Torque Converter
#1
Torque Converter
Hey i have a questions about a tourque converter a 3600 to 4000 to be specific with a trans cooler do i have to worry about it blowing up my transmission a plus when i take off from a stop will it rev out to 3600 then just all at once release the power ? like neutral dropping it ?
#3
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No its not going to blow up. Though its a matter of time before the tranny breaks using a bigger stall. Mine lasted little over 5000 miles before it went. If you have the money I would recommend getting a built tranny to avoid the hassle.
#4
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Better Than You-I love the avatar.
GTOTKO-The stall rating on a converter is an aproximate RPM in which the converter will stop slipping and start turning the transmission at close to a 1:1 ratio.
On a stock converter (1200RPM for ex) the converter is designed to allow the transmission to stay in gear but not stall out. If you leave an M6 car in gear and come to a stop the engine dies. Prior to reaching the 1200 rpm rating the engine spins more than once for each output revolution.
With a performance converter you get slippage until a higher rpm. This allows the engine to spool up to it's power band and stay there longer.
On the street as you drive around the converter will be slipping most of the time which is why they build so much heat. The car will drive almost the same as before but below the stall rating, the Tach will act like you are driving a CVT car. When you floor it that's when the fun begins. The converter will slip to the rated rpm and get you almost instantly into your powerband.
GTOTKO-The stall rating on a converter is an aproximate RPM in which the converter will stop slipping and start turning the transmission at close to a 1:1 ratio.
On a stock converter (1200RPM for ex) the converter is designed to allow the transmission to stay in gear but not stall out. If you leave an M6 car in gear and come to a stop the engine dies. Prior to reaching the 1200 rpm rating the engine spins more than once for each output revolution.
With a performance converter you get slippage until a higher rpm. This allows the engine to spool up to it's power band and stay there longer.
On the street as you drive around the converter will be slipping most of the time which is why they build so much heat. The car will drive almost the same as before but below the stall rating, the Tach will act like you are driving a CVT car. When you floor it that's when the fun begins. The converter will slip to the rated rpm and get you almost instantly into your powerband.
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I wouldnt recommend running a big stall 3600+ on a stock trans..I would say 3600 would be the highest and safest. Now if you were to go big cam and built trans I would say do something around a 4000+
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The 4l60e were not made to handle a big stall. I have a 3200 and it took no time for it to break. Now I've seen stock tranny that had 4000 stall and last 20000 miles. Eventually the tranny will break its just a matter of when.
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#12
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FWIW I had a 4k stall in my stock trans w/ a huge tranny cooler and a transgo shift kit. I dd the car and drove the snot out of it at the track for 4 years with zero problems. It wasn't until I put a big cam in it that my 3-4 shift started slipping. Also a stall converter doesn't have the same reaction on the street as dumping a clutch everytime you take off. Like another member said it's reacts as if the engine is spooling up. So if you drive it normal it wouldn't act much different than it does now. It's only when you stomp the gas is when it stalls up. You should really take a ride in someone's car that has a lock up converter. It's definately an awesome bang for the buck. A real good converter for street/strip would be a tight 3600 stall. I really like precision industries as they have a 2 year warranty and a 2 year free restall if you decide to go bigger.
#13
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FWIW I had a 4k stall in my stock trans w/ a huge tranny cooler and a transgo shift kit. I dd the car and drove the snot out of it at the track for 4 years with zero problems. It wasn't until I put a big cam in it that my 3-4 shift started slipping. Also a stall converter doesn't have the same reaction on the street as dumping a clutch everytime you take off. Like another member said it's reacts as if the engine is spooling up. So if you drive it normal it wouldn't act much different than it does now. It's only when you stomp the gas is when it stalls up. You should really take a ride in someone's car that has a lock up converter. It's definately an awesome bang for the buck. A real good converter for street/strip would be a tight 3600 stall. I really like precision industries as they have a 2 year warranty and a 2 year free restall if you decide to go bigger.
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I wish I was lucky as you. I read a lot before I bought my stall and many people said dont by a built tranny until need one. Others said it wont last long get a built tranny. I decided to just you the stock one and I had someone put it in which cost me 250 for install. 5000 miles later mine went out and I was 70 miles from house. Thats why I recommend just doing it now.