5.3 L33 Hp goals help!
#1
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5.3 L33 Hp goals help!
hello,
I have a bone stock L33 that I am swapping into a 2003 nissan 350z. However I want to squeeze some more power out of this engine and would like to see numbers in the neighborhood of 450 - 500rhwp. So to those of you who have actually built a 5.3 engine. What is the best way to go with the engine? can I make those numbers on an NA 5.3 with stock rotating assembly? or am I better off to just build it for forced induction?
The car will be used mostly on the street, but I do compete in a handful of road racing and drag racing events throughout the year as well.
Thank you.
I have a bone stock L33 that I am swapping into a 2003 nissan 350z. However I want to squeeze some more power out of this engine and would like to see numbers in the neighborhood of 450 - 500rhwp. So to those of you who have actually built a 5.3 engine. What is the best way to go with the engine? can I make those numbers on an NA 5.3 with stock rotating assembly? or am I better off to just build it for forced induction?
The car will be used mostly on the street, but I do compete in a handful of road racing and drag racing events throughout the year as well.
Thank you.
#2
go to carcraft.com and read on the 5.3 cam only swap dyno article. it was on a bone stock 5.3 not the l33 so the numbers will be a little higher for the l33. run a ls2 cam and springs, mill the heads .020 to make them 62cc, headers, and a good tune and you will be in 450chp territory. but still be very driveable on 91 octane pump gas.
#4
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You may want to consider boring it to LS1 Bore size and using LS6 pistons. These are the same as LS1 pistons but they fit the floating pin rods in the L33.
The standard LS1 pistons are a press pin design.
We have plenty of sponsors that sell head and cam packages that will get you in that range. You can send your heads in for exchange
Brian Tooley
SDPC
Texas Speed
Tick performance
Ballistic Speed Parts
These are just a few of the many sponsors in no particular order that can help you get there.
Guys like WCCH and TEA can port your existing heads if you decided to do it in small stages.
The standard LS1 pistons are a press pin design.
We have plenty of sponsors that sell head and cam packages that will get you in that range. You can send your heads in for exchange
Brian Tooley
SDPC
Texas Speed
Tick performance
Ballistic Speed Parts
These are just a few of the many sponsors in no particular order that can help you get there.
Guys like WCCH and TEA can port your existing heads if you decided to do it in small stages.
#5
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If you run a manual transmission, you might be able to get to 450 whp N/A but getting much higher will require a power adder of some sort. Full effort 5.3L builds with intake, cam, heads and headers usually peak right around 500 fwhp so you would need 10% of less driveline loss to see 450 whp.
My LS4 (close sister the L33 - both aluminum 5.3's with 243/799 heads) put down 382 whp using a collection of stock parts (LS2 intake, LS7 exhaust manifolds) and a 224/232 DOD compatible camshaft... A non-dod camshaft would help, but I need ported heads and a better intake to get much above 400 rwhp
Here is a near 500 fwhp build:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/..._build_part_3/
Here is a 511 hp 5.3L turnkey engine:
A destroked 6.0 (5.4L) with LS3 heads and a huge cam made 500 flwhp at 7K:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...5-1-500hp.html
My LS4 (close sister the L33 - both aluminum 5.3's with 243/799 heads) put down 382 whp using a collection of stock parts (LS2 intake, LS7 exhaust manifolds) and a 224/232 DOD compatible camshaft... A non-dod camshaft would help, but I need ported heads and a better intake to get much above 400 rwhp
Here is a near 500 fwhp build:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/..._build_part_3/
Here is a 511 hp 5.3L turnkey engine:
A destroked 6.0 (5.4L) with LS3 heads and a huge cam made 500 flwhp at 7K:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...5-1-500hp.html
#6
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If N/A and with a stock bottom end and a good H/C/I... I would say in the high 300's to maybe 400+ (maybe 420ish max) if you got a good tuner... for RWHP.
But define Streetable ?.. getting near the higher range of the HP end is not going to be very Street Friendly.
But define Streetable ?.. getting near the higher range of the HP end is not going to be very Street Friendly.
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#9
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go to carcraft.com and read on the 5.3 cam only swap dyno article. it was on a bone stock 5.3 not the l33 so the numbers will be a little higher for the l33. run a ls2 cam and springs, mill the heads .020 to make them 62cc, headers, and a good tune and you will be in 450chp territory. but still be very driveable on 91 octane pump gas.
On a side note. does anyone have any information on boosted 5.3's? can they hold low boost on stock rods?
#11
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Ported stock heads, a decent cam, LS6 intake, 1 3/4" long tube headers and a single 3/5" or dual 2.5" exh with a good 4" cold air intake and a sweet tune up on an L33?
It'll be an absolute blast, sheer joy lemme tell ya.
As for the cam? Suit yourself if you want to chase power numbers but you cant race a dyno and unless its a drag only machine Id shy away from huge donkey cams. Something like a TR224 or the TSP228R or in that range will be plenty of fun on a 5.3 and still haul ***.
Your just not going to get anywhere near 450 whp with that set up. Needs more cubes.
1.2 hp per CID is doable, after that? It start to get REALLLLLLLLY expensive. Better to add boost
It'll be an absolute blast, sheer joy lemme tell ya.
As for the cam? Suit yourself if you want to chase power numbers but you cant race a dyno and unless its a drag only machine Id shy away from huge donkey cams. Something like a TR224 or the TSP228R or in that range will be plenty of fun on a 5.3 and still haul ***.
Your just not going to get anywhere near 450 whp with that set up. Needs more cubes.
