also a lil help with system...
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
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also a lil help with system... I purchased a Pioneer H/U
2 sets of component speakers 1 front 1 backseat... ditching the speakers (factory subs) in back
1 4 channel
1 mono
1 10" alpine sub...
im pretty content with the quality of my system... not looking for any help on that.. my only question is do you think a capicator is necessary?... am i running to much without the cap?... i understand it's probably better with it... but will i be bad without it??
nothing im getting is 1,000,000 watts... just a lil upgrade from stock... not looking to go comp style or anything... thx.
2 sets of component speakers 1 front 1 backseat... ditching the speakers (factory subs) in back
1 4 channel
1 mono
1 10" alpine sub...
im pretty content with the quality of my system... not looking for any help on that.. my only question is do you think a capicator is necessary?... am i running to much without the cap?... i understand it's probably better with it... but will i be bad without it??
nothing im getting is 1,000,000 watts... just a lil upgrade from stock... not looking to go comp style or anything... thx.
don't waste money on a cap until you know you need it. Every car and type of gear is going to be different. Wait until it's all hooked up, and if you have minor light dimming , then a cap can help. If you have major light dimming, a cap will not be enough, time to get a big alternator. But there is no sense in spending money on something if you don't need it.
Originally Posted by Mike @ FbodyAudio
don't waste money on a cap until you know you need it. Every car and type of gear is going to be different. Wait until it's all hooked up, and if you have minor light dimming , then a cap can help. If you have major light dimming, a cap will not be enough, time to get a big alternator. But there is no sense in spending money on something if you don't need it.
You never recommended them since it's usally a bandaid. Minor dimming is usually a bad ground. Big dimming, well you know, that's just lack of power. 
no, I personally don't use them, but I got tired of arguing with people that caps are useless, that I'll atleast try to talk someone into waiting until they see what electrical upgrades are needed first, before buying stuff.
IF I were to install a cap in a car, I would not wire it at the amps. I'd wire it under the hood in with the wiring that powers the headlights, since that is the only part of your car that minor voltage dips create an issue you can actually see.
IF I were to install a cap in a car, I would not wire it at the amps. I'd wire it under the hood in with the wiring that powers the headlights, since that is the only part of your car that minor voltage dips create an issue you can actually see.
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Originally Posted by bbal4now
IMO unless your 4 channel happens to be over 500 watts and your mono over 500 watts as well, I can't see it creating a problem. I ran a 350.4 and 2 600.1's in my camaro with no cap and no problem.
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wow, lots of issues here with cap theory.
dimming lights are NOT a sign that a cap is needed, in fact, they are not related one bit.
a cap is used for one thing...voltage smoothing. if you look at a voltmeter inyour car, when your bass hits, the voltage drops, then it goes up. when it drops, unregualted amps (most amps) will loose power output, and thus your subs will loose their "steam".
a cap will smooth the voltage response in the car, keeping the subs going strong throughout your drive.
sometimes, as a result of the smoothed voltage the headlights dont dim as much, but its never a reason to get a cap.
in lieu of getting a cap, try ugrading the "big three" which means upgrading the battery ground, battery to alternator power cable, and the alternator ground. i found 2 gauge battery ground cables at auto zone (now in my car).
dimming lights are NOT a sign that a cap is needed, in fact, they are not related one bit.
a cap is used for one thing...voltage smoothing. if you look at a voltmeter inyour car, when your bass hits, the voltage drops, then it goes up. when it drops, unregualted amps (most amps) will loose power output, and thus your subs will loose their "steam".
a cap will smooth the voltage response in the car, keeping the subs going strong throughout your drive.
sometimes, as a result of the smoothed voltage the headlights dont dim as much, but its never a reason to get a cap.
in lieu of getting a cap, try ugrading the "big three" which means upgrading the battery ground, battery to alternator power cable, and the alternator ground. i found 2 gauge battery ground cables at auto zone (now in my car).
Im running two ppi 2360 amps for my cdt audiophile components and coaxes, and a punch 250a2 on my he3 12's and no voltage issue here. I have a 4 gauge lead and 8 gauge runs from the distribution block.
Originally Posted by fast01z28
wow, lots of issues here with cap theory.
dimming lights are NOT a sign that a cap is needed, in fact, they are not related one bit.
a cap is used for one thing...voltage smoothing. if you look at a voltmeter inyour car, when your bass hits, the voltage drops, then it goes up. when it drops, unregualted amps (most amps) will loose power output, and thus your subs will loose their "steam".
a cap will smooth the voltage response in the car, keeping the subs going strong throughout your drive.
sometimes, as a result of the smoothed voltage the headlights dont dim as much, but its never a reason to get a cap.
in lieu of getting a cap, try ugrading the "big three" which means upgrading the battery ground, battery to alternator power cable, and the alternator ground. i found 2 gauge battery ground cables at auto zone (now in my car).
dimming lights are NOT a sign that a cap is needed, in fact, they are not related one bit.
a cap is used for one thing...voltage smoothing. if you look at a voltmeter inyour car, when your bass hits, the voltage drops, then it goes up. when it drops, unregualted amps (most amps) will loose power output, and thus your subs will loose their "steam".
a cap will smooth the voltage response in the car, keeping the subs going strong throughout your drive.
sometimes, as a result of the smoothed voltage the headlights dont dim as much, but its never a reason to get a cap.
in lieu of getting a cap, try ugrading the "big three" which means upgrading the battery ground, battery to alternator power cable, and the alternator ground. i found 2 gauge battery ground cables at auto zone (now in my car).
And I have 1/0 cable on the big three. Know what happened? Everything still dimmed, rofl! Both yellow top batteries dead in 10/15 seconds of hard hitting bass while the car was running, rofl. 102amp alternators just don't cut it sometimes. yea, a larger alternator is sometimes needed, but yo have to admit, people tend to buy them, as well as caps, when all they really needed was the big 3.
in my last car i had a 150 amp alternator, big 3, and optima yellow top, and all was good. this car wont get that kinda system tho.
in my last car i had a 150 amp alternator, big 3, and optima yellow top, and all was good. this car wont get that kinda system tho.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
It also depends on whether your amp is Class D. There are Class AB monoblocks about - don't buy them at any wattage. There are also full-range Class D amps you can use for your component sets, but those are still more expensive than Class ABs. However, they aren't TOO bad, I got my Pioneer PRS-D4000F for about $200.
why not buy class AB? for subs they are very inefficient, but they are much cleaner, less distortion.
ultimately, a regualted amp is the best option since your subs dont fade even when your voltage drops.
ultimately, a regualted amp is the best option since your subs dont fade even when your voltage drops.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,591
Likes: 1
From: Massachusetts
You're not going to hear the distortion with subs. Why not go for something that sounds the same (even if it measures a little worse), draws less power and runs cooler?
AB is the devil for subs.
AB is the devil for subs.
