Cooling a blown 1000hp motor. Opinions??
03-19-2013, 01:41 PM
#1
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Cooling a blown 1000hp motor. Opinions?? I wanted to get some imput from you guys that are making big numbers and big heat!
Finishing up my 8-71 blown 408. This is an old school roots setup with no intercooler :/. I need to know if my cooling will be enough and if you have any recomendations that dont include the addition of a intercooler. Mostly street driven on pump with meth injection. Makes around 1000fwhp.
This is going into a 3rd gen that has the engine set back 8 inches so I have plenty of room to lay the radiator back to fit a larger one.
I am running both a separate oil (7x16") and trans cooler (8x11) that will not be near the radiator but rather use custom duct work. The blower case sits about 1/3 out of the hood as does the carbs and scoop.
I was looking at this radiator: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gr...make/chevrolet
And using this with ls1 puller fans with a custom shroud.
Is this enough cooling? Suggestions? I live in NC where the summer temp are 80s-high 90s...
Finishing up my 8-71 blown 408. This is an old school roots setup with no intercooler :/. I need to know if my cooling will be enough and if you have any recomendations that dont include the addition of a intercooler. Mostly street driven on pump with meth injection. Makes around 1000fwhp.
This is going into a 3rd gen that has the engine set back 8 inches so I have plenty of room to lay the radiator back to fit a larger one.
I am running both a separate oil (7x16") and trans cooler (8x11) that will not be near the radiator but rather use custom duct work. The blower case sits about 1/3 out of the hood as does the carbs and scoop.
I was looking at this radiator: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gr...make/chevrolet
And using this with ls1 puller fans with a custom shroud.
Is this enough cooling? Suggestions? I live in NC where the summer temp are 80s-high 90s...
03-19-2013, 02:34 PM
#2
If your having issue..maybe some of these might help.. got a few friends with SBC/BBC with 6 or 8/71 ... some have heat issue.. some don't.
- As your looking at.. a HP Radiator, might look into a cooper one, might not look as cool as an Aluminum one, but do transfer heat better. Fin count and tube size do make a differences.
- Good Air Circulation around the engine and out of the engine bay.. but if the blower is sticking throught the hood.. that should help.
- Insulation where needed.
- High CFM fans.
- Water Wetter in the coolant.
- Jetcoat the headers (both inside and out) to make sure the heat is carried away.
- Water Pump should be designed correctly, not just to throw a high volume one on.. correct flow rate is what is needed.
Granted.. many will disagree or agree.. but you just need to research and try some or all of them to see what works for you.
What did you do to get the engine back 8".. cut into the Firewall and move mounts back ? just asking..
BC
- As your looking at.. a HP Radiator, might look into a cooper one, might not look as cool as an Aluminum one, but do transfer heat better. Fin count and tube size do make a differences.
- Good Air Circulation around the engine and out of the engine bay.. but if the blower is sticking throught the hood.. that should help.
- Insulation where needed.
- High CFM fans.
- Water Wetter in the coolant.
- Jetcoat the headers (both inside and out) to make sure the heat is carried away.
- Water Pump should be designed correctly, not just to throw a high volume one on.. correct flow rate is what is needed.
Granted.. many will disagree or agree.. but you just need to research and try some or all of them to see what works for you.
What did you do to get the engine back 8".. cut into the Firewall and move mounts back ? just asking..
BC
03-19-2013, 03:13 PM
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hmm some things to consider...
I was considering the 55GPM mez elec pump also..
As for the firewall...I fabricated an entire new fire wall of 20ga steel (to go along with the entire floor and trans tunnel I hand fabbed
). It turned out pretty cool because the car sits to low for traditional header location so the headers got routed through the firewall with some special made soffets then collect right under where the front of the door attaches. They kind of look like old school fender headers. I will post some pics when I get home tonight! Thanks for the imput!
I was considering the 55GPM mez elec pump also..
As for the firewall...I fabricated an entire new fire wall of 20ga steel (to go along with the entire floor and trans tunnel I hand fabbed
). It turned out pretty cool because the car sits to low for traditional header location so the headers got routed through the firewall with some special made soffets then collect right under where the front of the door attaches. They kind of look like old school fender headers. I will post some pics when I get home tonight! Thanks for the imput!
03-20-2013, 08:27 AM
#7
bczee pretty much covered everything. one thing i would add is its just as important to get the air out as get it in!anything you can do to exhaust to hot engine bay air into a nice low presure area the better.
The other thing is to not stack the coolers if possable. Give each cooler access to cold air feed. That should help keep the ambient airflow speed through the core higher and enable to core to work more efficently.
Try and keep grill mess as big as possable. its crazy how much it can restrict airflow!
Chris.
EDIT. DONT LAY THE RAD BACK! if you have space to fit a taller core then lay it forward. You can always open up the hood with vent then for added cooling.
The other thing is to not stack the coolers if possable. Give each cooler access to cold air feed. That should help keep the ambient airflow speed through the core higher and enable to core to work more efficently.
Try and keep grill mess as big as possable. its crazy how much it can restrict airflow!
Chris.
EDIT. DONT LAY THE RAD BACK! if you have space to fit a taller core then lay it forward. You can always open up the hood with vent then for added cooling.
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03-20-2013, 11:08 AM
#8
Wish I had some first hand experience to pass on. Unfortunately I have never had a king kong motor like that.
But would like to add that copper radiators do NOT cool better than aluminum. Pure copper has a higher thermal conductivity which under certain circumstances sheds heat better. But unfortunately "copper" radiators are made out of alloys and use solder to hold everything together, two significant disadvantages when compared to aluminum.
Aluminum is stronger than the old brass alloys allowing improved coolant channel designs. Modern aluminum radiators are superior to the old brass ones in pretty much every conceivable way.
Single biggest thing you can do to ensure you don't run hot is give it adequate air flow. You want to force the air through the radiator, not around it, which means it needs to get out of the engine compartment as well as in it.
But would like to add that copper radiators do NOT cool better than aluminum. Pure copper has a higher thermal conductivity which under certain circumstances sheds heat better. But unfortunately "copper" radiators are made out of alloys and use solder to hold everything together, two significant disadvantages when compared to aluminum.
Aluminum is stronger than the old brass alloys allowing improved coolant channel designs. Modern aluminum radiators are superior to the old brass ones in pretty much every conceivable way.
Single biggest thing you can do to ensure you don't run hot is give it adequate air flow. You want to force the air through the radiator, not around it, which means it needs to get out of the engine compartment as well as in it.
03-20-2013, 01:22 PM
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I agree with the aluminum radiator. I would never run copper/brass from personal experience.
So what would you recomend to get air out of the engine bay then? I would be entering through the radiator, ducting to the trans and oil coolers, and more than likely through the small areas around the blower. IMO the air has to exit either around the blower, or under the car. A cowl induction pulls air in, not out because it is a low pressure point...?
So what would you recomend to get air out of the engine bay then? I would be entering through the radiator, ducting to the trans and oil coolers, and more than likely through the small areas around the blower. IMO the air has to exit either around the blower, or under the car. A cowl induction pulls air in, not out because it is a low pressure point...?
