sit back and let the sparks fly, ( jumping into flame retardent suit )
Thanks again guys, TAguy, Fred, and whitebird!
Very nice info. guys, thanks!
BT
>>>>>
That was really good, I like that!
Thank you for checking on the model and for the info.
What I was trying to convey is that you don't necessarily lose any SPL by using a higher impedance driver, even though you are delivering less power to the driver. Worst case, as whitebird00 said, any SPL loss you may have due to the impedance change will be negligable.
>>>>
I hear what your saying about it being negligable in a math setting.
Final question though, ( crowd boos lol )
I had my Zeus hooked up to 4 15's in an Rx-7, ( many years ago ) I hooked up all 4 C-15's 4 ohm in parrallel, I think the guy at HiFonics ( after I fried the amp over time (( it was so hot you couldn't even touch it! ) said I was probably gicing the amp a 1/4 ohm load.)
It ROCKED very hard untill the amp would shut down after 30 minutes or so... thermal protection until I finnaly cooked it and had to send it in for repair to get it fixed.
The guys were nice enough to send me a wireing diagram to set it up for a 4 ohm load after I burned it up. ( series back to parallel )
It sounded good and would run cooler but it didn't have the authority if you will as it did when in 1/4 ohm all parallel.
I tried all 4 in series to ( test a theory ) and it was weak and muddy with no authority at all. (sucked actually). I thought it was pretty weak for 4 15's.
So my final question for anyone would be, if "ohmage" doesn't really matter and speakers are more effiecent with a higher ohm load, WTF happend with my setup.
Any takers?
I'll sit back and let the sparks fly, ( jumping into flame retardent suit )
Thanks again guys, TAguy, Fred, and whitebird!
Very nice info. guys, thanks!
BT
01-24-2007, 09:21 PM
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I was just on my way out so I don't know anything about the models/setup you used... but it sounds like you were trying to drive 4 subs off a single amp. Was that amp stable down at 1 ohm? If you have them all wired in parallel, total impedance would be (.25+.25+.25+.25)^(-1) => 1 Ohm
In series if would be 4+4+4+4 = 16 ohms.....
Those results should kinda explain themselves if I understand the setup correctly.
Your amp just wasn't able to meet the requirements of your setup and it was not stable/ designed to operate at 1 ohm (or whatever impedance)...
Did he say something like "it's not stable at x ohms"?? Did you know how many ohms you were running the setup at and what your amp was stable at?
--
EDIT: I assumed SVC subs for impedance calculations because I am unfamiliar with the model you are talking about....if they were DVC 4 ohm and voice coils themselves were wired in parallel, then impedance would be 1/2 ohms.... if they were DVC 2 ohm per VC w/ VCs wired in parallel and subs wired in parallel, THEN you would have a impedance of 1/4 ohm. Not sure how that guy figured a 1/4 ohm impedance (assuming he was talking about nominal)...
In series if would be 4+4+4+4 = 16 ohms.....
Those results should kinda explain themselves if I understand the setup correctly.
Your amp just wasn't able to meet the requirements of your setup and it was not stable/ designed to operate at 1 ohm (or whatever impedance)...
Did he say something like "it's not stable at x ohms"?? Did you know how many ohms you were running the setup at and what your amp was stable at?
--
EDIT: I assumed SVC subs for impedance calculations because I am unfamiliar with the model you are talking about....if they were DVC 4 ohm and voice coils themselves were wired in parallel, then impedance would be 1/2 ohms.... if they were DVC 2 ohm per VC w/ VCs wired in parallel and subs wired in parallel, THEN you would have a impedance of 1/4 ohm. Not sure how that guy figured a 1/4 ohm impedance (assuming he was talking about nominal)...
Last edited by fredmr39; 01-24-2007 at 09:32 PM.
