Aftermarket control arms. Whats your opinion on this?
#61
Rockauto had those replacement control arms for $66/each last week when I was browsing parts. By the time you factor in the cost of bushings and a ball joint you might as well just buy the whole arm. It's just aluminum, so you can throw the old ones in the recycling bin with your beer cans.
Also, after messing with poly bushings in the control arms of g-bodys I will never use poly on control arms again. The squeaks will drive you crazy no matter how well you lube them during install. Makes the car sound like a mid 90's explorer that some {insert prejudice expletive here} drives.
Also, after messing with poly bushings in the control arms of g-bodys I will never use poly on control arms again. The squeaks will drive you crazy no matter how well you lube them during install. Makes the car sound like a mid 90's explorer that some {insert prejudice expletive here} drives.
#63
According to the people on the Cadillac Forums, you can't press out the upper control arm bushings. But nobody has tried it. Plenty of people have replaced the lower control arm bushings. If that's something you want to do, there's a $70 A-frame Arbor press sold at Harbor Freight. There's also a 12 ton version that works over a much wider range of distances, but it's 6 feet tall instead of 30".
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a...ress-1666.html
I have three objectives with the aluminum spindles:
That's not true. Reduction of unsprung weight improves ride quality and responsiveness to steering inputs.
It's not that complicated. Don't lose sight of the fact that this is simply a second pump in a clearanced plastic bucket. We're futzing around with different line diameters and fittings right now, but in the end, I'll put up a simple parts list. If you have no natural inclination for this stuff, just follow the steps in Philistine's thread, or wait for mine.
By the way, the most complicated part of the installation, by far, are the electrical subsystem improvements--and that's coming from an electrical engineer. Regardless of what you choose to do, ALL avenues of attack require larger cabling and some type of electromechanical control system (either a switched network power supply or PWM input voltage controller). The stock connector on the CTS-V bucket with the stock pump is known to melt the lid and leak fuel on the ground. It's happened to three members that I'm aware of.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...g-smoking.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a...ress-1666.html
I have three objectives with the aluminum spindles:
- Reduce unsprung weight
- Increase wheel clearance
- Improve caster/camber angles
That's not true. Reduction of unsprung weight improves ride quality and responsiveness to steering inputs.
It's not that complicated. Don't lose sight of the fact that this is simply a second pump in a clearanced plastic bucket. We're futzing around with different line diameters and fittings right now, but in the end, I'll put up a simple parts list. If you have no natural inclination for this stuff, just follow the steps in Philistine's thread, or wait for mine.
By the way, the most complicated part of the installation, by far, are the electrical subsystem improvements--and that's coming from an electrical engineer. Regardless of what you choose to do, ALL avenues of attack require larger cabling and some type of electromechanical control system (either a switched network power supply or PWM input voltage controller). The stock connector on the CTS-V bucket with the stock pump is known to melt the lid and leak fuel on the ground. It's happened to three members that I'm aware of.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...g-smoking.html
#68
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
Fit is only part of the equation.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474625
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/general-nissan-altima-discussion-1993-2001/313674-mevotech-ball-joints-tie-rod-ends-beware.html
There was a discussion about this on owners forum a year or so ago but couldn't find the link..
They work ok in some applications, not so great on others...
Sorry about links working off cell phone..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=474625
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/general-nissan-altima-discussion-1993-2001/313674-mevotech-ball-joints-tie-rod-ends-beware.html
There was a discussion about this on owners forum a year or so ago but couldn't find the link..
They work ok in some applications, not so great on others...
Sorry about links working off cell phone..
#71
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
I see you have looked into this before....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...ervicable.html
Fuzzylogic managed to replace the upper ball joints by taking a dremel to the upper ball joint retainer. That was over on Owners forum but he deleted all of his post for the most part...
But if he can do it, you should be able to...
good luck.
#72
TECH Addict
iTrader: (4)
I have done it twice, but replacing the whole assembly is a better idea, since mine is not a race car.
I have had a quick failure after replacing the joint as opposed to the arm.
So with no failures or bad reviews on mevotech arms on our platform, I will stick with my decision since the prior method has shown failures.
I have had a quick failure after replacing the joint as opposed to the arm.
So with no failures or bad reviews on mevotech arms on our platform, I will stick with my decision since the prior method has shown failures.
#73
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
I have done it twice, but replacing the whole assembly is a better idea, since mine is not a race car.
I have had a quick failure after replacing the joint as opposed to the arm.
So with no failures or bad reviews on mevotech arms on our platform, I will stick with my decision since the prior method has shown failures.
I have had a quick failure after replacing the joint as opposed to the arm.
So with no failures or bad reviews on mevotech arms on our platform, I will stick with my decision since the prior method has shown failures.
How many miles have you put on them?
What was your experience like replacing the balljoint? I was getting ready to rebuild a set of arms but would appreciate the details.
Thanks!
#74
Teching In
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: APEX, NC
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The next project on my 04 V is the front end. I need new shocks and upper control arms. With this being mostly a street car. And maybe a once or twice a year track school car. How often to you need to grease the Creative Steel bushings? Is it every month or every oil change?
#75
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
The next project on my 04 V is the front end. I need new shocks and upper control arms. With this being mostly a street car. And maybe a once or twice a year track school car. How often to you need to grease the Creative Steel bushings? Is it every month or every oil change?
#79
On The Tree
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Philadelphia Area
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#80
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
FYI, just got this info from a friend that works for NAPA corporate:
"We just changed our suppliers on our control arms to Mevotech from Federal Mogul. We have two lines, though--NAPA Chassis Parts (NCP), the better line, and a retail line called Master Ride Chassis (MRC). NCP is Mevotech."
From what I've seen, there are only 2-3 big players in the market right now.
"We just changed our suppliers on our control arms to Mevotech from Federal Mogul. We have two lines, though--NAPA Chassis Parts (NCP), the better line, and a retail line called Master Ride Chassis (MRC). NCP is Mevotech."
From what I've seen, there are only 2-3 big players in the market right now.