Need help w/ rear sail speaker selection
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Need help w/ rear sail speaker selection Hey everybody! First post. I have a 2001 camaro w/ monsoon amp, JVC KD-HDR1 (HU), Alpine SPR-17LP in door panels, Boston Acoustics RC41 mids & tweets in rear, Infinity 10'' BassLink in trunk & stock speakers in rear sail panel. All speakers use original wiring through monsoon amp. I just blew one of the sail speakers & am looking to replace them. Now my question is should I replace them with a mid bass driver using original wiring or 2-way speakers that will be spliced off rear hatch input to the RC41's? If I splice it what ohm speakers should I get? Thanks in advance for any help.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Were you looking for more bass? It sounds like you MIGHT want more since you just have the Infinity in the trunk and midrange components.... Do you like the tweeters back there? Usually components sound better up front...
Your options are: replace the rear sails with 6.5" subs
OR
throw in some coaxials and block out the higher frequencies (though they would already be filtered from the amp)......or leave them alone and get rid of the tweets in the rear -- I just wouldn't have them all playing hi freqs, but it's all personal preference and what YOU like best.
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You would want them to have a 2 Ohm impedance...but you wont find that without spending lots of money on coaxials - so 4 Ohms is fine. If you go with 6.5" "subs", then you would want a single voice coil at 2 ohms or a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub.
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I'm not sure what you were talking about as far as splicing into the hatch, but I would avoid that.
Your options are: replace the rear sails with 6.5" subs
OR
throw in some coaxials and block out the higher frequencies (though they would already be filtered from the amp)......or leave them alone and get rid of the tweets in the rear -- I just wouldn't have them all playing hi freqs, but it's all personal preference and what YOU like best.
---
You would want them to have a 2 Ohm impedance...but you wont find that without spending lots of money on coaxials - so 4 Ohms is fine. If you go with 6.5" "subs", then you would want a single voice coil at 2 ohms or a dual 4 ohm voice coil sub.
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I'm not sure what you were talking about as far as splicing into the hatch, but I would avoid that.
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I guess i'm looking for more highs than bass. The Infinity in trunk really hits. It sounds real good inside but outside thats another story.
The tweeters in the back are all right, I have the Alpine in the front doors that produce real good highs, thats why I put the tweeters back there.
The splicing I'm talking about would be to basically run the mids, tweets & 2-way coaxial with the stock wiring to the rear hatch speakers(running a total of 6 speakers from rear hatch) without losing highs for the 6.5 coaxial.
The tweeters in the back are all right, I have the Alpine in the front doors that produce real good highs, thats why I put the tweeters back there.
The splicing I'm talking about would be to basically run the mids, tweets & 2-way coaxial with the stock wiring to the rear hatch speakers(running a total of 6 speakers from rear hatch) without losing highs for the 6.5 coaxial.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by azwildcat72
I guess i'm looking for more highs than bass. The Infinity in trunk really hits. It sounds real good inside but outside thats another story.
The tweeters in the back are all right, I have the Alpine in the front doors that produce real good highs, thats why I put the tweeters back there.
The splicing I'm talking about would be to basically run the mids, tweets & 2-way coaxial with the stock wiring to the rear hatch speakers(running a total of 6 speakers from rear hatch) without losing highs for the 6.5 coaxial.
The tweeters in the back are all right, I have the Alpine in the front doors that produce real good highs, thats why I put the tweeters back there.
The splicing I'm talking about would be to basically run the mids, tweets & 2-way coaxial with the stock wiring to the rear hatch speakers(running a total of 6 speakers from rear hatch) without losing highs for the 6.5 coaxial.
Are you SURE you want more highs? I mean...I know that's what you said and it is personal preference, but you might want to think twice about that.
Also, how long have you had the Infinity? If it's new, your tastes may change and decide it's not enough after a while...filling the rear sails with more bass would complement that sub very well.
If you really want more highs though I say just a set of coaxials back there and then power them via HU unless you just want lower mids.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
You mean something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/AUDIOBAHN-AMD60Q...QQcmdZViewItem
That is an option. Just make sure whatever goes back there can take over 50 wrms.....probably more in the 75wrms range.
Those above would be a very affordable option:
3 Ohm Impedance
Sensitivity: 93dB
SVC
Wiring for Camaro sails would be simple, it's close to the 2 Ohm impedance the factory amp performs best at, and they have excellent sensitivity (higher = more efficient = will sound louder with less power than a sensitivity of 85 for example)
for more: https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/639901-install-guide-w-pics-upgrading-factory-monsoon-subs-6-5-ones-ed-eu700s.html
That is an option. Just make sure whatever goes back there can take over 50 wrms.....probably more in the 75wrms range.
Those above would be a very affordable option:
3 Ohm Impedance
Sensitivity: 93dB
SVC
Wiring for Camaro sails would be simple, it's close to the 2 Ohm impedance the factory amp performs best at, and they have excellent sensitivity (higher = more efficient = will sound louder with less power than a sensitivity of 85 for example)
for more: https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/639901-install-guide-w-pics-upgrading-factory-monsoon-subs-6-5-ones-ed-eu700s.html
Last edited by fredmr39; Jan 19, 2007 at 05:00 PM.
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Yeah, that looks about right just shipping is really high. Any way I think I got a pretty good idea on what to do. All I need to do is to make sure they fit and that they will be able to handle 75wrms or more(for future amp).
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
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From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by azwildcat72
Yeah, that looks about right just shipping is really high. Any way I think I got a pretty good idea on what to do. All I need to do is to make sure they fit and that they will be able to handle 75wrms or more(for future amp).
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
If you just wanted part of a standard component set you could always run them off of HU power, so 50-75wrms would not be necessary. Also, keep in mind that 50-75wrms is only a very rough guess by me...if anything though, it would likely be lower than 75wrms...so that's just giving room to be safe. Also, that is the power that would be put out to a 2 ohm element....4 ohms would get only about 65% of that power or less, while 3 ohms are somewhere in between.
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