Danny's Miata. Self Built Badassery
12-06-2011, 03:29 AM
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Danny's Miata. Self Built Badassery This site is the best information ever.
I am building a Miata in my garage with typical tools by mainly myself.. This isn't a stocker as you will see.. It is my version of the best miata as I can make.. It has been running it's miata 1.8 boosted for a few years. 357/290. I have started to get more serious with drifting and this was needed to try and compete on a FormulaDrift level.
I am by no means a fab guy.. This is actually the first time I am doing anything more then brackets, some tube bumper ect.. I have to adhear to some rules so buying a "kit" wasnt possible. I need all the cash I can now for the upcoming season..
Here is the old setup.
The LS1 I had in the 240z but never quite finished it.. Maybe meant to be.
I am building a Miata in my garage with typical tools by mainly myself.. This isn't a stocker as you will see.. It is my version of the best miata as I can make.. It has been running it's miata 1.8 boosted for a few years. 357/290. I have started to get more serious with drifting and this was needed to try and compete on a FormulaDrift level.
I am by no means a fab guy.. This is actually the first time I am doing anything more then brackets, some tube bumper ect.. I have to adhear to some rules so buying a "kit" wasnt possible. I need all the cash I can now for the upcoming season..
Here is the old setup.
The LS1 I had in the 240z but never quite finished it.. Maybe meant to be.
12-06-2011, 03:41 AM
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I looked at Nathan's swaptastic.net a hundred times to see how the engine sat and what clearance I would need where. The rules say you must use a oem subframe with clearancing for oilpan/starter being ok among a few more details but I checked with tech and was given the OK to proceed. This was what was keeping me from buying a Flyin Miata swap kit. Or else I would have let their research make things effortless. So this is where I thought i would need to modify..
drop subframe and let's start
chop gussets like on most kits. The head and block would hit here
subframe first cuts so I can see inside and what I am working with.
Lower part chop.. The lines was after I did the first squeeze in and noted where it was not enough.
drop subframe and let's start
chop gussets like on most kits. The head and block would hit here
subframe first cuts so I can see inside and what I am working with.
Lower part chop.. The lines was after I did the first squeeze in and noted where it was not enough.
12-06-2011, 03:51 AM
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First drop in.
From all the research there is no other header option then sanderson shorties. These looked pretty similiar on sanderson's site as the miata ones. These here are the 240z headers..just wanted to see if I could get away with no buying more headers but nope.
subframe still needed to go up 2.5".
So I got it where I wanted it.. Then I plated it up and welded all together.. Long story short my fab prowess jumped in and denied me access when lining things back up.lol I hadn't braced anything and it warped to ****. Camera stopped working so no pics sorry.. Found another subframe and realized my mistakes and did things a little differently..
From all the research there is no other header option then sanderson shorties. These looked pretty similiar on sanderson's site as the miata ones. These here are the 240z headers..just wanted to see if I could get away with no buying more headers but nope.
subframe still needed to go up 2.5".
So I got it where I wanted it.. Then I plated it up and welded all together.. Long story short my fab prowess jumped in and denied me access when lining things back up.lol I hadn't braced anything and it warped to ****. Camera stopped working so no pics sorry.. Found another subframe and realized my mistakes and did things a little differently..
12-06-2011, 04:00 AM
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So this time I also left laying any beads out of the question as my skill level at this point i don't "lay beads" much anyway. I randomly scattered around a bunch of tacks till it was all sealed up.. This 2nd subframe the cuts were much better and took very minimal hammering of metal vs the prior ape style with a hammer..
and the bottom
Cut the braces off and gave it a go..Oh **** the bolts still lineup and everything goes into place like normal.. I was really stressing this as If it failed this time I don't know what I would have done.
Bedtime..
and the bottom
Cut the braces off and gave it a go..Oh **** the bolts still lineup and everything goes into place like normal.. I was really stressing this as If it failed this time I don't know what I would have done.
Bedtime..
Stay motivated & good-luck on the rest of the build. 
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12-06-2011, 05:37 PM
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So after the proper subframe mounting I slipped the motor and trans back in to see how everything worked and start working on the engine mounts.. Trying to keep it simple and easy to work on I picked up these bushing pieces and tabs. was like $50 bucks and seemed to fit my ability to make it work..
Made the engine and subframe plates..
cut and notched some tube and tacked in place where I liked it..
You can also see where i chopped thesanderson flange off and welded the vband flange to it instead to keep things easy to unbolt.
Passenger side
driver side is a little tricky with the steering shaft there. so I went with the above mount which isnt done in these pics. I will add another tube or gusset or something so it isnt hanging on the mount as much.
got a package today!
I had contacted Michael from improvedracing.com about his oil pan baffles as this was a great upgrade for cheap money to ensure the pickup see's oil all the time under the big loads and fast transitions.. Quality product and a great guy to deal with. He included a set of sway bars he specifically makes for the Mazda Miata. SWEEEEET!