01-24-2007, 09:28 PM
#52
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[QUOTE=fredmr39]I was just on my way out so I don't know anything about the models/setup you used... but it sounds like you were trying to drive 4 subs off a single amp. Was that amp stable down at 1 ohm? If you have them all wired in parallel, total impedance would be (.25+.25+.25+.25)^(-1) => 1 Ohm
In series if would be 4+4+4+4 = 16 ohms.....
Those results should kinda explain themselves if I understand the setup correctly.
Yes 4 drivers (15 inch) off of one amp that is only stable in 4 ohms mono.
{The speakers where the Kicker C-15 SVC 4 ohm }
I think they mentioned with the amount of wireing and when the drives start to really work hard the ohms will drop and that would somwtimes clip the amp.?
In series if would be 4+4+4+4 = 16 ohms.....
Those results should kinda explain themselves if I understand the setup correctly.
Yes 4 drivers (15 inch) off of one amp that is only stable in 4 ohms mono.
{The speakers where the Kicker C-15 SVC 4 ohm }
I think they mentioned with the amount of wireing and when the drives start to really work hard the ohms will drop and that would somwtimes clip the amp.?
01-24-2007, 09:35 PM
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Can you link me to the actual amp model? If it was only stable down to 4 Ohms as you said...why were you trying to run it down at 1 ohm?
EDIT: I see...you knew it wasn't stable there and ran it that way anyway -- and now want to know exactly WHY it wont work?
EDIT: I see...you knew it wasn't stable there and ran it that way anyway -- and now want to know exactly WHY it wont work?
01-24-2007, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by fredmr39
Can you link me to the actual amp model? If it was only stable down to 4 Ohms as you said...why were you trying to run it down at 1 ohm?
EDIT: I see...you knew it wasn't stable there and ran it that way anyway -- and now want to know exactly WHY it wont work?
EDIT: I see...you knew it wasn't stable there and ran it that way anyway -- and now want to know exactly WHY it wont work?
01-24-2007, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by B T
I found out why I fried it, I'm just trying to figure out why the "ohmage" difference made such a HUGE impact on VOLUME since in 16 ohms the efficency of the speaker should be better and in my setup sounded worse than when I killed the amp and it sounded even better in 1 ohm than 4
The lower the impedance (resistance or "load") an amplifier sees, the more power it produces - transistor response/heatsink/inner workings of the amp can only put out so much depending on their design.... your amp simply could not handle it. The reason your amp was producing more power is simple due to ohms law...P = I V = I^(2) R = V^(2)/R..... As seen in the equation and mentioned earlier I believe, resistance goes down (in this case...AC resistance ("impedance")) causing power to rise. If you want a more technical answer, I will type one out later or WhiteBird00 or TA guy I'm sure would gladly explain more
Last edited by fredmr39; 01-24-2007 at 10:03 PM.
01-24-2007, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fredmr39
Well you were demanding way too much from your amp at such a low impedance (though a lot ARE stable down to one ohm........I still have no idea how he gave you a 1/4 ohms figure (assuming nominal))....
The lower the impedance (resistance or "load") an amplifier sees, the more power it produces - transistor response/inner workings of the amp can only put out so much depending on their design.... your amp simply could not handle it. The reason your amp was producing more power is simple due to ohms law...P = I V = I^(2) R = V^(2)/R..... As seen in the equation and mentioned earlier I believe, resistance goes down (in this case...AC resistance ("impedance")) causing power to rise. If you want a more technical answer, I will type one out later or WhiteBird00 or TA guy I'm sure would gladly explain more
The lower the impedance (resistance or "load") an amplifier sees, the more power it produces - transistor response/inner workings of the amp can only put out so much depending on their design.... your amp simply could not handle it. The reason your amp was producing more power is simple due to ohms law...P = I V = I^(2) R = V^(2)/R..... As seen in the equation and mentioned earlier I believe, resistance goes down (in this case...AC resistance ("impedance")) causing power to rise. If you want a more technical answer, I will type one out later or WhiteBird00 or TA guy I'm sure would gladly explain more
I think you covered it fine, I just thought the way TA guy was explaining it the amount of ohms an amp sees based on the same setup would be negligable from a performance standpoint.
