VeryWhiteDevil

iTrader: (9)

happened to me. still have the bucket. fuel everywhere. that is when I did my fuel pump upgrade to the Denso pump

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

I'm Interested in tubular a arms for sure. Subframe connectors with a cross member and small ladder bar to the front diff mount.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Just sayin that for me, on a stock, dd car, I see no purpose in replacing my perfectly good stock control arms with tubular stock replacements to achieve what I would bet would be minimal gains in real world driving to and from work. However, if the spindle swap works out and there are more appreciable, compounded gains to be realized, it begins making more sense for a guy like me.

As far as the fuel system is concerned, I admire your tenacity at making this work and maybe your string of post makes it look like more work than it actually was, but I lost patience with that kind of stuff years ago. Very simply, another route, for those of us who have been down this road before, was to put a fuel cell in it from the get go and be done with it...especially when you've reached the mod level you have. Not trying to diss in any way.....I know this will work for you.

Besides....installing a fuel cell in the spare tire well would improve weight distribution and with your 9inch swap, it would be even closer to 50-50 with 15 gallons of fuel hung behind diff. Not only that, once the fuel cell is in it, you could take the stock tank out and make one hell of a sub enclosure.....

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

I'd love a tubular setup. Just hope some one can spare one for 54inches to start a prototype.

ls1247:
For me I feel that if you're going to replace anything. why not pay for an upgrade other than paying almost the same price to dealer for OEM parts.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

If your own a budget, replacing only the one that's worn out with oem stuff makes more sense than having to buy (and install) a full set of four tubulars to me.

ryridesmotox

I doubt anyone will just toss a set of arms dude. That old saying, gotta spend money to make money... Rings true. They are only $77+/- on rock auto. You only need one anyways. Or after I get a truck, I'll take mine off and send em to you and you can send them back when you're done, along with a new set of tubular arms.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Don't tell all of you secrets! lol

If not, no big deal, one of our cars is not a DD and mine will stop being a DD hopefully sooner than later......we just use our cars for testing alot, since they are so different.

Let me introduce you to Warren Buffet.

Don't doubt the willing brother. They were just $60 a month back; lol. It is not the money for sure, but we are not spendthrifts; IF someone was going to throw away a bad set of control arms(bushings that is)to replace them with a new unit, then I did not want them to go to waste.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Control arms are one of the most important parts on the car from the OEM's perspective because of the death/injury/liability implications. So they design them to never break. Furthermore, because the ball joints in the lower control arms are cheap and easily replaceable (without screwing up your alignment settings), people never buy new control arms. The only reason why used arms are available is because people total their cars.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Why not just install the Revshift bushings into your existing arms?

It's just a generic LCA picture, not a picture of a part for a CTS/CTS-V.

Because they don't have a black boot?

Rockauto.com sells upper front ball joints from Moog and Raybestos, so presumably that means they can be replaced. I've never had an issue with mine, though, so I don't know for certain; it's possible Moog and Raybestos just have the parts listed improperly.

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

AAIIIC:

I appreciate your remarks and your quote to allll my posts. Although you were no help to me. I'll let you in on something. the stock upper Control arm on my 2005 CTSV does not have a replaceable ball joint where it meets the hub. I've read of other cars being the same as mine.

I'd also appreciate if you keep your smart remarks to your self like the one about the blue boot. Reason I asked is because someone might have experience with this particular distributor and notice an upgraded ballpoint in comparison the stock one.

I was Also under the impression that I was among rational understanding adult men of my age group and did not expect to ever see some one with your attitude shime into one of my thread. I ask that you don't post my threads any more thank you.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Go pound sand. If you're not willing to listen to AAIIIC, and you don't have a sense of humor, you don't belong in this forum.

That said, the blue boot is Raybestos. Black boots are Moog or OE. Moog > Raybestos, but not by a whole lot.

The rivet head on the top ball joint is why that job is out of the range of most people. You have to cut a big X in it with a Dremel before you can properly address the rivet.

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

so I'm gonna guess your AAIIICs representative or B*** I guess. nice to meet you. and his reply did not seem funny to me at all. If I start a thread it's to share general knowledge not bash/flame/or pick on anything bout the thread.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If people like you, they may choose not to use the threads you start in a way that you don't like, but you do not own your threads. Freaking out on one of the most respected community members is not going to benefit anybody.

Back on topic: correction - the blue ball joints in the CTS-V UCA picture earlier are Mevotech MK80635--the crappiest of the crappy.




In order of appearance: Moog K500119 and Raybestos 5001161 front upper ball joints


In order of appearance: Moog K80635 and Raybestos 5051425 front lower ball joints

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

I must have overlooked something on the initial reply. I'm not freaking out. just felt a like a bit a cheap reply with some uncolisited attitude.

But thanks for getting on the topic.

I'll make sure to stay away from mevotech
The thing is that these ball joints keep coming up but my upper construction does not come apart like that. Did I overlook it?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I don't know what you mean. Can you be more specific? Google a picture?

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

the highlight joints look like they are part of the Assemblies on my upper arm. but it looks like i need to take a better look.

as far as the Revshift bushings. I'd love to have them on my arms but that squeek just kept me away for good.

I wish we had something like this going for our cars.


Now that.. looks well worth it.

Any benefit from something like these?
http://www.pfyc.com/CC4003.html

Or are they just stock replacements.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That's correct. Those are part of your control arms. As I understand it, they're also the main reason why it's hard to get the upper control arm ball joints out.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Email sales@revshift.com and tell them that. I've been trying to get them to make 60D or 75D control arm bushings, which are almost entirely self-lubricating and will not squeak so long as they're a modicum of grease somewhere in the bushing.

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

yeah. I meant when I looked at them with one of the sears techs, it looked like the ball joint did not come apart from the arm... like it was one solid construction.

But I'll replacing mine soon. As I've come to realize that they do indeed come apart from the arm.

thanks for your input.

dead civic

iTrader: (3)

I bet if we had a good group buy together they'd work with us. Because that is one part I'd like upgrade and never look back.