Sub/amp help!!!
Sub/amp help!!! I'm sure this has been covered many times here but I haven't found the direct answer for a "modern stereo ignorant person" such as myself. I'll give the background and then the two part question.
'01 WS6 T/A w/monsoon
factory sail panel subs replaced with 2ohm Infinity coax per crutchfield recommendation
Looking to add two 12" subs in rear with mono amp
?1. How do I get signal to the amp for the new subs? Would the PAC AOEM-GM21C be the easy ticket or do I simply need a line converter? If the line converter, what lines will I be connecting it to?
?2. Can I tie the Infinity's to the factory system on a full range mode rather than low only while maintaining the other factory speakers as is?
Thanks for any help. Last system I put in was in a '77 T/A and was much simpler.
'01 WS6 T/A w/monsoon
factory sail panel subs replaced with 2ohm Infinity coax per crutchfield recommendation
Looking to add two 12" subs in rear with mono amp
?1. How do I get signal to the amp for the new subs? Would the PAC AOEM-GM21C be the easy ticket or do I simply need a line converter? If the line converter, what lines will I be connecting it to?
?2. Can I tie the Infinity's to the factory system on a full range mode rather than low only while maintaining the other factory speakers as is?
Thanks for any help. Last system I put in was in a '77 T/A and was much simpler.
Line level converter will do fine with the stock HU to get a signal to your amp. Just use the signal from the speaker outputs on the back of the Monsoon CD player.
Crutchfield doesn't know squat about F-bodies. Return the Infinity's as they will not work in your sail panels. I am so sick of Crutchfield recommending stuff that doesn't work in that application. It FITS in that location but it doesn not WORK in that location. AARRRGG!! As mentioned your sail panels are bass only subwoofers and the speaker that Crutchfield recommended is a full range speaker. Not even close.
As for tieing them in to make them work in that area you can unhook the rear hatch speakers and run speaker wire from there to the sail panels to make them work as full range. That's about your only option for full range sound from that location and still retaining the factory amp.
Edit: Just saw you bought the Infinity 2ohm versions. The rear hatch speakers are 4ohm so using the hatch signal to push them could damage your amp potentially. Just a thought.
Crutchfield doesn't know squat about F-bodies. Return the Infinity's as they will not work in your sail panels. I am so sick of Crutchfield recommending stuff that doesn't work in that application. It FITS in that location but it doesn not WORK in that location. AARRRGG!! As mentioned your sail panels are bass only subwoofers and the speaker that Crutchfield recommended is a full range speaker. Not even close.
As for tieing them in to make them work in that area you can unhook the rear hatch speakers and run speaker wire from there to the sail panels to make them work as full range. That's about your only option for full range sound from that location and still retaining the factory amp.
Edit: Just saw you bought the Infinity 2ohm versions. The rear hatch speakers are 4ohm so using the hatch signal to push them could damage your amp potentially. Just a thought.
Sorry to be so troublesome, but like I said I'm lost on modern stereo where I'm not replacing everything.
I wouldn't wire them in series with the hatch speakers. You would be adding even more load to those channels and considerably reduce the output to those speakers. Even with 2 2ohm speakers why waste your money and do 2 speakers off of only one channel. I try to tell myself "just do it right the first time". If you plan on "upgrading" you sound system then don't take any shortcuts because it will probably sound worse than it did stock. I would just return the infinitys and use the factory speakers for now with the new subwoofers. Also, if you are planning on running 2 subwoofers off of a single channel amp I hope you are either doing a 2ohm series connection or a 4ohm parallel connection.
The speaker outputs are what comes out of the stock head unit and to your factory amp/speakers. Look at the monsoon sticky at the top of the forum and you will see which wires are associated to which channels/speakers.
The speaker outputs are what comes out of the stock head unit and to your factory amp/speakers. Look at the monsoon sticky at the top of the forum and you will see which wires are associated to which channels/speakers.
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Milford, CT
If your stock ails aren't blown yet then keep them there. as for the amp splice a wire from your rear deck straight to the high input to the amp. depending on mono-2-4ch amp suggest 2ch bridged. (keeping in mind amp/speaker specs)
if your going bigger later on this will help you for the short term. theres a lot of us that have our set this way some guys opt to change out the whole system, but I don't know why unless your going for big sound and power.
if your going bigger later on this will help you for the short term. theres a lot of us that have our set this way some guys opt to change out the whole system, but I don't know why unless your going for big sound and power.
Stock sails were blown, hence the Infinity's. Current thought process is the subs (two DVC 12's at 2ohm per coil wired for a total 2ohm load). Each speaker is rated at 600rms and the amp I'm looking at is 1100x1 rms at 2 ohm giving each sub 550 rms. For the future I'm looking at an amp that is 110x4 at 4ohm to power the factory speaker locations. My thought was to replace the door and hatch speakers with 4ohm in the door and 2ohm in the hatch. I could then tie the Infinitys to the hatch in series to give an all around 4 ohm load. Basically, I want to upgrade slowly as $'s allow
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,328
Likes: 344
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Hasn't anybody noticed that Crutchfield recommend 2-ohm sail panel speakers for a T/A? The Firebird has 4-ohm DVC sail panel subs - the Crutchfield people must have been thinking of the 2-ohm sail panel speakers in Camaros. Those 2-ohm Infinities are quite capable of destroying your Monsoon amp when you crank up the volume.
Yes, technically you could wire 2-ohm hatch speakers in series with the 2-ohm sail panel speakers but you won't like the results. The Monsoon amp has eight channels but they're not equally balanced in output. Wiring as you suggest will eliminate two channels on each side (the DVC sub channels) and run two speakers on each side off of the underpowered hatch channels that were designed only for rear fill.
Yes, technically you could wire 2-ohm hatch speakers in series with the 2-ohm sail panel speakers but you won't like the results. The Monsoon amp has eight channels but they're not equally balanced in output. Wiring as you suggest will eliminate two channels on each side (the DVC sub channels) and run two speakers on each side off of the underpowered hatch channels that were designed only for rear fill.
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Many thanks to all for the great info. Whitebird's sticky is priceless information!
One last query and I'll try to put this to bed. If I'm sitting in the car with the mono amp, the line converter, and the hu pulled, which speaker outputs do I tie into with the converter to best suit the mono amp? Color ID would be great. I'm sure this has an answer that is very elementary and I should know it, but I've never dealt with adding such to a factory hu. Thanks again for all the help.
One last query and I'll try to put this to bed. If I'm sitting in the car with the mono amp, the line converter, and the hu pulled, which speaker outputs do I tie into with the converter to best suit the mono amp? Color ID would be great. I'm sure this has an answer that is very elementary and I should know it, but I've never dealt with adding such to a factory hu. Thanks again for all the help.
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