Nicco

The battery reads between 11.6V OK and 12.0V OK. I am not sure if this is too low to start the car or if something else may be wrong.

When I turn the key, I get one single click, not multiple clicks like it is trying to start, just one click then nothing.

If this is the battery I will take care of it, I just wanted to check here to see if anyone else has had this issue.

ryridesmotox

Do all the lights still come on? I've been having an intermittent problem with my clutch positron sensor recently. Same thing, turn key, one click, after a few attempts it usually fires. Happens when it's cold outside for some reason.

Nicco

It has been cold out recently, when I turn the key, the gauge seems to go through the normal on and off of lights. Where is this sensor? Is it on the pedal? I hope it is something this simple.

serik21

Nico these cars are very sensitive to voltage illegurarities. But the 3 most common issues are the plug on the starter getting fried and going bad. The battery going bad. Or the starter going out. While your cars in neutral key in the on position you can go to your fuse box and jump the starter relay. If it clicks it means.either bad connection on the starter or bad starter. If it starts it's most likely your clutch saftey switch.

ryridesmotox

Cold for me is 40°, I'm in southern California. But its not that bad to get to, its just in a tough spot under the dash. If you have the problem again, just keep depressing the clutch a few times. Of it ends up firing you need a new clutch switch. Also there is a code associated with a clutch switch... Its like P0330 or some random goddamn thing. Mine didn't throw the check engine light until the 3rd or 4th time it happened.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

try getting jumped, but it sounds like the starter went/going out..

Take a crowbar and crawl under the car and tap the starter hard a few times, might free it up.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

We had a similar issue. Have someone keep the volt meter on the battery when you hit the key. See if it drops. We replaced battery and was fine, but we also had an issue with the lights not coming back on once hitting the key.
Yours sounds like starter issue.

Nicco

I got it to start. I tried pushing the clutch in and out a few times, that didn't work. So I started turning the key, sometimes I got a click, other times no click. Out of desperation, tried starting it over and over, then vrooooom rm rm rm rm. Started up and sounded great.

I am in Vegas right now, is it possible that the cold nights messed with something? This is a California car, I have only been here a few weeks.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

Drawing straws here.. possible bad passkey module or bad chip key?

Aaron Thomas

iTrader: (1)

11.6-12.0V seems low from what I've seen. My car rarely drops below 13 and that is with a 10% ud pulley. A few posts down most people are reportin 13.4+ volts. I would start with checking the battery. I dont buy into an idiot light that says OK, and then when that has been ruled out move onto the items that are more involved I.e. starter, alternator, clutch position sensor. The cold weather can snap a battery quickly.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's low and asking for gremlins. Mine doesn't go below 12.5 and that's in Pittsburgh cold not Vegas cold lol.

Nicco

Well I hadn't driven the car much except short trips down the street. I am thinking the battery was just low, I replaced the battery 1k miles ago so the battery should be ok, I am thinking I just let it sit too long without a good drive to charge it. It went straight up to 13.9V after I got it started and seems to be staying there. I am with you on the "OK" notification, I have heard before you usually want 12.5V + to start a car. Perhaps I was at the bare minimum and got lucky. Anyways, thanks guys.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I don't think its all about having enough juice to just start the car either. These things have wonky grounds and when you engage the starter the voltage drops even further. That dip can confuse the computer brains and toss sensor readings off if it lasts long enough.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

It's a 12 volt battery so when it's not running it will read 12 to 12.5, While starting (starter motor engaged) you may dip to 10.5 or 11 volts.
The charging system runs at 14 volts so if you are seeing 14 volts when running that's normal.

When it finally did start did it turn over slow or start like normal? If it turned over slow then it could have been a low charge on the battery, If it turned over like it normally does then you could have a loose connection or as another person stated it could be the clutch switch.

Nicco

It turned over like normal. Since then I have started it a few times and it was fine. We will see if it comes back.

hefftone

I had similar issues.
One click no start...replaced battery, as I knew it was on its last leg, did the same thing...ended up clutch starting from a roll.
No problem for about 20+ starts, then....click......click.... I ended up do the same thing, clutch, click, off, repeat...and I don't know how many times but it eventually just fired up like normal.
So that's twice and has not done it since.....don't have anything to help you out, but it looks like we're in the same boat Nicco.

(edit) But this sounds similar:
ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v/1368907-strange-no-start-issue.html


In a similar thrread i started recently, LS1247 suggested having the starter rebuilt at an auto electric shop...they can be a little hard to find, look for alternator/starter repair...and have them rebuild with a solenoid with a ring terminal instead of the goofy clip that degrades over time.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

This problem sounds like when my starter solenoid wire was burnt. Very common on these cars. So the starter itself might not be bad. Could just be the wire going to it.

hefftone

My connector was al crumbly, but the wire itself has silver heat wrap on it. Maybe they figured that out by 2007?

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

No, because I have an '07 and mine got melted since previous owner didn't protect it from the headers.

David Cothern

when you read your battery 11.6OK and 12.0OK is where you're at with a GOOD BATTERY. Look at the AMPS as well as the voltage output, being a truck driver and now I work for NAPA in Ohio, I've seen the weird **** like batteries putting out proper amount of voltage but not amps, amps is what you need to crank over your engine, there is a difference, simple youtube search will change your life, sounds like starter solenoid maybe going out if not the starter all together. Most GM's use the same solenoid, easy to change and a WHOLE lot cheaper to do yourself, anybody can change them. if you can tell whether the starter is free spinning with no issue I suggest ONLY changing the solenoid, if it fails to work, return it, at least Napa's will let ya like mine and defect it out and then simply put that cash towards a starter if you need one. I also have to suggest doing a conductivity test on your coils and check the spark plugs with a spark tester, $8, voltmeter is around $15 at harbor freight, if you don't have one. This will tell you if you have a spark issue somewhere in your system and where its at.