Well, here is what I went with..
Well, here is what I went with.. Well, I cant get anything but crackeling and a little treble out of my system in the TA and its DRIVING ME CRAZY. So, I went ahead and going to hook the system up this way.
I bought 4 of these:
Which were ~60 a pair.
Going to put these in the door and in where the rear seats go. The rear seat area are made for the factory 6.5" subs. But, I am not using the back speakers at all due to the cage will mount there. So, just going to tap into those wires, which are the same as the fronts. So, got the mids/highs covered.
Now just need to bass portion. Instead of having a big *** box in the trunk, I purchased this stealth box.
Wich was ~125 bucks.
and will look like this.
I all ready have a 10 that will fit perfect, so got that covered.
Now for and amp to drive the sub. After a little searching, I figured I only needed a 1 channel, and purchased this AMP.
Which does: 900 watts MAX x 1 at 2 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
Selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover. 12 dB per octave TRANSana circuit designs keep voltages low and signal paths simple in the pre-amp section, for minimum distortion and maximum power.
MESHA provides more efficient transfer of heat from MOSFET output devices to the heatsink for cooler operation
TOPAZ--noise killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
NOMAD--advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection-
speaker-level inputs
selectable Punch Bass boost (0/6/12 dB at 45 Hz)
frequency response 20-20,000 Hz
Item measures 11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
So, I think that will be good enough for one sub, only cost 159 bucks. WHATCHA THINK?
I bought 4 of these:
Which were ~60 a pair.Going to put these in the door and in where the rear seats go. The rear seat area are made for the factory 6.5" subs. But, I am not using the back speakers at all due to the cage will mount there. So, just going to tap into those wires, which are the same as the fronts. So, got the mids/highs covered.
Now just need to bass portion. Instead of having a big *** box in the trunk, I purchased this stealth box.
Wich was ~125 bucks.and will look like this.
I all ready have a 10 that will fit perfect, so got that covered.
Now for and amp to drive the sub. After a little searching, I figured I only needed a 1 channel, and purchased this AMP.
Which does: 900 watts MAX x 1 at 2 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
Selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover. 12 dB per octave TRANSana circuit designs keep voltages low and signal paths simple in the pre-amp section, for minimum distortion and maximum power.
MESHA provides more efficient transfer of heat from MOSFET output devices to the heatsink for cooler operation
TOPAZ--noise killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
NOMAD--advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection-
speaker-level inputs
selectable Punch Bass boost (0/6/12 dB at 45 Hz)
frequency response 20-20,000 Hz
Item measures 11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
So, I think that will be good enough for one sub, only cost 159 bucks. WHATCHA THINK?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 3
From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Do you have an aftermarket HU? What route were you going to run the coaxials full range? (HU, all wires, woofer wires only - if those are full range on TA)
What sub do you have for the box?
What sub do you have for the box?
Originally Posted by fredmr39
Do you have an aftermarket HU? What route were you going to run the coaxials full range? (HU, all wires, woofer wires only - if those are full range on TA)
What sub do you have for the box?
What sub do you have for the box?
The sub woofer is an old sony 10" I have that requires a .6CF of air space.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 3
From: Champaign/Chicagoland
Originally Posted by waterbug1999
For now, I am going to use teh stock HU... I was just going to plug them in and mount em...
The sub woofer is an old sony 10" I have that requires a .6CF of air space.
The sub woofer is an old sony 10" I have that requires a .6CF of air space.
I know that you're gonna "plug them in and mount em" -- I was asking how you plan on doing that since a lot are unsure of their options. You have a Firebird, so the best option for the door isn't necessarily plug and play (can't use all 4 wires easily) -- and the sail speakers do not receive a full signal there from the factory....
Just not sure if you knew any limitations/etc. you have.
Well, I have not looked at it yet. From what I nderstand, the fronts are 2 different connections, just like the ones in the very back. If thats the case, then I am just going to plug in the new ones and leave the tweeters alone.
The sail panels, I get a little confused as to which ones those are? Are those the ones where the factory subs are? Or the ones in teh VERY back?
I am not using the very back ones at all. I am going to re-route those wires to where the factory sub holes are and use the one mentioned above...
The amp and sub are going to be seperate, i play around as to where I can splice into what wire. I was thinking about splicing into the factory sub wire. But, dont know if that will work as it might have to many watts to go into an aftermarket amp... So, not sure on that. Ill figure something out though.
The sail panels, I get a little confused as to which ones those are? Are those the ones where the factory subs are? Or the ones in teh VERY back?
I am not using the very back ones at all. I am going to re-route those wires to where the factory sub holes are and use the one mentioned above...
The amp and sub are going to be seperate, i play around as to where I can splice into what wire. I was thinking about splicing into the factory sub wire. But, dont know if that will work as it might have to many watts to go into an aftermarket amp... So, not sure on that. Ill figure something out though.
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Originally Posted by nomoneyz
Dude get a line out converter and splice into the rear left speaker and use some good RCA's. When you splice do it closer to the deck, Easier to hide IMO.
LOL.. Its been awhile since I had my old system in. but, I think I have one allready ran. I just forgot about it due to it being up in the driver side area in the back. I dont take that panel off and forgot about it.. thanks for reminding me. lol