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Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?

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Old 02-23-2011, 11:07 AM
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Default Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?

Getting ready to do my 5.3 swap and I'll be running the truck Alternator/ PS pulley system with a Kwik Perf A/C Bracket, but would prefer to use a Vette/F-body pump instead of the truck waterpump. I've heard of people pulling the truck pulley and installing it on the F-body pump, but couldn't you just pull the F-body pulley forward 3/4" to get the waterpump pulley to like up. Or is there not enough Shaft on the pump to do this. I have the Truck pump already, but not the F-Body one yet. I snagged this pic from another post to show the difference.
Attached Thumbnails Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?-waterpump-camparison-.jpg  
Old 02-23-2011, 11:35 AM
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I've swapped the truck pulley on the car pump, but I've never been able to remove the f body pulley without destroying it.
You might be able to set up a jig on a press to get between the pulley and housing.
You can always use spacers too.
Old 02-23-2011, 11:54 AM
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You can buy 3/4'' spacers for the car water pump as well. But they aren't too cheap.
Old 02-23-2011, 01:47 PM
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Another option is the 5th generation Camaro L99 waterpump which already has the appropriate spacing and has a driver's side forward outlet.



There is info on this in my thread here beginning around post @28.

frojoe has used essentially the same pump with his truck alternator/ps bracket with minor modification to the bracket.
Old 02-23-2011, 02:21 PM
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did a fbody wp swap on a 5.3 in a s10 over the weekend and it straight forward just use 3/4 spacers and everything lines up i think he bought them on ebay for like 75 bucks shipped ...seems to be the wat to go imo....i can take some pics of it later if u like..and also the way our belt is routed we had to use an fbody tensioner.
Old 02-23-2011, 04:55 PM
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I was hoping to avoid the spacers if possible, but if I ever had to service the pump later spacers would be the easiest way to go, I'd like to see some pics when you get ours done.The L99 might be worth looking into. Pulling the F-body pulley looks pretty tight, but I may be able to make a fixture to pull it forward 3/4"
Old 02-23-2011, 05:05 PM
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I just checked. I can get the 2010 Camaro W/P through my work for $110.00 That may be the ticket. I'm planning on using the KWIK Perf A/C bracket so that will change my belt routing, but it looks like the Idler may get in the way. Well There's always something.
Old 02-23-2011, 05:56 PM
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The tensioner mounting on the L99 pump is further out than the older trucks & older cars, so keep this in mind. I had to get an L99 tensioner for mine to work. The Kwik setup probably uses these mounting points, so it will likely require changes to their spacers or brackets - I really don't know. Just warning you to do some research. I have some of this info in my thread.
Old 02-23-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by -TheBandit-
The tensioner mounting on the L99 pump is further out than the older trucks & older cars, so keep this in mind. I had to get an L99 tensioner for mine to work. The Kwik setup probably uses these mounting points, so it will likely require changes to their spacers or brackets - I really don't know. Just warning you to do some research. I have some of this info in my thread.
Agreed. The outlet on the L99 pump will get in the way of the trucks alternator bracket, let alone the Idler. And even if I switch to KWIK's Alternator/Steering pump bracket it looks like it wont clear the outlet. Still checking out what others are doing. The spacers seem to be the easiest option, But $75 (really)plus the price of the F-Body pump. Right now it seems the easiest. Keep Posting ideas and I'll keep researching. Thanks
Old 02-24-2011, 03:14 AM
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Bandit is correct about the Kwik bracket. It will not work with the L99 pump or car pump with spacers. Not without modifying the Kwik spacers anyway.
The L92 truck pump will work with the Kwik bracket and will clear a cable TB or an 07+ DBW truck TB, but NOT earlier truck DBW TBs.
My 5.3 with a pulley swap and Kwik AC bracket going into a 72 442.
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Last edited by garys 68; 02-24-2011 at 07:55 AM.
Old 02-24-2011, 10:23 AM
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One additional option is to use the idler relocation bracket, like from Dirty Dingo, etc.
Check out their site.
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...=1089&CDpath=1

I have a LQ4 that Im putting LS3 heads and a FAST 102 on. So Im going to try the 3/4" water pump spacers with using a gen 4 F car pump, and this relocator and see how it works.

Its still the dead of winter here, so hopefully soon Ill get to this.

:fingers crossed:
Attached Thumbnails Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?-dirty-dingo-idler-relocator.jpg   Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?-dirty-dingo-idler-before.jpg   Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?-dirty-dingo-idler-after.jpg  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:57 AM
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I'll be running a carb so TB clearance won't be an issue. Gary68 set up is exactly what I'm going for. Which appears to be a Truck WP pulley on an F-Body Pump. Which brings us back to the original question. It looks like swapping the pulley is the way. Gary 68 how tuff was it to do. Did you cut the F-body Pulley off?
Attached Thumbnails Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?-ideal-pulley-arrangement.jpg  

Last edited by Pro-Tour Heavy Chevy; 02-24-2011 at 11:10 AM.
Old 02-24-2011, 11:09 AM
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Gary 68 I noticed you have an idler down by the power-steering pump. Was this a simple swap?
Old 02-24-2011, 11:12 AM
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I ordered the Kwik alt/ps bracket for my LQ4 6.0. I intend to use either an LS6 or a BBK intake manifold, keeping my DBW TB. I was eventually going to use their A/C bracket as well. What issues am I going to have? I've searched but haven't gotten a firm answer as to what interference I'm going to have.
Old 02-24-2011, 12:00 PM
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Here's another alternative, though expensive, Similar to Edelbrocks pump.
$255 plus shipp. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Attached Thumbnails Truck to F-Body Water pump Conversion ?-prw-waterpump.jpg  
Old 02-24-2011, 04:37 PM
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I hacked off the truck idler bracket to clear the LS1 intake. I relocated the idler to the lower bolt hole to get a little more belt wrap. All it takes is a longer bolt and spacer.
To remove a car pulley, I had to cut slots for a 3 jaw puller AND cut the pulley to get it off the shaft.



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