Ok, I guess I still don't full understand it ... I know pressing the brake is part of shifting it out of park, but shouldn't you actually have to move the shifter before the relay clicks/activates in addition to pressing on the petal?

Still unusual that yesterday the 452t was putting out a constant 12+ on both blue/green wires, just on the meter and not yet into the BCM. Maybe my 452t, maybe I should cut it out and test it on the bench

I'll go take a look at it again now

 

You connected terminal 85 to the neutral safety switch (not directly to ground)? If you connect 86 to the orange/black wire but 85 to ground then the relay will energize whenever power is available on the orange/black wire - basically whenever you step on the brake pedal. The neutral safety switch provides ground only when the transmission is in park or neutral so the relay circuit won't energize with the transmission in gear.

 

Yes, I cut the wire in half and the switch went to 85, and the other end going back into the car is on 86. The relay isn't connected directly to a ground. I attached a picture, though you probably can't make much of it.

 

Okay...just to eliminate the obvious, you are doing your testing with the ignition on and the car in gear? Because if the car is in park when you test then the neutral switch will be providing ground so the relay will click when you step on the brake.

 

Ok, I think everything is looking pretty good now. I shouldn't have tried doing this over my lunch break ... I wasn't thinking it through and mis-read your last email. Your instructions were perfect.

One thing of note ... when I would put it into park and it unlocks, the door lock button is no longer functional, ie you can't get out and hit the lock button. This is normally okay since I usually lock it from the remote anyway.

You'd think once the car is off the 452t/relays are disabled and not affecting the BCM anymore so it would work as if they weren't there. I moved the power source from a switched to a constant source, and the button works when the car is off - however the doors lock themselves when you turn the car off.

I'm happy with it as it is, but if you have any insight into keeping the door lock buttons active when the power is off I'd appreciate it.

 

Well, I installed the DEI 530t ... I just need to open up the passenger door and hook it up there, otherwise it works, and the remote second channel is controlling the windows.

However, there seems to be some kind of weird conflict with the 452t/auto-locking.

All is fine, but if I turn off the car with the door open, the window rolls down.

Right now I'm not using a relay on the 530t ... I took it off to see if it would help, though it shouldn't being doing anything when the car is off

I unhooked power to the 452t and it's relay, and that fixed the above issue, whoever then the window loses it's "express" mode EDIT: I think I just need to adjust the sensitivity - it does occasionally use express mode

 

So...can we get a detailed write-up on the window down thingy? Tried to follow the thread but it went form windows to door locks. Maybe its beacuse I am tired and need sleep....

 

It should not be much different than the 561t(remote start module install).

Damn, I should have done that when I did the 561t.

 

I used the tutorial at http://www.p71interceptor.com/fourthgen/windowmodule/ for the 530t install.

Some of the colors for the passenger side are wrong ... the motor wires are blue and brown like the driver's door -- though that should be obvious since the motor only has two wires.

The passenger switch wires aren't tan/light blue - instead it's dark blue for motor up (brown/black to 530t) and brown for motor down (white/black to 530t). There are two brown wires, I found the right one with a meter - I can double check the right one.

Should also note that the passenger switch and motor wires need to run over into the passenger door.

To get the second channel, I used this thread:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/615947-idea-progressive-doorlock-bypass.html

I used the last post with the alternative wiring since I have a 98 - it worked fine for me

 

^^Thanks for the info. May have to try this out.

 

WhiteBird00: Any more thoughts on getting the shifter auto-locking to work with the remote windows? Maybe it's just something that can't be done ... I can switch over to ignition based locked, but it's kinda of a shame since the shifter locks do work on their own, and are really the way to go.

 

I thought of a possible solution to allow you to use your door unlock buttons with the car on or off without a relay by only triggering the 530t on the second pulse -- with some help I found a module I believe is capable of doing this.

It's the Peripheral Electronics PTR7 "Universal Timer/Trigger Module". It has 16 different modes to do many functions, and is programmable ... goes for about $25 shipped on eBay

http://peripheralelectronics.com/pro...?ProductID=269

Here is the mode I think I need:

"#14: Connect the GREEN or BROWN wire to a pulsed output source. Connect the BLUE or WHITE wire to a device being controlled. Upon seeing a user programmable number of pulses within a user programmable number of seconds, the BLUE and WHITE outputs will pulse once. Example, if you programmed the PTR7 to see 4 pulses within 7 seconds, then for every 4 pulses the PTR7 sees within 7 seconds, the outputs will pulse once."

So you would hook up the BROWN wire (- trigger) on the PTR7 to 2nd channel wire created by the progressive door lock mod. Then you would hook the WHITE or ORANGE (- 150ma out) to the RED/WHITE trigger on the 530t. Then you would program the box to watch for 2 pulses within 4-5 seconds.

The end result would be that the windows only roll down if you hit the unlock button twice within 5 seconds. This you would typically only do from the remote when you want to roll down the windows -- though it would still be possible to do from the power door buttons in the doors, it's pretty unlikely someone would hit their unlock button twice in a row. You can tap the door unlock button and it would just unlock the door now, and no longer roll down the windows.

Hopefully this will also filter out the phantom pulse coming in somewhere with the shifter auto-locking mod in certain circumstances.

What do you guys think... does this sound logical?

 

Ok, I believe the issue with the shifter locking should be fixed ... in the wiring diagram I had listed the 452t power source as being switched - going to a constant source allows the door locks to still work when the car is off. The unpowered module must have been effecting them.

I got a suggestion to use a RAP ... retained accessory power ... source for the relay on the 530t. This would allow you to still use the the locks when the car is off, until the doors are opened. I tapped into the pink wire on the factory stereo harness.

However I'm still having the problem ... even when the relay is being powered by a simple switched source (or when I open the door from a RAP source) the windows automatically roll down when power is lost. I can't figure out why ... I'm going into the red/white 530t wire (- auxiliary input) between 87a and 30, and than 85 GND, 86 switched/RAP 12v.

I did cut the wires on the 452t out to the door locks to make sure that wasn't somehow affecting it

Any suggestions?

 

I did some experimenting, and it's not so much the relay ... even without the relay if I just connect the 2nd channel wire to 530t input it also rolls down the window. It seems just making the connection is enough to make it trigger ... which happens whenever the relay changes state. Any thoughts?

 

I did a little more research and found something interesting about the neutral safety switch setup. The orange/black wire has power whenever the BCM is not "asleep" because it also controls the hatch release. That's why you get weird results when the ignition is off. I suggest you change the relay wiring so that instead of the coil (85 & 86) being inline in the orange/black wire, you use an ignition controlled power source on 86 and then just tap 85 into the orange/black wire. That way the relay will disengage as soon as you turn off the ignition and there won't be continuing power keeping them locked (and disabling the door switches) after you shut off the ignition.

I just got the schematics for the 530T so I'll have a look at them (and the how-to thread) to see if I can find what's causing the interaction with the locks.