crosstraining

iTrader: (1)

Hello LS1 techies
I have a guy helping me finish up my Nova with an LQ9 in it. The thermastat is not opening. The car has been running enough for the gauge to read 210* 3-4 times. I have all truck accessories except the water pump wich is 98-02 Camaro WP. We have used 2 new thermastats.

1. Does the Camaro WP flow a different direction?
2. Just to make sure, does the water flow out the upper hose into the radiator & back in from the lower hose?
3. Any other possibilities?
Thanks

crosstraining

iTrader: (1)

crosstraining

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crosstraining

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crosstraining

iTrader: (1)

This is a pic of someone else's belt routing, but I think mine is just like it.

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Looks like everything is correct. Why do you believe it's not opening?

When you see the 210* temps is the top hose/top of the radiator hot?

Have you tried making sure the thermostats are good by boiling them in a pot an making sure they open?

Rick Speed

iTrader: (55)

Where does your steam tube connect to?

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

It it overheating? I've had luck loosening the steam ports from the heads and using them as a bleeder for the cooling system.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Stock stat? My truck runs at 210 on the dash gauge.
Warm the engine w/ the rad cap off. Water circulating?

downset71

Very important!!! When u fill the system back up take upper hose off radiator and dump water down the hose into top side of motor!!! And then top off radiator

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yes it will only flow one way for both car and truck setups. You seem to have the belts correct also.

Test the T-Stat/Housing.. pull it off and stick it in a pot of water, turn on the heat and watch it as the water starts to heat up. Use something to measure the temp of the water as tit starts to heat up or boil. If it doesn't open up around 195-210.. it is bad.

or just try another one.

BC

crosstraining

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses. We will do some testing with the suggestions given & I will let you know how it goes.

Andy1

As it appears you have the heater functional, try turning on your heater valve upon start up and see if your thermostat opens normally. If it does, then it's a simple flow issue where the hot water is not sufficiently circulating around your thermostat. In the Fbody, they incorporate a bypass heater valve that when closed (heater off), it circulates the water back to the cold side of the water pump. Though many argue it's not necessary, my wisdom is GM designed it that way.

Andy1

crosstraining

iTrader: (1)

There appears to be something wrong with the temp gauge. When the computer is reading 210* the gauge reads about 260* & if you rev the car the gauge bounces about 10*. The hotter the engine the more it is off. I am going to call the gauge company & see if they can help me trouble shoot.
Thanks for the responses, I can report back if anyone is interested.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

as said, fill from the upper rad hose-there is no water behind the thermostat to get hot and open it-the thermo. is in the return, unlike a gen one, so when its closed water wont go into the engine-they get a lot of air in them also because of this

colgad

This method worked for me also, I really don't understand it but it does work! You would think that hot water on the backside of the thermostat would be enough to open it, but whatever works!!!

Michael Yount

iTrader: (1)

For anyone that might be following along -- something I learned long ago is that it's pretty easy to actually test the t'stat out of the car to see what it's doing. T'stats get blamed for lots of stuff only to find out later that they weren't the culprit. If you ever suspect the t'stat isn't opening or is opening at a different temp than you expect - pull it out and test it. Put it in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in the pan. And actually see if/when it's opening. Removes a variable from the equation. FWIW....

To the OP - glad you figured out the issue.

cdk4219

Even though this may be an old thread, after 30 or so ls swaps I have done I forget the small stuff. 5.3 into a short bed 94 c1500, really easy swap. Used the stock 5.7 radiator with stock 2003 radiator hoses. Filled it up and even used a vacuum assist filler (4 times) no coolant flow through the heater lines or through the radiator. The engine was seeing 210 through the gauge and non contact thermometer.

finally pulled the top hose and did this and coolant is flowing. Looks like the top hose is above the radiator filler, and on the ls trucks, the expansion filler tank is higher than all of those. Always the simple things.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

My sure fire way is to fill the block through the head steam vent hose. Yes, it is small, so you need a small funnel, and it will take some patience, but it works every time.

Andrew