TimE

iTrader: (8)

I forgot to install mine when I put the engine/trans/cradle back in the car. Fought with it for about 2.5-3 hours. I've bent it, cursed it, begged it, finagled it, sat back and stared at it...I'm done.

I have been reading about the complaints folks have about the Lokar but I see there is a newer, larger diameter "Anchor-Tight" that they offer. Problem is there is no listing for a 4l60 but there is for a 700r. So, I need to know if the 4l60 and 700r4 dipstick/tube will interchange. I've searched the net and it seems like they are but I don't want to drop the $$ and not be positive. Anyone know for sure?

TimE

iTrader: (8)

This is the one I'm looking at...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...1247/overview/

I think it will work.

mrvedit

I can't remember the tread now, since it was several years ago, but it a discussion about how to install/replace the 4l60e dipstick tube on a Gen-4.
The "good solution" seemed to be to have the car up on jackstands with two people working on it - one feeding from the top and the other pulling it from the bottom.

Looking at pictures of the 700R4 case versus the 4L60E case, it sure looks like the dipstick tube enters at the same location, or certainly within an inch.

I have bought a bunch of Lokar stuff - it always seems to be "more show than go" and I rarely end up using it. I would suggest trying to install the stock tube again with a helper. It might help if you remove the rear trans mount so that it hangs down a bit. Hey, just my opinion.

TimE

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the response. I would prefer to stay with the stock tube but am just highly frustrated with it (and myself!!).

I looked at several threads last night before posting and one was where Lemons stated the same, have one person up top and one below. It's still on stands from when I installed the k member as an assembly so I already have the tranny hanging(tried several heights) and got some help today. I had bent it some last night trying to install it but had it almost lined up. We pulled it back out and cut the mounting tab off as it was hanging on everything. Still couldn't get it into the trans. I had it in the same position last night by myself.

Gonna pull it again tomorrow and see if I can bend it slightly enough to get it to drop on in. I also saw someone mentioned they had cut off some length at the transmission end and got it to drop right in. May try that too. At this point, it's either blow or go. If I can get it in, I'll roll with it for now (maybe buy a new tube), otherwise not real sure.

As for Lokar quality, I had one way back on a '79 Z28 with a 454/th400 setup. It would weep around where it entered the transmission and was a pain in the butt to add fluid due to the tube diameter and adapter so I am not a big fan either. The reason I was looking at the one posted above is, according to what I have read, the diameter is larger so the adapter piece is not needed. Also, the transmission end piece enters the trans and has a threaded end with a "nut" that goes inside the pan. The tube is attached with a quick connect. Idk, just seemed like it would be better but at a buck-fifty it's sorta hard to swallow.

Just frustrated with it at this point having come this far and then forgetting to install the tube. I'm just itching to get this thing ready to crank and to the tuner...

I did search a little more on the net today and ran across a thread on a Nova site and one of the guys on there said a 700r4 dipstick would work but the level indication would need to be adjusted. That wouldn't be a problem but I hate to drop the $$ based on just one rather vague posting.

I guess if I can't get the stock tube in, I'll call Summit or Jegs and see if they can tell me if it will work for sure.

Sorry for rambling...

bbond105

Have you tried loosening the k-member bolts about half an inch?

mrvedit

You're not rambling - all good discussion which I'm sure will help others decide.

I would not cut the end of the dipstick tube as it is tapered and a cut one might not fit as well or might leak.
You may have bent it in a bad way; a new tube might be the solution.

Just FYI: while the dipstick tube for my Gen-2 isn't nearly as convoluted as for a Gen-4, I still had to bend a stock tube (for a GTO?). For this I used an electrician's pipe bender which is available at e.g. Lowes/HomeDepot for about $30. I first bent the tube straight, then bent it as I wanted it, and finally spray painted it to clean up the cracked paint.

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

I just recently did the same thing With two people it is doable. I just bent/wrapped the bracket, that bolts to the head, til it cleared and plugged in. Then reached up there and bent the bracket back in place to bolt to the head. Frustrating yes, but doable. Don't give up!

67chevelle

I've had a look at for about a year with no problems,get the funnel adapter for filling

TimE

iTrader: (8)

Ragtop--Did you lower the k-member, as was suggested above, by the bbond105? Right now I have the transmission at full droop and the coil pack removed.

Well, yesterday I tried some more...until I crimped the tube and the dipstick would not go through. I just ordered a stock replacement tube and will try loosening the K member when it gets here. Figured I'd attempt the $50 part first, now that I have hours of experience fighting with it. If that fails--Lokar, here I come!

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. I'll update with the outcome of this fiasco.

ragtopz28

iTrader: (57)

No, everything was all done, then realized the bonehead move. I removed coil pack and valve cover. Maybe if you mount trans to rear support it will free up some room between firewall. It did take some major push and pull but it went. The bracket is what was hanging up, but you said you already cut that off....

clinebarger

Why not just back the Trans off the engine, Put the Tube in place, Then work the end of the Tube in the grommet seal while raising the Trans (Use TransJel or Vasoline).

From the factory the Tube had a harness clip on it, Made it easy because the loose Tube would just hang there on the harness 'til you got the Trans in place.

TimE

iTrader: (8)

Well, I got the new GM tube and dropped it down in the general vicinity to get a look at what I needed to do. I pulled it back out and started bending the retaining tabs and the 2 small welds broke. Left the tab off, fixed the 2 holes in the tube and tried dropping it in. Could get it close but not quite there (by myself again ).

I ended up cutting the bottom off just below where the rubber grommet/seal stops. Added a little lube to the rubber to keep it from bunching up or pinching and finally got it lined up and fully seated. If the modifications cause a leak, I will post back up to let anyone interested know. Also, if it DOES leak, I will buy the Lokar that I mentioned above and put it in and go from there. (OR just let it leak until I upgrade the trans/stall to something bigger and better! )

So I'm done resolving my boneheaded mistake for now, hopefully until I need to pull the transmission back out. Thanks for the input guys!!


Just to clarify EXACTLY what I did--

The passenger coil pack and #8 plug wire were removed. I started out with the rear of transmission lowered to get it close, then ended up jacking the trans into proper position for the final line up. For me to accomplish this, without help, I removed the mounting tab (not by choice) and trimmed some off of the end of the tube. Once I had it worked into the hole I put some lube on the grommet and just kept working it until it was fully seated. With some assistance, I'm quite sure I could have gotten it in without cutting the tube but, alone, this worked for me.