Anyway, I'm getting this thread off topic....
01-24-2007, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
Is there a way to put a midrange in place of the sub? I know i can put a mid there, but how would i make it produce that sound unlike the sub.
If you hooked up a mid range to the sail amp wires it will sound like junk and probably kill it.
BT
01-25-2007, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordon0652
Is there a way to put a midrange in place of the sub? I know i can put a mid there, but how would i make it produce that sound unlike the sub.
If you wanted just midbass there I think there is enough of the lower frequency range for that to be made possible... what were you thinking of as midbass? 100-300 hz or so?
You could use an aftermarket amp...or maybe even HU. Aftermarket amps/HU, midbasses and a sub- is that what you are looking at? Bandpassing that crossover setup might be tricky....or impossible on most amps and HUs... There are amps though with ability to bandpass freqs for a decent portion of the range. Another way would be to use active filters/sound processors.
EDIT: sorry........................I realize now you were looking for midrange and NOT midbass. Refer to the post above this one for your answer. You will not be able to do this using the wires that lead there. If you don't want the hatch speakers though you can always pull those wires forward and do whatever you like. I see you have a Firebird...so the hatch speakers are components. You could always us the signal from the midrange on those to power midrange speakers you put in the sail. The higher quality speakers you use and the fact that it would be closer to you would probably be enough, IMO.
Last edited by fredmr39; 01-25-2007 at 12:43 AM.
01-25-2007, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by fredmr39
Don't quote me on this...but I believe mid bass frequencies are still sent to the "sub" since the really aren't "subs".....I know it is filtered, I am just unsure of the exact specs... I might turn that into another project..
If you wanted just midbass there I think there is enough of the lower frequency range for that to be made possible... what were you thinking of as midbass? 100-300 hz or so?
You could use an aftermarket amp...or maybe even HU. Aftermarket amps/HU, midbasses and a sub- is that what you are looking at? Bandpassing that crossover setup might be tricky....or impossible on most amps and HUs... There are amps though with ability to bandpass freqs for a decent portion of the range. Another way would be to use active filters/sound processors.
EDIT: sorry........................I realize now you were looking for midrange and NOT midbass. Refer to the post above this one for your answer. You will not be able to do this using the wires that lead there. If you don't want the hatch speakers though you can always pull those wires forward and do whatever you like. I see you have a Firebird...so the hatch speakers are components. You could always us the signal from the midrange on those to power midrange speakers you put in the sail. The higher quality speakers you use and the fact that it would be closer to you would probably be enough, IMO.
If you wanted just midbass there I think there is enough of the lower frequency range for that to be made possible... what were you thinking of as midbass? 100-300 hz or so?
You could use an aftermarket amp...or maybe even HU. Aftermarket amps/HU, midbasses and a sub- is that what you are looking at? Bandpassing that crossover setup might be tricky....or impossible on most amps and HUs... There are amps though with ability to bandpass freqs for a decent portion of the range. Another way would be to use active filters/sound processors.
EDIT: sorry........................I realize now you were looking for midrange and NOT midbass. Refer to the post above this one for your answer. You will not be able to do this using the wires that lead there. If you don't want the hatch speakers though you can always pull those wires forward and do whatever you like. I see you have a Firebird...so the hatch speakers are components. You could always us the signal from the midrange on those to power midrange speakers you put in the sail. The higher quality speakers you use and the fact that it would be closer to you would probably be enough, IMO.
>>>>
I'm not really sure but I think he would like to use the OEM amp for volume rather than the "wire pull though" ( which would work, although It should be a full signal at less volume (watts), that would need a passive cross and a cap for true "mid".
I thought about the "pull through" but I just didn't want to go down that road.
Just my 2 cents...