Aftermarket control arms. Whats your opinion on this?
#23
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As far as the fuel system is concerned, I admire your tenacity at making this work and maybe your string of post makes it look like more work than it actually was, but I lost patience with that kind of stuff years ago. Very simply, another route, for those of us who have been down this road before, was to put a fuel cell in it from the get go and be done with it...especially when you've reached the mod level you have. Not trying to diss in any way.....I know this will work for you.
Besides....installing a fuel cell in the spare tire well would improve weight distribution and with your 9inch swap, it would be even closer to 50-50 with 15 gallons of fuel hung behind diff. Not only that, once the fuel cell is in it, you could take the stock tank out and make one hell of a sub enclosure.....
#24
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I'd love a tubular setup. Just hope some one can spare one for 54inches to start a prototype.
ls1247:
For me I feel that if you're going to replace anything. why not pay for an upgrade other than paying almost the same price to dealer for OEM parts.
ls1247:
For me I feel that if you're going to replace anything. why not pay for an upgrade other than paying almost the same price to dealer for OEM parts.
#26
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I doubt anyone will just toss a set of arms dude. That old saying, gotta spend money to make money... Rings true. They are only $77+/- on rock auto. You only need one anyways. Or after I get a truck, I'll take mine off and send em to you and you can send them back when you're done, along with a new set of tubular arms.
#27
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I doubt anyone will just toss a set of arms dude. That old saying, gotta spend money to make money... Rings true. They are only $77+/- on rock auto. You only need one anyways. Or after I get a truck, I'll take mine off and send em to you and you can send them back when you're done, along with a new set of tubular arms.
Don't doubt the willing brother. They were just $60 a month back; lol. It is not the money for sure, but we are not spendthrifts; IF someone was going to throw away a bad set of control arms(bushings that is)to replace them with a new unit, then I did not want them to go to waste.
#28
Control arms are one of the most important parts on the car from the OEM's perspective because of the death/injury/liability implications. So they design them to never break. Furthermore, because the ball joints in the lower control arms are cheap and easily replaceable (without screwing up your alignment settings), people never buy new control arms. The only reason why used arms are available is because people total their cars.
#29
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It's just a generic LCA picture, not a picture of a part for a CTS/CTS-V.
Because they don't have a black boot?
Rockauto.com sells upper front ball joints from Moog and Raybestos, so presumably that means they can be replaced. I've never had an issue with mine, though, so I don't know for certain; it's possible Moog and Raybestos just have the parts listed improperly.
#30
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AAIIIC:
I appreciate your remarks and your quote to allll my posts. Although you were no help to me. I'll let you in on something. the stock upper Control arm on my 2005 CTSV does not have a replaceable ball joint where it meets the hub. I've read of other cars being the same as mine.
I'd also appreciate if you keep your smart remarks to your self like the one about the blue boot. Reason I asked is because someone might have experience with this particular distributor and notice an upgraded ballpoint in comparison the stock one.
I was Also under the impression that I was among rational understanding adult men of my age group and did not expect to ever see some one with your attitude shime into one of my thread. I ask that you don't post my threads any more thank you.
I appreciate your remarks and your quote to allll my posts. Although you were no help to me. I'll let you in on something. the stock upper Control arm on my 2005 CTSV does not have a replaceable ball joint where it meets the hub. I've read of other cars being the same as mine.
I'd also appreciate if you keep your smart remarks to your self like the one about the blue boot. Reason I asked is because someone might have experience with this particular distributor and notice an upgraded ballpoint in comparison the stock one.
I was Also under the impression that I was among rational understanding adult men of my age group and did not expect to ever see some one with your attitude shime into one of my thread. I ask that you don't post my threads any more thank you.
#31
AAIIIC:
I appreciate your remarks and your quote to allll my posts. Although you were no help to me. I'll let you in on something. the stock upper Control arm on my 2005 CTSV does not have a replaceable ball joint where it meets the hub. I've read of other cars being the same as mine.
I'd also appreciate if you keep your smart remarks to your self like the one about the blue boot. Reason I asked is because someone might have experience with this particular distributor and notice an upgraded ballpoint in comparison the stock one.
I was Also under the impression that I was among rational understanding adult men of my age group and did not expect to ever see some one with your attitude shime into one of my thread. I ask that you don't post my threads any more thank you.
I appreciate your remarks and your quote to allll my posts. Although you were no help to me. I'll let you in on something. the stock upper Control arm on my 2005 CTSV does not have a replaceable ball joint where it meets the hub. I've read of other cars being the same as mine.
I'd also appreciate if you keep your smart remarks to your self like the one about the blue boot. Reason I asked is because someone might have experience with this particular distributor and notice an upgraded ballpoint in comparison the stock one.
I was Also under the impression that I was among rational understanding adult men of my age group and did not expect to ever see some one with your attitude shime into one of my thread. I ask that you don't post my threads any more thank you.
That said, the blue boot is Raybestos. Black boots are Moog or OE. Moog > Raybestos, but not by a whole lot.
The rivet head on the top ball joint is why that job is out of the range of most people. You have to cut a big X in it with a Dremel before you can properly address the rivet.
#32
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so I'm gonna guess your AAIIICs representative or B*** I guess. nice to meet you. and his reply did not seem funny to me at all. If I start a thread it's to share general knowledge not bash/flame/or pick on anything bout the thread.
#33
Back on topic: correction - the blue ball joints in the CTS-V UCA picture earlier are Mevotech MK80635--the crappiest of the crappy.
In order of appearance: Moog K500119 and Raybestos 5001161 front upper ball joints
In order of appearance: Moog K80635 and Raybestos 5051425 front lower ball joints
#34
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I must have overlooked something on the initial reply. I'm not freaking out. just felt a like a bit a cheap reply with some uncolisited attitude.
But thanks for getting on the topic.
I'll make sure to stay away from mevotech
The thing is that these ball joints keep coming up but my upper construction does not come apart like that. Did I overlook it?
But thanks for getting on the topic.
I'll make sure to stay away from mevotech
The thing is that these ball joints keep coming up but my upper construction does not come apart like that. Did I overlook it?
#35
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the highlight joints look like they are part of the Assemblies on my upper arm. but it looks like i need to take a better look.
as far as the Revshift bushings. I'd love to have them on my arms but that squeek just kept me away for good.
I wish we had something like this going for our cars.
Now that.. looks well worth it.
Any benefit from something like these?
http://www.pfyc.com/CC4003.html
Or are they just stock replacements.
Last edited by dead civic; 02-08-2014 at 07:10 PM.
#38
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But I'll replacing mine soon. As I've come to realize that they do indeed come apart from the arm.
thanks for your input.
#40
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Email sales@revshift.com and tell them that. I've been trying to get them to make 60D or 75D control arm bushings, which are almost entirely self-lubricating and will not squeak so long as they're a modicum of grease somewhere in the bushing.