Subwoofer replacement
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Subwoofer replacement
Hey guys, so recently i started hearing a lot of crackle and distortion from the rear sub. I am looking to replace it with an infinite baffle subwoofer and an amp as well. I am wondering what is a good combo. I want to get a 10 inch, i know I will have out shave out the deck some. Also, I was wondering what to do with the old bose amp? If i have to remove it that will be fine, I have an after market head unit (Parrot Asteroid Smart) so I can run RCA cables. I am not looking for show quality, just looking for a good improvement over the old setup. Thanks ahead and if there is anything about IBs i should know about would be great too, I am use to just enclosed woofers.
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
You don't have to remove the Bose amp.
Get a mono or small bridgeable one with a high level (speaker level) input (most amps are switchable from low to high for this purpose).
Use that to power the new sub and the old sub connections to drive the amp.
Check this site for subs:
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-drivers/14
Get a mono or small bridgeable one with a high level (speaker level) input (most amps are switchable from low to high for this purpose).
Use that to power the new sub and the old sub connections to drive the amp.
Check this site for subs:
http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-drivers/14
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
You can't get a real deep one unless you mount from the bottom or get real creative with a mounting board.
That link I posted has some good ones, the shallow one (DAYTON) in new listing looks like a good fit.
I had to use a nibbler tool to increase the ID for the basket to fit the hole, which was no big deal.
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
The Infinity I use has been discontinued.
You can't get a real deep one unless you mount from the bottom or get real creative with a mounting board.
That link I posted has some good ones, the shallow one (DAYTON) in new listing looks like a good fit.
I had to use a nibbler tool to increase the ID for the basket to fit the hole, which was no big deal.
You can't get a real deep one unless you mount from the bottom or get real creative with a mounting board.
That link I posted has some good ones, the shallow one (DAYTON) in new listing looks like a good fit.
I had to use a nibbler tool to increase the ID for the basket to fit the hole, which was no big deal.
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
The Infinity I use has been discontinued.
You can't get a real deep one unless you mount from the bottom or get real creative with a mounting board.
That link I posted has some good ones, the shallow one (DAYTON) in new listing looks like a good fit.
I had to use a nibbler tool to increase the ID for the basket to fit the hole, which was no big deal.
You can't get a real deep one unless you mount from the bottom or get real creative with a mounting board.
That link I posted has some good ones, the shallow one (DAYTON) in new listing looks like a good fit.
I had to use a nibbler tool to increase the ID for the basket to fit the hole, which was no big deal.
Part of me has thought about cutting out two more holes and doing 3 IB subs back there, but we'll see how one goes this spring.
#7
Heavy has made all the right recommendations. However I would make sure I mounted from the bottom rather than the top. The stock deck is not that stout and you really want your sub baffle to be very rigid. So bottom mounting a deep sub capable of long excursion to a rigid baffle under and affixed to the stock deck would be my suggestion.
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#8
Part of me has thought about cutting out two more holes and doing 3 IB subs back there, but we'll see how one goes this spring.
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Heavy has made all the right recommendations. However I would make sure I mounted from the bottom rather than the top. The stock deck is not that stout and you really want your sub baffle to be very rigid. So bottom mounting a deep sub capable of long excursion to a rigid baffle under and affixed to the stock deck would be my suggestion.
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I think this is the Dayton that Heavy was talking about
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ProductDetails
It seems to be what I want, just cant find any information since this is a new product if it is good for IB.
now for an amp, found a class D that seems to be a good fit for that sub
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3....html?tp=35834
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ProductDetails
It seems to be what I want, just cant find any information since this is a new product if it is good for IB.
now for an amp, found a class D that seems to be a good fit for that sub
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3....html?tp=35834
#11
so your saying is to use the speaker and the deck as a baffle when you mount from the bottom? What if I dont plan on using a deep sub, would it still be better t mount from the bottom?
I realize this is a lot of work for a sub but if you are adding an aftermarket sub you typically want more volume and more low end extension. Both will stress the stock mounting location. Do it as described above (and use some deadner on any trunk panels that vibrate) and when you are done it WILL NOT sound like two midgets in the trunk wrestling inside a bag of aluminum cans.
#12
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Keep in mind that I am a stickler for this stuff... I would only mount a sub in the stock reat deck (top or bottom) if the deck was reinforced somehow. The are multiple reasons but the main reason is you will end up with less rattling/non-musical noise if you reinforce it. I know a lot of guys don't want to add weight and I agree that weight (especially mounted high in the car) is a bad thing but adding an aftermarket sub up high typically adds weight as well. IMO if you use the deck to mount the sub and don't want to add a ton of weight then you should cut a baffle from 1/4 inch plywood. Attach it to the stock deck on the bottom side and fill the gap between the two with spray foam insulation. Then screw in a couple of strategically placed pieces of aluminum angle material for rigidity. Finally use a small amount of sound deadner to secure the wires to the top of the deck and prevent them from buzzing.
I realize this is a lot of work for a sub but if you are adding an aftermarket sub you typically want more volume and more low end extension. Both will stress the stock mounting location. Do it as described above (and use some deadner on any trunk panels that vibrate) and when you are done it WILL NOT sound like two midgets in the trunk wrestling inside a bag of aluminum cans.
I realize this is a lot of work for a sub but if you are adding an aftermarket sub you typically want more volume and more low end extension. Both will stress the stock mounting location. Do it as described above (and use some deadner on any trunk panels that vibrate) and when you are done it WILL NOT sound like two midgets in the trunk wrestling inside a bag of aluminum cans.
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
I agree with everything you have said, especially reinforcing. Just have to remember though, that one, I am not looking to **** of my neighborhood and two, the weight from a shallow sub and an amp (depending where I place it) is the only weight added. So I am not to concerned of any weight issues. If anything I can tack in some angle pieces if there seemed to be any weight concerned areas. My main concerned now is the Dayton sub going to work as a IBS and can the fuse block handle the load of another amp or should I just run a whole new wire from the battery? Last thing I want to do is light a fire underneath a passengers *** when a fuse pops.
Saved having to run a wire through the firewall.
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Great, thanks heavy, what gauge wire did you run? And does the stock bose amp have a remote to it as well that I can just splice from?
Last edited by AJT_LBA; 01-14-2015 at 02:31 PM.
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
so I found this combo, and seen quite the good reviews on replacing free air subs like our case.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD...04.html?tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3...12CX300-1.html
let me know what you guys think.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD...04.html?tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3...12CX300-1.html
let me know what you guys think.
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
so I found this combo, and seen quite the good reviews on replacing free air subs like our case.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD...04.html?tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3...12CX300-1.html
let me know what you guys think.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD...04.html?tp=111
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3...12CX300-1.html
let me know what you guys think.
Amplifier looks ok to me.
The sub, I would be aware of the depth limitation if you mount from the top as the rear window can prevent it or just be a PITA.
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
well the top mount depth is 4 and 3/4, I looked at your infinity and its 4 and 1/2, did you have a problem getting it in? i know 1/4 can be a big difference, but would it seem a PITA? also, does the rear deck cover just pop off?