Wiring question using an amp and 6 speakers...
Wiring question using an amp and 6 speakers... I am going to purchase the JVC Arsenal KD-ADV49 head unit (probably off of ebay, cause that is the cheapest I've found them). I don't plan on using a big sub, but do plan on running all six speakers which includes the 6.5" subs in the back seat (should be enough base for my taste). I also plan on using the pre-outs from the HU to a 4 channel amp to power them. My question is, how do I wire the 6.5" subs and the rear hatch speakers together? Do I run all 4 wires from same outputs on the amp? Would that cut the power to each speaker in half? I did a search and couldn't really find what I was looking for or maybe I just didn't search using the right words. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
ok. soo... the question is... can you wire all six speakers from just the one amp....? and still get full pwoer? if those are right, then the answer is yes you can, but no you wont get full power to all speakers... i would assume.. dont qoute me on this but if lets say its a 1400 watt amp... with 4 outputs. its prolly running like 350 to each of the 4 speakers when all hooked up. but with six i would imagine... splicing the speaker outputs for the other 2... would cause 2 speakers to run at 350 each... then the other four to all run at 175 each.... just a guess tho. i dont kno the exact work of currents and what not, but learning. lol. i would say get a 2 channel amp for the 2 6.5 in subs. and run them from the second amp. just my .02 hope it helps some...
actually, you really cant do it. i mean you can, but it wont work right. most speakers (non-subs) are 4 ohms. so if you run two to each channel then they will run as 2 ohms, which might overwork the amp.
your best bet is to run the fronts and rears off the amp, and then the far rears off the rear channels of the deck, or dont run far rears at all.
your best bet is to run the fronts and rears off the amp, and then the far rears off the rear channels of the deck, or dont run far rears at all.
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
The amp had better be 2-ohm stable because the door speakers and the sail panel subs (in a Camaro) are 2-ohm.
One possibilty would be to use a crossover to treat the sail panel subs and the hatch speakers as a component set but running the hatch speakers off the head unit just for rear fill is probably a better idea.
One possibilty would be to use a crossover to treat the sail panel subs and the hatch speakers as a component set but running the hatch speakers off the head unit just for rear fill is probably a better idea.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Of course, there's no real good reason to change the amp but keep the factory speakers. Basically, that's spending money for no gain.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
As a 97 (30th anniversary), it would have Monsoon rather than Bose - I'm guessing it's a 97 based on the avatar.
You're right about the filtering which is why I suggested adding a crossover. But running factory speakers off an aftermarket amp is a bad idea even with a crossover.
You're right about the filtering which is why I suggested adding a crossover. But running factory speakers off an aftermarket amp is a bad idea even with a crossover.
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I agree he will gain nothing running factory speakers off an aftermarket amp. and i ment to say monsoon not bose lol. Basically his rear hatch speakers will blow from the lows and his monsoon subs will sound like garbage from being ran full range
only car ive ever had good results with stock speakers and aftermarket amp was an audi a4. car had bose system with 2 ohm speakers and we were putting aftermarket headunit in amp and speakers. we spliced in at factory amp for speaker wires and the stock speakers on the aftermarket amp with aftermarket radio actually sounded amazing especially compared to the stock bose amp. We then ripped the bose speakers out a week later and put the nice stuff in lol
only car ive ever had good results with stock speakers and aftermarket amp was an audi a4. car had bose system with 2 ohm speakers and we were putting aftermarket headunit in amp and speakers. we spliced in at factory amp for speaker wires and the stock speakers on the aftermarket amp with aftermarket radio actually sounded amazing especially compared to the stock bose amp. We then ripped the bose speakers out a week later and put the nice stuff in lol
Sorry, I guess I should have clarified. I plan on replacing all the speakers as well. Nothing Monsoon related will be left. New HU, new speakers, and new amp. I want good sound, but I don't need tons of base so I figured keeping the set up the way it is now with 6 speakers would be best.
It is a '97. It does not say Monsoon anywhere, but I'm pretty sure that is what's in there.
It is a '97. It does not say Monsoon anywhere, but I'm pretty sure that is what's in there.
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were u going to put coaxials in the rear seat locations or midbass subs
IMO ditch the rear hatch speakers all together they really arent doing anything for you or just run them off headunit power
with that said as long as you are running coaxials in the rear seat location and the hatch you can combine them and run them off the rear channels of the amp just double up the wires under the screw terminals so to say. You amp will put out more power since its a 2ohm load then divide that in half for actual power to the speakers. Still though I wouldnt do hatch at all
IMO ditch the rear hatch speakers all together they really arent doing anything for you or just run them off headunit power
with that said as long as you are running coaxials in the rear seat location and the hatch you can combine them and run them off the rear channels of the amp just double up the wires under the screw terminals so to say. You amp will put out more power since its a 2ohm load then divide that in half for actual power to the speakers. Still though I wouldnt do hatch at all
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
You don't get any bass out of the hatch speakers anyway - they're only 4" speakers. You will probably get somewhat less bass out of the coaxial speakers in the sail panels than the factory subs merely because coaxials are more of a mid-range/mid-bass speaker than a sub. You might consider putting a good 6.5" sub in the sail panels. Check with Kee Audio - he has some really nice CDT speakers that will fit there and give you decent bass.
Aahhhh man, I know how to spell BASS. I do that all the time. Ok then, so lets say I go with coax speakers up front (mostly because I don't want to hack up the plastic for tweaters), 6.5 subs in the sails and 4 inch coax in the hatch. Am I cutting the power in half to all of the speakers in the rear of the car? If so, I still gonna get good sound?
Sorry for all of the questions, it's been about 14 years since I messed with car audio stuff and it looks like things have come a long way in that time.
Sorry for all of the questions, it's been about 14 years since I messed with car audio stuff and it looks like things have come a long way in that time.
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you CANT do rear subs and coax in the hatch because you need to run a lowpass filter on your amp for the subs which basically means then ur hatch speakers are only playing bass and they will blow. you could use some sort of external crossover but it wont sound good. run the hatch speakers if you insist on using them off of the headunit and not the amp
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,330
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
pentavolvo is right - the hatch speakers should be no more than rear fill, not a primary sound source. Running them off the head unit speaker output should be plenty for rear fill, leaving the four amp channels for doors and sail panels.
If you would prefer components in the doors, CDT makes a component set that mounts coaxially like the factory ones.
If you would prefer components in the doors, CDT makes a component set that mounts coaxially like the factory ones.
