01_torch_red_vette

iTrader: (2)

hey man i have a JL stealthbox with the 10w3 still in it in my garage from when i sold my 97... i would imagine it would fit in your 02. i dont think they ever changed that cubby it sits in. anyways the only reason i took it out of the car is because the kid was a few hundred shy of what i wanted when i sold it. i bought it back in 02, but the car never saw winters and im not a big fan of blasting the bass. i just liked having i nice crisp sub that wasnt overpowering. anyways let me know if you are interested.

edit: oh yeah, as far as what sub to run with the amp.. as long as the gain is not up to high i would imagine it would be fine. i had a rockford amp that i got a good deal on pushing that sub, i wanna say it was 250 watt

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

he posted those side-by-side pics to show the difference in build quality, not just for aesthetic value. it's pretty clear that the CDT has a larger magnet and a stronger cast basket, vs. JL's stamped-steel basket and smaller magnet. granted, that doesn't always tell the whole story, but judging by those pics, there's a significant difference, nonetheless.

and as far as "There is a reason why so many IASCA cars have JL's".....that's not even a valid argument. there are a wide range of different subs that JL makes, and obviously, not all of them are of the same quality, or built for the same purpose. that's like saying it's ok to buy a Chevy Aveo to race because the Corvette is such a badass car....i mean, after all, they're both built by Chevy, right? you need to include the make/model in that statement for it to hold any weight whatsoever.

don't get me wrong, i personally really like JL Audio products, but that's not going to stop me from weighing all the pros/cons between a JL product and another one i'm considering, just because one of them has the JL logo on it.

deejaydaze

iTrader: (11)

Is there seriously enough depth to put that SE10 D4 in a stealth box?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

RE se 10s only need 6" mounting depth, Fi Q 10s 6.5" and my ID max 10s need7.625" which fit fine in my 2 stealth boxes.

dragonrage

Those don't mean much at all.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

that really depends on the application.

for normal "everyday" people, it really doesn't mean anything, and can actually be seen as detrimental, since cast basket & larger magnet = more weight, which is bad for people wanting to keep the weight down in their car.

but for people who are pushing things to the limit, a cast basket means less flex, which equates to more movement of the cone itself, which equals more output. a larger magnet will usually also help serve to control that extra movement, which can equate to higher accuracy at those output levels.

granted, not all subs are created equal, so that doesn't always apply, but the general theory behind it is sound.

dragonrage

JL's baskets do not have any notable flex. Just because something is technically better does not mean it is necessary.

As far as a stronger magnet goes, that changes the Thiele/Small parameters of a speaker, and actually, a strong magnet tends to improve a driver at HIGHER frequency. Also, there are lots of really low quality drivers (check Ebay) with HUGE magnets to sucker people into buying them.

Seanh

And the RF subs are two steps below the Alpine's. Actually the Type X is a decent driver, the Type R is a fart machine though.

Either way, ALL of the drivers you are looking at are too nice for a pre-fab box. You'd be WAY better off to put more of your budget into a real enclosure designed for a driver you select than to do it the other way around. The box really, really, really affects the response of the sub.