GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Hey, no problem at all. On the underside of the car I used Rustoleum rattle can Black Satin. It was in the can with the "any angle" nozzle so it made it easier to use under the car. So far it seems fairly durable. I scuffed the POR up first with Scotchbrite pads. On the subframe and firewall I went with Rustoleum Low Gloss Engine Enamel. It's just a tad bit flatter than the satin, but I figured I wanted something a little more heat resistent in the engine compartment and I've always had good luck with the durabilty of engine enamel on all kinds of parts.

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

I'm not real sure why they wouldn't have the same design other than the set back. Have you had yours for a while? Maybe they've redesigned them since you got yours? Maybe try calling them up and asking.

Is there a reason you don't want to/can't use the 1-inch setback plates? I'm not sure what their point of reference is for "1-inch back", but in my case the 1-inch set backs put my TH350 and TH400 both in the exact stock location. If I weren't running the 1-inch back plates, my trans would actually be 1 inch forward of the stock location. I guess that isn't that critical though for most who will be running a 4L60/80E or T56.

1972nova

iTrader: (13)

how much por15 did you end up using on all the underbody and frame? did you just use a wire wheel to clean it all up?

looks great

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Believe it or not, it took exactly one quart of POR, but I was really stretching it towards the end and I didn't waste much at all. It was really close though.

I used a needle scaler to remove most of the undercoating and got the more stubborn areas with a small propane torch and a scraper. Then I stripped the factory red oxide primer with aircraft stripper and wire wheels.

Once it was down to bare metal, I cleaned everything first with brake parts cleaner and again with POR's Marine Clean degreaser. Then I prepped the relatively smooth metal with POR's Metal Ready which etches the metal and gives the POR something to grab onto. This isn't necessary if the metal has been blasted or is rusty because it already has a course surface.

Thanks!

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Looks nice man. Keep up the good work

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Thanks man.

NYTHAWK

iTrader: (5)

Is the POR just a clear coating of rust protection (to paint over), or is it a paint type product?

Did you powder coat or bake any parts?

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

POR-15 is a paint product. Check here for info: http://www.por15.com/
You only have to top coat it if it will be exposed to direct sunlight becuase it isn't UV resistent. But I chose to topcoat it though because the finish was a little too glossy and inconsistent (hazy in spots) for my liking. I used the POR first for it's rust resistent/chip resistent properties and topcoated it to achieve my desired look.

Yeah, I had my upper and lower control arms powder coated. I'll also probably eventually have the inner fenders and a few small parts (hood hinges/hood latch assembly...ect) powder coated as well.

usmcz28

iTrader: (3)

Better yet whats the part number on the headers?

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Part number is 65073. EDL-65073 at Summit. I just put these back on the car tonight and I've noticed the coating is already chipping off in spots, just from minor rubs and scrapes during the few installs I've done. I'm not real impressed with that. I guess I'll be finding out how high (or low) quality stainless these are made out of.

69lemansguy

iTrader: (12)

i just read all 5 pages of your build. You are doing an amazing job. Reading builds like this make me want to buy an old A or F body and do a ls swap rather than buying a newer LSX car. Cant wait to follow this along!

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Thanks a lot! I'm glad others are enjoying this. I know I've taken a lot of inspiration and ideas from other swaps on this and other forums. This swap is something I've wanted to do for a long time and just had to wait until the time was right (find the right car). I've always loved early 2nd Gens and LS motors......you just can't beat combining the two in my opinion. As I've mentioned before, I've got a 99 Trans Am that I've had for 11yrs now. I still enjoy driving and racing it, but the swap project has all my attention right now.

Jimbo1367

I am wondering if Edelbrocks LSx swap headers are actually ANY grade SS. I thought I read their desrciption before and thought it sounded "vaque" (SP) I am wondering if its a "ss" coating. i.e. "Steelit" SOMEONE ELSE COMMENTED ON THE SAME THING damn cap locks. If you like the headers enough and Edelbrock won't warranty the coating, just have it jethot-ed.

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Jim, here is the first part of the description from Edelbrock's site:

"These high quality engine conversion headers are made from 409 stainless steel tubing with 3/8" thick port and collector flanges. They are Ti-TECH coated, a ceramic based high-temp coated, for corrostion resistance and durability."