1.2 hp per CID is doable, after that? It start to get REALLLLLLLLY expensive. Better to add boost
#12
hello,
I have a bone stock L33 that I am swapping into a 2003 nissan 350z. However I want to squeeze some more power out of this engine and would like to see numbers in the neighborhood of 450 - 500rhwp. So to those of you who have actually built a 5.3 engine. What is the best way to go with the engine? can I make those numbers on an NA 5.3 with stock rotating assembly? or am I better off to just build it for forced induction?
The car will be used mostly on the street, but I do compete in a handful of road racing and drag racing events throughout the year as well.
Thank you.
I have a bone stock L33 that I am swapping into a 2003 nissan 350z. However I want to squeeze some more power out of this engine and would like to see numbers in the neighborhood of 450 - 500rhwp. So to those of you who have actually built a 5.3 engine. What is the best way to go with the engine? can I make those numbers on an NA 5.3 with stock rotating assembly? or am I better off to just build it for forced induction?
The car will be used mostly on the street, but I do compete in a handful of road racing and drag racing events throughout the year as well.
Thank you.
All about what you're looking for though!
#13
I have a 01 5.3 in the Trans-Am I just bought. Ported ls6 heads, tsp torquer v2 cam, long tubes, etc..
I am guessing I am at the edge of what is considered street friendly and I probably put down 360 whp on a dynojet.
I am guessing I am at the edge of what is considered street friendly and I probably put down 360 whp on a dynojet.
#14
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Dont get too hung up on "dyno numbers" especially stuff you read in magazines or posted online. Some shops have very generous dynos, some have stingy dynos. Best thing to look for is vehicle weight, and trap speed. That'll tell you whos moving what, how fast, with accuracy.
1/4 mile times can be somewhat misleading but i wont get into that its too much to type.
A na 5.3 with a good combo can do 350-380whp or so. Yes it can produce more, but that would be realistic to expect as not every engine with the same parts produces the same number. To expect yours to be that one magic set up that does? Might as well buy a lotto ticket.
It really in the end is simple. How fast do you want to buy? Establish a budget/fund and then we can help you spend it so you get the most bang for your buck if you like.
1/4 mile times can be somewhat misleading but i wont get into that its too much to type.
A na 5.3 with a good combo can do 350-380whp or so. Yes it can produce more, but that would be realistic to expect as not every engine with the same parts produces the same number. To expect yours to be that one magic set up that does? Might as well buy a lotto ticket.
It really in the end is simple. How fast do you want to buy? Establish a budget/fund and then we can help you spend it so you get the most bang for your buck if you like.
#15
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Let me make this a little more clear. Im not to worried about how streetable the car really is it will be driven on the street but even if its a more track oriented car I will be able to manage it on the street. So lets not get to hung up on that. I just am wondering the best way to reach my power goal of near 500 rwhp.
so far I got a few saying its possible to reach 450 NA and some saying its not.
Anyone got advise on a forced induction set up? Will the engine be a ticking bomb if i dont build it with all forged interanls on FI? or can a stock bottom end 5.3 hold low boost all day?
thanks for all the input so far! appreciate it!
so far I got a few saying its possible to reach 450 NA and some saying its not.
Anyone got advise on a forced induction set up? Will the engine be a ticking bomb if i dont build it with all forged interanls on FI? or can a stock bottom end 5.3 hold low boost all day?
thanks for all the input so far! appreciate it!
#16
TECH Junkie
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Totally doable with boost. Safe to 550 whp on an L33 without issue, some push them well past 700 whp on STOCK shorts but they dont last long, some not a single pass, others a couple seasons. Regardless at that level its race gas territory. If you want the tons of fun option? Get a roots type SC whipple or a maggie. They arent cheap but power right off idle, all the way to redline. Consult Brian Tooley for a cam to match and look out it will be a blast. Pump gas you might do 550 whp on 94 if you get a good tuner.
If you add meth you can go for more. If you run race gas you can go for more again.
But as I said, cost. Your running a 1500 dollar or less short block with the L33 and looking to add 10-15K worth of boost parts on there.... why not start with a 6K engine and hit your goal NA all day long?
LS3
If you add meth you can go for more. If you run race gas you can go for more again.
But as I said, cost. Your running a 1500 dollar or less short block with the L33 and looking to add 10-15K worth of boost parts on there.... why not start with a 6K engine and hit your goal NA all day long?
LS3
#18
Others can correct me if I am wrong, but from what I have read, the 5.3 can give you 500whp pretty easily with boost without having to build the bottom end.
I read that the top ring gap should be filed if you want more than 550-600 whp. As you would expect, timing and fuel are an important part of keeping the engine in tact.
I read that the top ring gap should be filed if you want more than 550-600 whp. As you would expect, timing and fuel are an important part of keeping the engine in tact.
#19
TECH Junkie
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For budget 5.3 stuff look into Denmahs builds. Just keep in mind;
Cheap/durable/fast
You only can pick two so understand the risks and have fun. 4K is doable for the 350hp+ NA 5.3 with ease and the route id take so it lasts a while. Trying to do cheap boost? Boooooooooom goes the dynamite. Heck even a good tune on a boosted engine is going to eat up a big chunk of your budget....
Unless you can do it all yourself its going to get pricey REAL quick with boost.
Cheap/durable/fast
You only can pick two so understand the risks and have fun. 4K is doable for the 350hp+ NA 5.3 with ease and the route id take so it lasts a while. Trying to do cheap boost? Boooooooooom goes the dynamite. Heck even a good tune on a boosted engine is going to eat up a big chunk of your budget....
Unless you can do it all yourself its going to get pricey REAL quick with boost.
#20
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I pretty much knew boost would cost me a lot more. That's why I was looking more toward NA. doing the swap in its self is going to cost me around 8k which is killing the engine build budget. thanks for information