Turn signals stay solid...
Turn signals stay solid... I just finished washing my car, and I noticed that my turn signals all stay lit. *both sides, front, and back* I changed the fuse, and nothing. The emergency lights work fine, and so do the reverse lights. But what I did notice is that when I turn the left/right signal the front left/right signal dims, then turns solid. What may this be?
its your flasher... very easy fix. part costs about 4 dollars and you can change it in 10 minutes.. its under the panel under your steering wheel. PM me or AIM me if u have questions... i went through this in november of last year.
Doug
so its not the flasher. what are the right blubs? i might aswell just buy two, and be done with it. so it might not be the socket, or housing? just the blubs itself? does that mean i won't have to worry about checking the rear taillight blubs?
Not! He said the flashers still work so it's not the flasher. It's more than likey that you got water in your front blinker bulbs. Try replacing the front bulbs. This happens alot on these cars the light socket is old and brittle and leaks water especially when we wash our cars.
Doug
Doug
ill buy both the bulbs and the flasher. but what side would the flasher be on if its for the turn signals? im guessing it would be on the left, and the emergency flasher on the right?
but yeah the emergency flashers work perfectly, but the left/right turn signal flashers stay solid on the dash, and the front/rear of vehicle.
but yeah the emergency flashers work perfectly, but the left/right turn signal flashers stay solid on the dash, and the front/rear of vehicle.
I'm not totally sure which side which is on, but once you get the panel off and locate the flasher units turn on your hazards then put your hand to one of the flashers, you'll feel the element inside, it will feel like a relay clicking. Obviously, replace the one that isn't clicking.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I have to chuckle at the way everybody has a different opinion on the problem, everyone is sure they have the right answer, and yet nobody has done any diagnostics. The auto parts stores love people who throw parts at a problem without first determining the cause. 
Do your daytime running lights (DRLs) both work? Do the front parking lights both work (same bulb, dimmer filament when the headlights are on)? If so then the problem is neither the bulbs nor the sockets. If the DRLs don't work then the problem is likely the bulbs and/or sockets...a visual inspection will tell you which.
If all the bulbs work and the hazard lights also work but neither side turn signal flashes then the most likely cause is the flasher. If the front bulbs go off when using the turn signals then it could be the DRL module or the T/S switch itself but you said that they stay on solid. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash panel just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is a standard 2-prong flasher available just about anywhere (including Wal-Mart).
Do your daytime running lights (DRLs) both work? Do the front parking lights both work (same bulb, dimmer filament when the headlights are on)? If so then the problem is neither the bulbs nor the sockets. If the DRLs don't work then the problem is likely the bulbs and/or sockets...a visual inspection will tell you which.
If all the bulbs work and the hazard lights also work but neither side turn signal flashes then the most likely cause is the flasher. If the front bulbs go off when using the turn signals then it could be the DRL module or the T/S switch itself but you said that they stay on solid. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash panel just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is a standard 2-prong flasher available just about anywhere (including Wal-Mart).
I just finished washing my car, and I noticed that my turn signals all stay lit. *both sides, front, and back* I changed the fuse, and nothing. The emergency lights work fine, and so do the reverse lights. But what I did notice is that when I turn the left/right signal the front left/right signal dims, then turns solid. What may this be?
I have to chuckle at the way everybody has a different opinion on the problem, everyone is sure they have the right answer, and yet nobody has done any diagnostics. The auto parts stores love people who throw parts at a problem without first determining the cause.
Do your daytime running lights (DRLs) both work? Do the front parking lights both work (same bulb, dimmer filament when the headlights are on)? If so then the problem is neither the bulbs nor the sockets. If the DRLs don't work then the problem is likely the bulbs and/or sockets...a visual inspection will tell you which.
If all the bulbs work and the hazard lights also work but neither side turn signal flashes then the most likely cause is the flasher. If the front bulbs go off when using the turn signals then it could be the DRL module or the T/S switch itself but you said that they stay on solid. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash panel just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is a standard 2-prong flasher available just about anywhere (including Wal-Mart).
Do your daytime running lights (DRLs) both work? Do the front parking lights both work (same bulb, dimmer filament when the headlights are on)? If so then the problem is neither the bulbs nor the sockets. If the DRLs don't work then the problem is likely the bulbs and/or sockets...a visual inspection will tell you which.
If all the bulbs work and the hazard lights also work but neither side turn signal flashes then the most likely cause is the flasher. If the front bulbs go off when using the turn signals then it could be the DRL module or the T/S switch itself but you said that they stay on solid. The turn signal flasher is clipped to the back side of the dash panel just to the right of the opening when you remove the knee panel under the steering column. It is a standard 2-prong flasher available just about anywhere (including Wal-Mart).
The very first sentence says it all. The chances that the flasher just went bad right after he washed his car are pretty slim.When you wash a fbody your turn signals get wet period.
Could it be the flasher? sure but not likely
Is it the bulbs? most likely!
If you replace the coils on your car and the car wont start do you first drop the tank and change the fuel pump?
To the op the rears are most likely fine.
