Desperate for wiring advice!
Desperate for wiring advice! Well here is the deal guys…I just picked up a 2001 NBM Trans Am WS6 and I’m having a ton of trouble transferring the sub and amp from my last vehicle. In my last vehicle I had an Alpine headunit with subwoofer preouts, which was very nice. However, with the T/A I really want to keep the stock look, and not install a aftermarket headunit. My understanding is that with the use of a “Line Level Output” (converting speaker wire to RCA cables) I can use my factory head unit. So far all I have successfully accomplished is running the power wire to the amp, and grounding the amp. Everything else has given me problems. At one point I had everything hooked up (power, ground, remote turn on, subwoofer etc…) and had spliced the rear midrange speakers (+/-) on each side with the line level converter…..It sounded absolutely horrible. So I thought, well they ARE midrange speakers, so maybe my subs only getting midrange. I then used the sail panel midbasses (+/-) from each, and once again it didn’t sound good at all.
At this point I’m very very confused and frustrated. I’m pretty competent when it comes to this kind of stuff, but working with something that wasn’t made to work has got me stumped! My questions are as follows…
1. Using the line level output….where should I splice it into? (midbasses in sail, or midranges in rear)
2. Where is the closest source of switched 12v power in the rear of the car? (remote turn on)
I really appreciate any help I can get from you guys....I'd like to get the box built tommorrow (easy)...but i need to get it to make sound first
At this point I’m very very confused and frustrated. I’m pretty competent when it comes to this kind of stuff, but working with something that wasn’t made to work has got me stumped! My questions are as follows…
1. Using the line level output….where should I splice it into? (midbasses in sail, or midranges in rear)
2. Where is the closest source of switched 12v power in the rear of the car? (remote turn on)
I really appreciate any help I can get from you guys....I'd like to get the box built tommorrow (easy)...but i need to get it to make sound first
using the line level output you want to find the closest speaker to the subs. basically which ever one you want. but if you're having trouble with it the 2 reasons are either 1) you get what you pay for (cheap brand) or 2) try hooking it up to the Bose base sub in the trunk (if your car came with it and since it's a WS.6 i would think it would)
the best switched 12v power is just gonna be the accessory wire to your ignition. you can rig it other ways but it won't be reliable plus you'll just **** off the next person that owns your car when they try and put a headunit in...
the best switched 12v power is just gonna be the accessory wire to your ignition. you can rig it other ways but it won't be reliable plus you'll just **** off the next person that owns your car when they try and put a headunit in...
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by JoeKnowsBaseball
using the line level output you want to find the closest speaker to the subs. basically which ever one you want. but if you're having trouble with it the 2 reasons are either 1) you get what you pay for (cheap brand) or 2) try hooking it up to the Bose base sub in the trunk (if your car came with it and since it's a WS.6 i would think it would)
You may be having a problem with your LLC because of overloading. Try connecting to the speaker level inputs at the Monsoon amp rather than the amplified outputs. Then be sure to add a low-pass filter so that you don't pass any high frequency signal to your sub.
Originally Posted by JoeKnowsBaseball
the best switched 12v power is just gonna be the accessory wire to your ignition. you can rig it other ways but it won't be reliable plus you'll just **** off the next person that owns your car when they try and put a headunit in...
Ah well you guys are being very helpful so far! I had my remote wire hooked up to the power antenna, and with a test light I was getting power at the amp, yet it wouldnt tell the amp to turn on! 
then when i ran a wire straight from the + on the battery, it fired right up. maybe its not getting 12v from the antenna?
But anyway I'm positive the line output converter is pretty crappy, because it just came with an amp my buddy bought for his exploder....but surely it shouldnt sound this bad....I just want it to sound decent and possibly upgrade later.
as far as tapping wires at the amp...what color/location are they?
well thats all that i can think of now and im sure i'll think of something else, thanks for helpin the newb
OH...and heres some quick pics....
AMP CONTROLS: thinking that I can just use the internal LPF?
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0563.jpg
RESONANT ENGINEERING SE 12 SUB: 600W RMS 1200 PEAK
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0572.jpg
AMP REMOTE (NEVER USED IT?!?!)
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0573.jpg
then when i ran a wire straight from the + on the battery, it fired right up. maybe its not getting 12v from the antenna?But anyway I'm positive the line output converter is pretty crappy, because it just came with an amp my buddy bought for his exploder....but surely it shouldnt sound this bad....I just want it to sound decent and possibly upgrade later.
as far as tapping wires at the amp...what color/location are they?
well thats all that i can think of now and im sure i'll think of something else, thanks for helpin the newb
OH...and heres some quick pics....
AMP CONTROLS: thinking that I can just use the internal LPF?
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0563.jpg
RESONANT ENGINEERING SE 12 SUB: 600W RMS 1200 PEAK
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0572.jpg
AMP REMOTE (NEVER USED IT?!?!)
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0573.jpg
Originally Posted by mattl31
Ah well you guys are being very helpful so far! I had my remote wire hooked up to the power antenna, and with a test light I was getting power at the amp, yet it wouldnt tell the amp to turn on! then when i ran a wire straight from the + on the battery, it fired right up. maybe its not getting 12v from the antenna?
But anyway I'm positive the line output converter is pretty crappy, because it just came with an amp my buddy bought for his exploder....but surely it shouldnt sound this bad....I just want it to sound decent and possibly upgrade later.
as far as tapping wires at the amp...what color/location are they?
well thats all that i can think of now and im sure i'll think of something else, thanks for helpin the newb
OH...and heres some quick pics....
AMP CONTROLS: thinking that I can just use the internal LPF?
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0563.jpg
RESONANT ENGINEERING SE 12 SUB: 600W RMS 1200 PEAK
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0572.jpg
AMP REMOTE (NEVER USED IT?!?!)
