bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

I tryed to use the search button on this but it doesn't work.


Ok. i am fairly new to modding an ls1 overall and came across many people with these "stalls" 3500k 4000 4400 4500. I have no clue for the most part what the benifit of having one is. Besides a couple posts about how itll shoot you into your TQ band faster and have faster acceleration.

I googled the question, but didnt really get the answers i wanted.

are there any before and after numbers?

Thx for the help.

Joe "Preachers Sheets" DIESO

iTrader: (4)

you dont gain horsepower, a torque converter is not a power mod. it multiplies your torque.

if you want dyno numbers, waste your money on headers, if you want to win the race, buy a torque converter.

00slowredz

if you want dyno numbers, waste your money on headers, if you want to win the race, buy a torque converter.[/QUOTE]







i still need to buy a stall before i put my cam in but that was a good way to put it...

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

Hands down the best mod for an A4 car. I was on the fence for a while and went with headers first. I gained for sure with the headers and true duals, but nothing like when I put the stall in. Just about every aspect of driving with the A4 changed. It takes a little more pedal to get moving, the shifts become very soft without the addition of a shift kit or tuning, and WOT blasts equate to instant gratification. No more dead spots, just instant RPM's and instant acceleration. It makes an A4 almost as much fun as a M6.

I don't really have accurate before and after times due to my tranny acting up, but the average gain seems to be .5 seconds. Obviously results vary, but the gain is substantial. One thing to keep in mind is that the majority of the folks that have these usually wish they had gone bigger. I thought I wanted a 3200 so I went with a 3500. Now I wish I had done a 4000. 3500 is very streetable, just one hell of a lot more fun to drive. Do it!

Joe "Preachers Sheets" DIESO

iTrader: (4)

i went with a 4000 and it's even fine with 2.73 gears (i have a new 3.42 rear to install). i only went with a 4000 because the cam i am buying will work well in that powerband. i've driven a 4400 and it's just as streetable. if the cam was bigger, i would go with a bigger stall without thinking about it.

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

That's exactly why I wish I had gone larger. I want a bigger cam than a 3500 will work with. I will probably have it cleaned and restalled when I get my new tranny. Do your research before you buy. If you plan on H/C in the future, get the corresponding stall the first time around.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

3500 to 4000 i would sugest

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

i knew it didnt increase your hp.

so wait how does it multiply your torque? thats freakin awesome.

i dont intend on modding my car substantially. Nor can i afford it at this time in my life. The most i would be doing is adding nitrous and a couple more bolt ons. no H/C for me....

so would a stall be a good major first mod to get? as opposed to the headers as stated above? and will it kick my rear ends ***, thats what im kinda worried about at the moment. i got 108k miles on it and im not sure how much shell take.

the input it great keep it commin.

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

A4's are pretty forgiving on our weak 10 bolt rear ends unlike our 6-speed brothers. A converter shouldn't hurt it. And yes, it would be a great first major mod. Personally, I would also suggest headers at some point. They will add somewhere around 15-20 rear wheel power on average. I went from 13.6 at 103 bone stock to 12.9 at 107 with the addition of headers, true duals and a lid. My highest trap ever was 108.5 but on a 13.0 pass. So I suggest both.

If you have to pick one over the other, the converter wins by a long shot. You'll think you're in a whole new car the first time you drive it after the install. Acceleration is unbelievable. Of course, you'll want to invest in drag radials as your traction will go out the window. I can break the tires loose at 30 MPH.

One other thing, with 108K miles, you may want to have it freshened up just to make sure it still in good shape. A converter won't hurt the tranny, but if you have metal shavings in the oil, you don't want to circulate that through a new converter. How does the tranny act now? Seem okay?

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

no slippage. i treat the tranny exceptionally well. never done a burnout/donut or launch the car.

just wanted to get some fears outta my mind before i did this. is this to hard to install myself? and seeing as im not gonna mod to harshly. how big of a stall should i go?

now when launching with it turning off the TSC would be less stressful correct? and say im racing from 10mph would it still give a hell of a kick.

ooo and i never intend on seeing a track, just tryin to keep it streetable. theres no "good" track in my area.


only thing that goes wrong with my car is minor stuff, like now its getting the fuel pump replaced and the power rack n pinion replaced, power steering pump, and new high pressure hose. which by the way is EXTREMLY hard to find in DFW.

Joe "Preachers Sheets" DIESO

iTrader: (4)

my car was bone stock down to the airbox. with a 4,000 stall and a tune as the only mod's, my car would leave two strip's of rubber if i whacked it from a 15 mph roll. this was with 2.73 gears.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

stall that bitch

Mike2000Z28

I wish I would have listen to my buddies who said look at the converter first but then again the sound and HP of headers is hard to get over. I got headers and a shiftkit first, (really cheap). Then dyno tuned it. After a few months came the cam and matching stall. My car with the converter and the cam just plan blew my buddies' minds. I would put a converter in and have your tranny refreshed while its getting the converter installed. Then save up and get your headers while saving the cam as your last mod. You will have other things to get that will come before more power can be used. Just my .02.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

i had a 98 formula with a stall, lid, nitto drag radials, and hptuners tuning (just on the street tuning) plus i put in a shift kit and a cooler when i did the stall. went 12.70's with just that- with 2.73 gears. not crazy fast but PRETTY fast for only power gains being a lid and tuning. i used to clean up on the street with that car-

get the stall first- i say 3500 is a good starting point. i ended up going to 3800 because the converter was out of the car already. if you plan on spraying the car you don't want to really go too big- and the bigger you go the more tire you'll need to hook up.

although, if you really don't race the car that much and like your gas milage, maybe even go a tad smaller like a 3000 or 3200 stall.

when people give you the rpm rating of the stall, it means that is what the rpms will flash to, (if you stomp on the pedal from around idle). it isn't like an on/off switch either, the car will pull below the rated stall speed, but under wide open throttle the rpms will stay up higher, and the car will accelerate faster.

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

i think i will go with a 3500 stall. i dont see it taking away too much from my mpg.

all i have on my car is a lid and borla exhst. so i think a stall seems like a hell of a good mod.

what is the shift kit part... are the any other corresponding parts that i should get with this?
and how much for installation.. this seems like a somewhat difficult job for one person.

99Hawk262

iTrader: (19)

It really isn't too bad if you have a buddy to help you. Once you get the tranny down it is a matter of 10 minutes or so to swap converters. As for the shift kit, that's a little more involved. Just go with a Transgo HD shift kit. Check out our sponsors....many carry them. And don't forget an aftermarket cooler. IT IS A MUST! I recommend the B&M 24K which once again numerous sponsors carry. And a tranny temp gauge is never a bad idea for extra insurance.

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

wuts the purpose of a new shift kit?

sixvi6-camaro

iTrader: (9)

Sounds just like my car... Stall is by far the best bang for the buck on an LS1. When I had just a lid and cat back the car would run 13.4's on a good run. After the stall and FLT tranny (stock tranny was slipping), and tune I can easily run 12.7's on MT DR's just as long as it doesn't wheel hop and get out of it.

XpEdItIoUs

iTrader: (44)

A stall cuts torque under what ever the converter is ment for for example a 4000 stall wont put the car under load untill it hits that rpm, so the engine revs faster under 4000 since there is no load which gives you a better launch if you power band is over 4000. Correct me if im wrong all this is just a educated guess.