So they claim, very specifically, that they are 409 stainless, but from what little I know about stainless materials, 409 is a lesser grade of stainless as opposed to something like 304 stainless which would probably be more expensive to use. That's about the extent of my stainless knowledge but I can tell you that there must be a lot of carbon remaining in 409 because a magnet will stick extrememly well to my headers, and I'm pretty sure they'll eventually rust at least a little bit because of it. The way I see it, why else would they need a coating "for corrotion resitance and durability" if they didn't expect the 409 to corrode?

But the problem is, I really don't think the "Ti-tech" coating on them is terribly durable. One thing I noticed in their description is that they call it a "ceramic based" high temp coating....I'm wondering if some hi-temp paints might be able to fit that description with a little ceramic added in?

Don't get me wrong....I still reallly like these headers because of their fit, stepped design, and thick flanges and I think they're the best option for these swaps. Being built out of any grade of stainless is better than plain mild steel. But, like you recommended, I'll probably eventually send them off to Jet Hot to be coated. That is good quality stuff in my experience.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for the very detailed writeup and pictures of your project. It's inspirational and informative to see such a clean swap taking place. You obviously do your homework and it's paying off.

Regarding the setback adapter plates, I have read (maybe hearsay) that some vehicles can have firewall interferance issues when using those. That's obviously not the case with your '73. Glad you got it sorted out! Having the tranny in a stock location is a big plus in my book.

Jimbo1367

any more pic updates?

chriss71z28

Great info! I have a 71 Z28 and i'm thinking of putting a LS in it. Glad to see so much detailed info and pics. Makes it better for the next guy who is trying to do this. Have you looked into any of the wiring issues yet? Wondering how you tie in the new style alt to the older car wiring? Did you upgrade your fusebox at all? I was thinking of getting the new-style american autowire box that has the buss type fuses instead of the old glass ones. Thanks

NYTHAWK

iTrader: (5)

Speaking of wiring and such, how much more difficult would it be to run fully fuel injected?

Are you doing A/C?

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Thanks a lot for the huge compliments. Its funny what you said about doing my homework and all. It's actually a bit of a running joke between me an some of my close friends.....they say I'm **** and tend to over-think and over-plan things to death. I'm a compulsive list maker. I've got parts lists (part numbers/prices) that I still need to buy, I've got them broken down in the order I need to buy them, I've got lists of jobs left to do on the car and the order they need to be done......it's madening sometimes, but it's just what makes me tick I guess. Must be 16 year of the Army coming out in me......oh well.....if you fail to plan, you plan to fail......

Your thoughts about the plates make good sense. The plates are somewhat "universal" but the applications for them are not. What might be 1 inch back in a Nova, for example, might not be 1 inch back in a Chevelle (just a random example, of course).

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Yeah, I really need to take a "gratuatous engine shot", now that it's back in the car with the headers installed and the alternator mounted up, but I'm kinda waiting til I can get my other valve cover done and installed.

I mentioned before that I picked up an extra set of valve covers so I can run a passenger side valve cover on both sides to allow for dual breathers. Well, the other set I got were older "well used" ones and weren't nearly as nice of castings. Even after a good cleaning it didn't look as nice as the 08 passenger casting that came on my motor. I had been considering painting the valve covers orange to match the block all along, and the this valve cover thing made up my mind to do that. So, I painted both passenger valve covers and when I went to install the swap meet one, I discovered that there are two "blades" (for lack of a better term) that are cast into the bottom of the cover to support the baffle on one end. Well, apparently, those blades don't get along with the offset rocker set up on my L92 heads (clearance issue), so I now have to cut/grind them out to make this vavle cover work. Not a big deal....just haven't gotten it done yet.

I know that's a lot more than you asked for.....but the short story is, hopefullly I'll be able to get some new update pics tomorrow. I think I'm gonna have to upgrade my Photobucket accout to Pro though. Between this thread here and my one on Nastyz28, I'm really blowing up my monthly data tranfer limit. They actually shut me down for two days last month. I just posted some stuff for sale last night and I used my wifes Photobucket account to post those pics to avoid getting shut down in my for sale thread.