WiseguyZ28

Whats the biggest stall i can do on a mostly stock car.......only FLP LT's/ORY, GMMG, Lid, CAI, and NGK's and Taylor 8mm wires.

I was originally planning on getting a cam installed in another year but i'm not so sure about it anymore because i have other things i need to do. So what is the biggest stall i can put on this car? Is a 3200 stall ok? or should i go higher/lower? I'm gonna need a tune either way i'm sure.....and i plan on puttin a transgo on at the same time. So can i go higer? and still be driveable? And not too much difference in gas consumption?

JakeY2KZ

iTrader: (9)

I've seen multiple cars with 4000+. IMO you don't want to put anything less then 3500. I learned the hard way and started with a 3200. 6 months later I was at a 3600 and about a yr after that I was at a 4200.

Go big the first time.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

But his application isn't for a "race car"...
You probably fall in the same category as me. I would go with no less than 3200 and no more than 3800 to give you a range of "mild" to "wild". While the higher ones are still driveable just fine, you take more of a hit to your mileage.

Myself, I will be going with a 3800.

JNorris

iTrader: (4)

I have had a 2800, 3200, 4000, and a 4400 stall converters in my car. I am currently running a 4000 stall but in a daily driver I would not go with a stall any larger than a 3200.
The toleration of looseness depends on the driver. I do not like a loose converter.
A 4000 is too loose for me to drive everyday in stop and go traffic.
My city gas mileage went to crap with the 4000 stall. Highway MPG did not change with any of the converters.

JakeY2KZ

iTrader: (9)

Sure but his question is what's the biggest you can put in a nearly stock car. I answered correctly. You can put 4000+ stalls in a nearly stock car and still not be considered as a "race car" and still maintain close to stock driveability. (depending on gearing) Truthfully, I didn't see any kind of driveability difference between the 3200 to 3600 to the 4200. Each one felt the same to me.

As for gas consumption, yea it's going to drop but your foot is going to be on the gas so much, it's not going to make a difference if you went with a 3200 or a 3800, etc. etc.

JakeY2KZ

iTrader: (9)

I bet your heads and cam also had a play in that as well.

JNorris

iTrader: (4)

No doubt!

I had a 4400 stall with 3.23 gears without the heads and cam and the city MPH went to crap.

Anytime you have to turn 3500rpm leaving from a stoplight just to keep up with traffic your gas mileage will suffer.

darrensls1

I'm running a 3500 with just bolt-ons and I love it. It's no where near as loose as I thought it would be. I say stick with the 3500-3800 range and you'll be a very happy camper.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

You guys converters SUCK. when i leave a stop light and leave all regular traffic behind, i'm at about 2500 rpm's. And thats in my 5,100 stall.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

And before you say its cause of weight, i have about 350 lbs of tools in my car right now (and another 50 lbs of street tires) and although it feels a little sluggish i still pull away from traffic at 2500 rpm's.

Z28_Ninja

iTrader: (2)

i think you did not feel a difference because you stepped up in increments, if you went straight to a 4000 stall you would know it in a big way. i think he is fine with a vig 3200 cause the stall higher, or like a 3400-3500 of one of the other brands with just bolt ons.

WiseguyZ28

To start my car is A4 which i forgot to mention but i'm sure u figured. But As of now i think i might go with a 3500 stall...prolly yank.....i wanna go big but i dont wanna over do it....and i know on top end, the bigger i go the more its gonna slip.....and i dont want too much of that going on. And i also have only F1 GSD3's, no drag radials....yet. So i dont wanna go too big without the matching tires for it.

And another question on slippage......if i got a higher quality Torque Converter would i get less slipping? like one of those high performance converters for bigger hp cars.....or would it not make a difference...or not enough difference to pay that much more.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

You may be confusing slippage with efficiency. Slippage is denoted by the rated stall speed of the converter; in other words, the engine will "slip" up the rpm band toward the rated stall speed, which is where an approximately 1:1 coupling ratio occurs ("stall"). Efficiency measures how close a given converter comes to actual 100% transfer of input torque to output torque across a given rpm range above the "stall" speed. A higher stall rating means the converter is going to slip more, which is described as "looseness." You're revving the engine up higher, but the car is moving less, resulting in poorer gas mileage in daily driving, and a "sluggish" feeling at light to moderate throttle. I for one would not appreciate driving a loose converter daily, but some guys love it.

Another thing to consider is the shift extension of your converter vs. the powerband of your stock car. For instance, why would you want a shift extension of 5100 when your torque peak is 4200 and your hp peak is 5700? Anyway, sorry for writing a book ...

Z28_Ninja

iTrader: (2)

a yank is a great converter and would be perfect for your car. as for the tire/traction issue, the STR has more to do with what tires/suspension mods you will need, so if you keep the str lower you will be okay on street tires for now.

C5XTASY

As mentioned earlier, I believe you're thinking efficiency on the top end, not slippage. I recently bought a Yank SS3200 which will be installed in the spring. That converter is actually more efficient than the stock converter all the way through the rpm band. Give Yank a call. They can give you the efficiencies of the different converters you may be considering. That way you can make an informed choice and be happy at both ends of the rpm band.
Ed

MNR-0

I struggle to believe a stock converter is 93% efficient. Would like to know how that was measured in order to say any high stall can be more efficient than a stock stall, all converter companies included.

WiseguyZ28

RevGTO and C5Xtasy.......ur both right, i am thinking efficiency. But then again i guess it should be fine......because i was thinkin it would be worse than a stock converter, and maybe it is but i doubt by much if any......maybe its even better?

Now can somebody explain STR to me.

Which one do u all think i should go with.....all Yank:
Super Stock 3600 (245mm, 3600 stall, 2.50STR)
Pro Yank 3400 Extreme (258mm, 3400 stall, 2.70 STR)
Pro Yank 3600 Extreme (258mm, 3600 stall, 2.30 STR)

I'll be gettin LCA's and SFC's when i do the torque converter and i'll probably buy another pair of rims to put out back with drag radials on for the summer. So with that....what STR would be a good pick?

And if i got a torque arm....how much would that help?
And what other suspension mods do u think would be good to do?

LS1SpeedAddict

iTrader: (9)

3600 stall

Z28_Ninja

iTrader: (2)

i would go with either 3600. STR= stall tourge ratio, basically how much it multiplies the torque by, the bigger the number the harder it is too hook on a stock car and suspension mods are needed. but str also helps keep the converter having a tight feel if i am not wrong? i would bet that the 2.30 str converter would be nice and be easier to hook on while still being a mean converter when you want it to be.