Doug
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
According to the original post, the lights work - they just don't flash. If that is the case then it can't be the bulbs or the sockets. Let me see...lights go on...but since my signals don't flash the bulb MUST be burned out...even though I can see that it's on. Doh!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Oh, I'm not saying that your T/S sockets don't need replacing. I'm just saying that they are not the cause of this particular problem since your lights work. Our cars have a tendency to get water in the front lamp housing causing corrosion in the sockets. This corrosion causes the bulbs to not illuminate. Sometimes you can clean the sockets with contact cleaner and then use dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion. Other times the corrosion is bad enough that the only fix is to replace the sockets.
So saying that it might not be the sockets? But since the bulbs do light cuz it just may be the bulbs then? Also I dont hear the flasher "clicking"...
Note: My sylvania turn signal bulbs pretty much look new.
Note: My sylvania turn signal bulbs pretty much look new.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
I'm saying that since the bulbs light up, it's neither the bulbs nor the sockets causing the problem. If either the bulbs or the sockets were faulty then the bulbs wouldn't light up.
Now, bear in mind that the bulbs are dual-filament. They have a bright filament for DRLs and turn signals and a separate dim filament for parking lights. Either filament can burn out without affecting the other. So, it's possible to say the lights go on (with the parking lights or when the alarm arms) but still have burned out bulbs that won't illuminate for the DRLs or turn signals. But if the DRLs work then the problem can't be with the bulbs or sockets.
Now, bear in mind that the bulbs are dual-filament. They have a bright filament for DRLs and turn signals and a separate dim filament for parking lights. Either filament can burn out without affecting the other. So, it's possible to say the lights go on (with the parking lights or when the alarm arms) but still have burned out bulbs that won't illuminate for the DRLs or turn signals. But if the DRLs work then the problem can't be with the bulbs or sockets.
Now my DRL dont work, signals inside and out stay lit, and no clicking from the flasher relay...I think Im about to just take it to my mechanic. And have him deal with it.
Haha wow, my mechanic is a total douche. So anyways Im going to go buy the flasher later today, but I just cant seem to find it even if my life counted on it, I wouldnt be able to. If anyone can plus give me a step by step on where to find the turn signal flasher, how to remove it, and install a new one. I really need to get my car up and running as soon as I can. Thanks.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,331
Likes: 346
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Okay...if your DRLs aren't working, that will cause the remaining turn signals (rear and inside) to go on solid and not flash. The flasher requires a certain amount of current flow to make and break the circuit (flash) and a non-functioning bulb will reduce the current flow enough to make it stop flashing. That brings us full circle back to the problem being the bulbs or the sockets. That also suggests that washing the car caused water to get into the lamp housings and either burn out the bulbs or damage the sockets. I suspect the bulbs because cold water will damage hot bulbs and socket corrosion takes time. This is different than the original diagnosis because you originally said the front lights still worked.
Since there's no easy way to test bulbs (other than plugging them into another socket) I suggest you get new bulbs, some contact cleaner, and some dielectric grease. Clean the sockets of as much junk as possible, smear in a liberal amount of dielectric grease, and install the new bulbs. That should take care of the problem for now. New sockets would extend the life but they will corrode as well if you don't fix the housings to keep water from settling in them.
Since there's no easy way to test bulbs (other than plugging them into another socket) I suggest you get new bulbs, some contact cleaner, and some dielectric grease. Clean the sockets of as much junk as possible, smear in a liberal amount of dielectric grease, and install the new bulbs. That should take care of the problem for now. New sockets would extend the life but they will corrode as well if you don't fix the housings to keep water from settling in them.
Great diagnostic skills!
According to the original post, the lights work - they just don't flash. If that is the case then it can't be the bulbs or the sockets. Let me see...lights go on...but since my signals don't flash the bulb MUST be burned out...even though I can see that it's on. Doh!
According to the original post, the lights work - they just don't flash. If that is the case then it can't be the bulbs or the sockets. Let me see...lights go on...but since my signals don't flash the bulb MUST be burned out...even though I can see that it's on. Doh!
Okay...if your DRLs aren't working, that will cause the remaining turn signals (rear and inside) to go on solid and not flash. The flasher requires a certain amount of current flow to make and break the circuit (flash) and a non-functioning bulb will reduce the current flow enough to make it stop flashing. That brings us full circle back to the problem being the bulbs or the sockets. That also suggests that washing the car caused water to get into the lamp housings and either burn out the bulbs or damage the sockets. I suspect the bulbs because cold water will damage hot bulbs and socket corrosion takes time. This is different than the original diagnosis because you originally said the front lights still worked.
Since there's no easy way to test bulbs (other than plugging them into another socket) I suggest you get new bulbs, some contact cleaner, and some dielectric grease. Clean the sockets of as much junk as possible, smear in a liberal amount of dielectric grease, and install the new bulbs. That should take care of the problem for now. New sockets would extend the life but they will corrode as well if you don't fix the housings to keep water from settling in them.
Since there's no easy way to test bulbs (other than plugging them into another socket) I suggest you get new bulbs, some contact cleaner, and some dielectric grease. Clean the sockets of as much junk as possible, smear in a liberal amount of dielectric grease, and install the new bulbs. That should take care of the problem for now. New sockets would extend the life but they will corrode as well if you don't fix the housings to keep water from settling in them.