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0573.jpg
then when i ran a wire straight from the + on the battery, it fired right up. maybe its not getting 12v from the antenna?But anyway I'm positive the line output converter is pretty crappy, because it just came with an amp my buddy bought for his exploder....but surely it shouldnt sound this bad....I just want it to sound decent and possibly upgrade later.
as far as tapping wires at the amp...what color/location are they?
well thats all that i can think of now and im sure i'll think of something else, thanks for helpin the newb
OH...and heres some quick pics....
AMP CONTROLS: thinking that I can just use the internal LPF?
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0563.jpg
RESONANT ENGINEERING SE 12 SUB: 600W RMS 1200 PEAK
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0572.jpg
AMP REMOTE (NEVER USED IT?!?!)
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...1/100_0573.jpg
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by mattl31
Ah well you guys are being very helpful so far! I had my remote wire hooked up to the power antenna, and with a test light I was getting power at the amp, yet it wouldnt tell the amp to turn on! then when i ran a wire straight from the + on the battery, it fired right up. maybe its not getting 12v from the antenna?
then when i ran a wire straight from the + on the battery, it fired right up. maybe its not getting 12v from the antenna?
Originally Posted by mattl31
as far as tapping wires at the amp...what color/location are they?
haha no no....the power for the amp is wired through 5 gauge wire, under the carpet, through the firewall behind the computer, wire loomed and all. but yes I did turn on the radio, antenna extended and everything. I'm starting to think that maybe its the wire they gave me...its just wierd because according to the test light there is power at the connection 
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by mattl31
man...your responsible for the Monsoon FAQ huh? Impressive...Okay so should I tap the input wires, or the output wires?
TECH Resident
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
Here are the color codes for the wiring at the amp:
What Element was saying was if you are using the power antenna output of the factory deck to turn the amplifier on, the factory deck may only supply 12v when the radio portion is on. When the CD portion of the deck is on, the 12v is not present and the amp will not turn on. run a wire to the yellow wire at the back of the headunit for your remote turn on. THAT is definately switched 12v.
Honestly if it were my car, I would be buying a couple of Metra wiring harness that plug into the radio and car. Wire the LOC between them. Read this thread (post# 28): https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...tput+converter
What Element was saying was if you are using the power antenna output of the factory deck to turn the amplifier on, the factory deck may only supply 12v when the radio portion is on. When the CD portion of the deck is on, the 12v is not present and the amp will not turn on. run a wire to the yellow wire at the back of the headunit for your remote turn on. THAT is definately switched 12v.
Honestly if it were my car, I would be buying a couple of Metra wiring harness that plug into the radio and car. Wire the LOC between them. Read this thread (post# 28): https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...tput+converter
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Originally Posted by Snootch
Here are the color codes for the wiring at the amp:
Originally Posted by Snootch
What Element was saying was if you are using the power antenna output of the factory deck to turn the amplifier on, the factory deck may only supply 12v when the radio portion is on. When the CD portion of the deck is on, the 12v is not present and the amp will not turn on.
alright....UPDATE. I did all of the above and it sounds much better. now my problem is the volume. I can hear the sail panel subs over my 12" sub...and that aint right 
anyone know how I can squeeze more volume out of that thing? (no equalizer adjustment as it also turns up the sails). and also, does anyone know with my remote (linked earlier in thread), what kind of cord do I need? I left my other one in my Jeep when I sold it, and as far as I can tell its just a phone cable. Thanks!
anyone know how I can squeeze more volume out of that thing? (no equalizer adjustment as it also turns up the sails). and also, does anyone know with my remote (linked earlier in thread), what kind of cord do I need? I left my other one in my Jeep when I sold it, and as far as I can tell its just a phone cable. Thanks! TECH Resident
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From: Showing Italians the power of LS1
Originally Posted by WhiteBird00
Same as in the Monsoon FAQ
No, the factory head unit provides power to the antenna whenever it is on in any mode - radio, CD, CD changer, or tape player.
No, the factory head unit provides power to the antenna whenever it is on in any mode - radio, CD, CD changer, or tape player.
On most decks I have seen the deck powers the antenna up or down whether the radio function is on or off. I forgot the Monsoon is different.
Originally Posted by mattl31
alright....UPDATE. I did all of the above and it sounds much better. now my problem is the volume. I can hear the sail panel subs over my 12" sub...and that aint right anyone know how I can squeeze more volume out of that thing? (no equalizer adjustment as it also turns up the sails). and also, does anyone know with my remote (linked earlier in thread), what kind of cord do I need? I left my other one in my Jeep when I sold it, and as far as I can tell its just a phone cable. Thanks!
anyone know how I can squeeze more volume out of that thing? (no equalizer adjustment as it also turns up the sails). and also, does anyone know with my remote (linked earlier in thread), what kind of cord do I need? I left my other one in my Jeep when I sold it, and as far as I can tell its just a phone cable. Thanks!What model of amplifier are you running? From the picture, it looks like you are running one of these amplifiers (manual link): ftp://inform.kenwoodusa.com/manuals/KAC9152d.pdf
The manual doesn't give any information about the cable specifically, but it may just be a straight through 4-wire phone cable with RJ11 ends. But it may have wires crossed internally (like a CAT5 network crossover cable). I would call Kenwood's tech support and see if is a straight through 4-wire cable. If it is, you should be able to use an ordinary phone cable from Radio Shack. If it is not a regular phone cable and you use one, you may damage the amplifier.
Last edited by Snootch; Feb 1, 2007 at 05:23 AM.
the input sensitivity ON the amp was all the way up...and the controller only has boost level, and frequency on it. so i'm assuming if i hook it up then i can boost a certain frequency?!