Here is the underside with the baffle doors open.. Go check his stuff out!
Sleep time till I start on the trans mounting
Made the engine and subframe plates..
cut and notched some tube and tacked in place where I liked it..
You can also see where i chopped thesanderson flange off and welded the vband flange to it instead to keep things easy to unbolt.
Passenger side
driver side is a little tricky with the steering shaft there. so I went with the above mount which isnt done in these pics. I will add another tube or gusset or something so it isnt hanging on the mount as much.
got a package today!
I had contacted Michael from improvedracing.com about his oil pan baffles as this was a great upgrade for cheap money to ensure the pickup see's oil all the time under the big loads and fast transitions.. Quality product and a great guy to deal with. He included a set of sway bars he specifically makes for the Mazda Miata. SWEEEEET!
Here is the underside with the baffle doors open.. Go check his stuff out!
Sleep time till I start on the trans mounting
03-01-2012, 07:27 PM
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So got the subframe figured and added a bit more to the engine mounts for piece of mind..
passenger side
Driver side. Had to keep enough room for the 2 -10 an lines for the oil cooler setup to pass through..
Welding has been progressing.. I think most of comes from getting proper fit where as before I thought good enough and fill it in..
Trying to get killer balance front to back there was really only one answer.. Radiator in the trunk area. Don't know if a miata has ever done this but I started laying it out. It is all 1 3/8" aluminium tube. I have used a bandsaw to cut roughly 15* angles to keep from buying bends.
Taped with electrical tape to keep a semi firm shape.
I soon stopped and realized it was way easier to have a buddy go and tack as needed so he is going to do that.lol
passenger side
Driver side. Had to keep enough room for the 2 -10 an lines for the oil cooler setup to pass through..
Welding has been progressing.. I think most of comes from getting proper fit where as before I thought good enough and fill it in..
Trying to get killer balance front to back there was really only one answer.. Radiator in the trunk area. Don't know if a miata has ever done this but I started laying it out. It is all 1 3/8" aluminium tube. I have used a bandsaw to cut roughly 15* angles to keep from buying bends.
Taped with electrical tape to keep a semi firm shape.
I soon stopped and realized it was way easier to have a buddy go and tack as needed so he is going to do that.lol
03-01-2012, 07:31 PM
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Went on to start fabbing the front tube area and bash bar.
First bar.
Trying to make it stronger
Get the outtermost bar nice and tight to the bumper so bodywork doesn't get smashed before tube contacts
Camera died for some reason after this pic. All i got at the moment was this angle of the basically finished piece,
First bar.
Trying to make it stronger
Get the outtermost bar nice and tight to the bumper so bodywork doesn't get smashed before tube contacts
Camera died for some reason after this pic. All i got at the moment was this angle of the basically finished piece,
03-01-2012, 07:42 PM
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Back on track, I have been doing little things as the motor has been down at my new crew’s shop. Kyle at DDS Performance. He is a ASE master tech with alot of recent LS work and the drive to be perfect. He is an up and coming badass in the world of performance, with knowledge in every aspect of the car build he is going to be a vital part of the final touches to the car. He has recieved and cam package from Vengeance Racing with all the goodies like cam, valvetrain, Melling HV oilpump, Katech c6r timing chain and new gaskets. With his attention to detail above anything I have seen before Kyle install’s everything and does a few secret touches before handing it back. I will be doing a spotlight on Kyle along with his engineering friend Dave who will also be coming along to be my eye’s in the spotters booth. With both of these guy’s knowledge the car and the greatness of the team will strive. I am super stoked to have teamed up with them and feel confident that the v8 Miata will be reliable as ever.
Meanwhile Flying Miata sends a couple packages to the shop, Inside consists of the ls swap fuel kit which is a new Deatschwerks 300 lph fuel pump along with all the associated lines/fittings and corvette fpr/filter combo piece. Keeps everything super simple with only 1 line from the tank to the rail. The other box had the full system for the clutch hydro setup. Wilwood master cylinder ,lines and fittings. As with everything FlyinMiata does the box was complete with EVERYTHING needed. Clamps, zipties, a personal phone call to make sure I got all parts or if I had any questions. First rate CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!
Clutch showed up as well. Ended up going with a MONSTER CLUTCH 11″ setup. Saves 10+ pounds over the stock setup and has the clamping force and durability to take all the abuse for the year. It comes with a no questions asked 1 year warranty. I will be putting that to full use. With the new powerplant it will eliminate all the excessive clutch kicks and slipping to a minimum. Plus it’s super dope green!
And we hit the block with some high temp Orange to keep it Chevy!
Flyin Miata’s clutch lines and fittings with the new oem GM slave. Flying miata makes the bleed line the same length so you can now bleed the impossible to reach fitting in the trans up by the master! Brilliant.
