Dragon-LS1

iTrader: (12)

I ran a best pass of 12.25 @ 115. My 60ft was 1.88
My engine is stock. Here are the things I used to get me to a 12 low second pass::
Pacesetter longtube headers. (No cats) Custom 3" true dual exhaust X-pipe with Bullet mufflers. Turndowns right before the rear axel.
Spec Stage 3 racing clutch. Bulldog 17lb flywheel. McLeod adjustable clutch master cylinder.
1 step colder NGK platinum plugs with Nology Hotwires.
125 wet shot of nitrous (ZEX) with purge. (Soon to be 150) I run the spray through 2nd, 3rd & 4th (if needed)
I had Drag Radials at the time, but it was my first time with them. I was running horrible launches.
My 12.25 run, I bogged bad on the take off. The rest I spun through.
I could not find a good launch RPM.
I know for a fact I can get into the 11.90's without changing anything mechanicly. Just fine tuning my driving and launching. I have learned how to shift with nitrous. I used to always let off the gas completely for fear of damage to my engine.

If anyone would like to offer some advice on my driving, please have at it.
When I get my 11 second run, I'll post back!!

Here's a scan of my time slip.


Here's a scan of my 12.69 run (same day)


Thanks!!!

AOC

How is your engine stock with all those mods???

I could see you making a statement of "Stock Internal" but noway your motor is stock.

Dragon-LS1

iTrader: (12)

Hmm....
I was saying that my engine is stock because it IS.
I have not modified the engine in any way. I have added a few external bolt-ons.
Please explain how my MOTOR is not stock.
My CAR is not stock. But the engine is.
I am not here to debate some words with you.
Thanks for the helpful advice. lol.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

so you sprayed it on that 115 trap speed?

AOC

You have STOCK INTERNAL. Your motor now have bolt-ons which didn't come from the factory. When you attach any after market parts to the motor to improve performance then it is no longer a stock motor, however, again, you have stock internal.

But whatever, you can call it whatever to make yourself feel good about your "stock motor". lol.

Bitemark46

Stock internal, stock longblock, same differenece. What he means is that the cam, heads, intake and shortblock are untouched.

Dragin- Get that 60'ft down some. What type of DR did you use and what was the psi at? You should be trapping higher than 115. Keep at it, you'll get into 11's easily.

-Mark

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

headers and intake are all part of the engine

juicedls1

iTrader: (9)

Get some MT DRs and launch at 4k while slippin the clutch a little should get u a good 1.7 60' keep your shifts at no less than 5,800 on the bottle to help your trap speed out!

SScam68

iTrader: (20)

ditch the drag radials and get some slicks.

You 11 sec slip lays in your 60'

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Hmmm, I run 12.3s@113 WITHOUT the juice.......

Havok2

iTrader: (118)

yup

i run 12.3 on stock motor and no juice

Smokinstorm

iTrader: (5)

Quick question? Was the 12.69 pass "on the motor", i.e. no N20 used during the pass? Sorry to be so specific but everyone seems to have a slightly different view of things so..... BTW, in my book the original poster's car is SI, not stock motor'd. Just my way of calling it though it might be exactly the same thing.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

+1...but i'm slow.

Dragon-LS1

iTrader: (12)

Ok. I agree that the external bolt-ons make the motor no longer stock. So I will change my statement to stock internals.

I have an N/A Trans Am. It's a 2001, so I know it has the LS6 intake manifold.
But I got the car with 48k miles. I know it wasnt very well taken care of.
The day I ran this 12.25 was also my first time ever using DR's. They were BF Goodrich. (I dont know what model or anything. I barrowed them from a friend.)
But I will be in the high 11's then next time I run my car at the track.
I'll keep everyone informed.

Yes that 12.69 run was on spray, but I spun through first and second. (Didnt have a launch point yet.)

I am on stock gears. I need 4:10's.
Someone mentioned slicks.. NO WAY!!! Not on my stock 10-bolt rear end. DR's only.
I already broke my Posi. lol.

Thanks for all the advice, everyone!!!

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

FWIW when I still had the stock 3.42s, tires, and only exhaust and lid I ran 11.87@120 on a 1.95 short time with the NOS 5177 dry kit. You SHOULD be trapping higher as well as running 11's IMHO, especially with that 1.8x 60ft.

About needing 4.10s? No, if you want to run the juice like you are now you will run out of gear until you get either a cam and aftermarket valvetrain where you will be able to rev 4th out further, or go with taller tires.

This is the very reason that I don't have times with the juice since the gear, clutch, and DRs install. I cross the traps now with the shift lite on in 4th as is on motor

Bitemark46

No they are not. Pick up a summit magazine or any other catalog that sells high performance v8 engines. When you see a shortblock( block with rotating assembly) it doesn't come with the heads, intake, or headers. Now when you see a longblock (shortblock plus heads and valvetrain) it doesn't have headers or an intake (typically) on it. So when someone says a stock longblock it means just the main components that make up the motor.

-Mark

Dragon-LS1

iTrader: (12)

What shot were you running? (HP shot? Kit manufacturer?)
Your car is a RAM AIR WS6. It comes with a bit more power then mine to start with.
When I refered to the 4:10's, I didnt mean I NEED them. I meant that I wanted them.
As for right now, I shift into 4th just before the line. If I dont I'll reline. I also shift at 5500 rpms. I dont want motor damage from the spray in case I rev limit.
I know I SHOULD be trapping higher.. and running 11's. That's why I said that I will be in the 11's with the exact setup I have now. I just need to adjust my launching/shifting.
I bought an aftermarket Tach with a shift light so I dont have to watch the stock tach for a specific RPM to shift at.
I just need someone to tell me what wire coming out of my ECU is the one I attach the lead wire to. My Tach is a cheapy Sunpro. I didnt buy it for the Tach, I got it for the light. I have a friend customizing me a "stealth" multi-stage light kit.
It will do the following. A set of lights will come on at a preset RPM for launch.
Then a seperate (or the same) set of lights will come on and flash for me to shift into each gear.
The best part of all is that noone will be able to see it unless it's lit up.
But for now, I have to use the Ricer-style 5" tach with shiftlight. lol.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

yeah that mph is kinda weak something isn't right...should be at least in the 120's

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

1. Ram Air has nothing to do with me being faster than you.
2. I believe the tach wire is the #12 pin on the closest plug for the pcm towards the front of the car, it's white.
3. Get yourself a Raptor shift-lite and set it anywhere between 5800-6000, depending on how quick you are at shifting.

TeEnAgE pHeNoM

iTrader: (6)

I thought that 115 was about right with bolt-ons and a 125 shot??