Re-routing fuse to a different spot on the fuse box? -Mine Melted
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My COURTESY Fuse #8 Melted last night as I accidentally grounded my wire in my Dome Light while I was putting a LED in the dome light. I don't know why the fuse didn't blow but the power kept going and then I started see smoke pouring out of my vents. I raced around in panic mode and quickly got my battery disconnected. I just about had my car of fire w/o insurance!
After having a heart attack... Does anyone know how to re-route my wires from the back of the fuse box to a new location on it? Im thinking on moving my #8 COURTESY to Spot #3 STG WHL CNTRL.
What wires do I need to move to make it function? or should I get a new fuse box.
Last edited by blackops22; 06-06-2008 at 08:49 PM.
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Sorry to say...you've got bigger problems than you think. The COURTESY fuse doesn't directly power the map lights and dome light. It provides power to the BCM which then controls the courtesy lights by turning the power on or off and varying the ground to produce the theater dimming effect. If the fuse didn't blow, it's quite possible you have a fried BCM.
As far as moving the fuse...the output from the COURTESY fuse is on an orange wire but the input is internal to the fuse panel (there's no separate power supply wire - it shares power input with several circuits). I suppose you could tap into a battery (constant) power wire somewhere else and wire it to the orange output wire using an inline fuse but using another fuse position in the panel is not a good option.
As far as moving the fuse...the output from the COURTESY fuse is on an orange wire but the input is internal to the fuse panel (there's no separate power supply wire - it shares power input with several circuits). I suppose you could tap into a battery (constant) power wire somewhere else and wire it to the orange output wire using an inline fuse but using another fuse position in the panel is not a good option.
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I actually just did get some of the melted plastic out of there and got the fuse back in there perfectly. However, im getting no response from any of the courtesy connections at all.
Whitebird, is my BCM fried if I still can press my key fob and the outside lights go on or does this mean its good. My doors dont lock but the locking and unlocking lights go on when you hit the button on the key fob.
Whitebird, is my BCM fried if I still can press my key fob and the outside lights go on or does this mean its good. My doors dont lock but the locking and unlocking lights go on when you hit the button on the key fob.
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The BCM controls several body-related functions - keyless entry, VATS, alarm, chimes, retained accessory power, power locks, hatch release, and interior lights. If all of those are working then it's safe to assume the BCM is undamaged. If only one or two circuits aren't working, it's still possible the BCM is okay and there's some other problem with those circuits.
The BCM has four power inputs...two battery (one of which is from the COURTESY fuse), one ignition, and one accessory. The battery power from the COURTESY fuse is used in several of those circuits. I would recommend checking that you have power on that input wire (orange wire in the black 6-pin connector) to make sure that the wire from the fuse panel hasn't been damaged.
The BCM has four power inputs...two battery (one of which is from the COURTESY fuse), one ignition, and one accessory. The battery power from the COURTESY fuse is used in several of those circuits. I would recommend checking that you have power on that input wire (orange wire in the black 6-pin connector) to make sure that the wire from the fuse panel hasn't been damaged.
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Okay so far everything works (door locks, trunk, ect) except for all the interior lights. Which include the glove box light, map lights, and mirror lights (where all the LED's were put in). I don't know if it is the BCM or LED's, but the LED's in the glove box and map lights give off really low light. And if I put in the stock map light bulbs I get no light at all. I then tested the map lights and Im getting full power 11 dc/ac to them. I think my BCM is toast.
I was trying to locate it but haven't yet, whats the easiest way at getting at it? I was trying to scope it out with the flashlight through the glovebox area. Do you think the BCM is shot or could I fix it somehow (ie re-solder broken parts). How hard is it to re-program a used BCM to my car? Why does it have to be my VIN and car info in it?
Thank-you for the help.
I was trying to locate it but haven't yet, whats the easiest way at getting at it? I was trying to scope it out with the flashlight through the glovebox area. Do you think the BCM is shot or could I fix it somehow (ie re-solder broken parts). How hard is it to re-program a used BCM to my car? Why does it have to be my VIN and car info in it?
Thank-you for the help.
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You'll find the BCM mounted to the ductwork under the dash behind the glovebox. It's a black box about the size of a paperback with three connectors plugged into it.
If you need a replacement then you should buy a new one. A new BCM will program itself to your ignition key the first time it is used. This programming can only be done once - a used BCM can not be reprogrammed to match your key. That gives you a 1 in 15 chance that a used one will match your existing key. Of course, you could install a used one and do a VATS bypass to eliminate the key problem.
The part number for the BCM is 9353691.
If you need a replacement then you should buy a new one. A new BCM will program itself to your ignition key the first time it is used. This programming can only be done once - a used BCM can not be reprogrammed to match your key. That gives you a 1 in 15 chance that a used one will match your existing key. Of course, you could install a used one and do a VATS bypass to eliminate the key problem.
The part number for the BCM is 9353691.
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If that much current flowed I would not be surprised if some wiring is cooked. The BCM could still be OK perhaps, just the wiring to the lights cooked. If everything works fine except the interior lighting then I'd be checking the wiring for it all first. For example, be sure you are getting power out of the fuse location that cooked.