Need to remove the dowel pin located on the “in” line from the master. Seen here with the gold fitting. Upper just pulls out.
Installed
Then into the Bellhousing
all bolted up
Time to attach it to the subframe for final install.. Hit it with some satin black!
Wrapped the headers with DEI wrap as well to help with some heat
Luckily I have spent cash and got a Lift in the garage! Making life easy!
Almost in.
Meanwhile Flying Miata sends a couple packages to the shop, Inside consists of the ls swap fuel kit which is a new Deatschwerks 300 lph fuel pump along with all the associated lines/fittings and corvette fpr/filter combo piece. Keeps everything super simple with only 1 line from the tank to the rail. The other box had the full system for the clutch hydro setup. Wilwood master cylinder ,lines and fittings. As with everything FlyinMiata does the box was complete with EVERYTHING needed. Clamps, zipties, a personal phone call to make sure I got all parts or if I had any questions. First rate CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!
Clutch showed up as well. Ended up going with a MONSTER CLUTCH 11″ setup. Saves 10+ pounds over the stock setup and has the clamping force and durability to take all the abuse for the year. It comes with a no questions asked 1 year warranty. I will be putting that to full use. With the new powerplant it will eliminate all the excessive clutch kicks and slipping to a minimum. Plus it’s super dope green!
And we hit the block with some high temp Orange to keep it Chevy!
Flyin Miata’s clutch lines and fittings with the new oem GM slave. Flying miata makes the bleed line the same length so you can now bleed the impossible to reach fitting in the trans up by the master! Brilliant.
Need to remove the dowel pin located on the “in” line from the master. Seen here with the gold fitting. Upper just pulls out.
Installed
Then into the Bellhousing
all bolted up
Time to attach it to the subframe for final install.. Hit it with some satin black!
Wrapped the headers with DEI wrap as well to help with some heat
Luckily I have spent cash and got a Lift in the garage! Making life easy!
Almost in.
03-02-2012, 05:30 AM
#13
I see that you boxed in the anti-sway bar mounts; very wise choice. Front tubes look good. Haven't seen anyone else rear mount the radiator...interesting. Probably gonna need an in-line pump to do so. Nice work. Thanks for the update.
03-15-2012, 05:30 AM
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Posted another update.. the short version is it was time to get the wiring and cooling figured out.
Wiring. Custom chassis wiring done by Kyle at DDS Performance. LS stand alone engine harness by a new sponsor. SSP Wiring out of AZ! All brand new simplified harness 3 days later and ready to go to town.
Kyle started with a panel in the back to keep it all quik and easy to diagnose.
Broke it into 2 looms to the front of the car. Power "to" and "from" and "signals"
up to the ecu and switch panel
Cool firewall connector Kyle built. Saves big money and time doing the milspec bulkhead fittings..
That is most of it till Now. It will all get loomed and tucked cleanly once testing is done and everything works flawlessly!
Moving onto the cooling stuff. This was all a prayer that it would work. Noone to really copy anything from here. The motor has had the Mezeire elec water pump already, Keeps it clean simple and gets rid of any cavitation issues and also can run while the motor is off!
I need 0 cooling issues so I kept with overkill.. Dual pass howe rad, now a ton of coolant and the overkill 18" Lincoln mark 8 fan. 2 speed up to 4800 cfm. I think more then any dual setup or forsure any single setup.
Rear coolant overflow and expansion tank. We do all the filling here with the pump on and bam bled system!
Which leaves the engine bay looking sexy and disease free!
Rear setup basically all done and together
Wiring. Custom chassis wiring done by Kyle at DDS Performance. LS stand alone engine harness by a new sponsor. SSP Wiring out of AZ! All brand new simplified harness 3 days later and ready to go to town.
Kyle started with a panel in the back to keep it all quik and easy to diagnose.
Broke it into 2 looms to the front of the car. Power "to" and "from" and "signals"
up to the ecu and switch panel
Cool firewall connector Kyle built. Saves big money and time doing the milspec bulkhead fittings..
That is most of it till Now. It will all get loomed and tucked cleanly once testing is done and everything works flawlessly!
Moving onto the cooling stuff. This was all a prayer that it would work. Noone to really copy anything from here. The motor has had the Mezeire elec water pump already, Keeps it clean simple and gets rid of any cavitation issues and also can run while the motor is off!
I need 0 cooling issues so I kept with overkill.. Dual pass howe rad, now a ton of coolant and the overkill 18" Lincoln mark 8 fan. 2 speed up to 4800 cfm. I think more then any dual setup or forsure any single setup.
Rear coolant overflow and expansion tank. We do all the filling here with the pump on and bam bled system!
Which leaves the engine bay looking sexy and disease free!
Rear setup basically all done and together
