1968 Impala Turbo LY6/4L80e Swap - 798 RWHP @ 17 PSI
08-03-2015, 10:23 PM
#83
Beautiful !!!!!!
08-08-2015, 08:15 PM
#84
I had the intercooler welded up at Sound Performance in Bensenville IL. I stopped in to check out the boost activated exhaust cutouts and they specialize in Supras but do pretty much everything. I noticed how nice some of the intercooler fab work was so I asked for a quote and they turned it around quick.
08-11-2015, 08:36 PM
#85
Hammered out more wiring and prepped the intercooler housing for media blasting and powder coating.
I borrowed this cool little gloss meter we use at work to measure gloss levels of inks and coatings. Instead of guessing what sheen I need to match the core support I can just measure their samples to get in the ballpark.
I started to run the harness and everything is looking good. I used the old pedal lever hole and bracket and cut it to fit the harness and grommet. This branch has the outputs for the tach, DLC, MIL, Pedal, and MAP reference for the rising rate fuel pressure that will run back to the Vaporworks controller. Andy at Affordable Fuel Injection also called Dakota Digital to find out what VSS wire is needed for the ECD-100 Speedo Driver and integrated it into the harness as well.I also mounted the speedo driver and tach module under the dash were its out of plain sight but still easily accessible for programming.
I borrowed this cool little gloss meter we use at work to measure gloss levels of inks and coatings. Instead of guessing what sheen I need to match the core support I can just measure their samples to get in the ballpark.
I started to run the harness and everything is looking good. I used the old pedal lever hole and bracket and cut it to fit the harness and grommet. This branch has the outputs for the tach, DLC, MIL, Pedal, and MAP reference for the rising rate fuel pressure that will run back to the Vaporworks controller. Andy at Affordable Fuel Injection also called Dakota Digital to find out what VSS wire is needed for the ECD-100 Speedo Driver and integrated it into the harness as well.I also mounted the speedo driver and tach module under the dash were its out of plain sight but still easily accessible for programming.
08-15-2015, 11:19 PM
#90
Beautiful !!!!............Great Job !!!!!!
Ken
Ken
08-17-2015, 06:49 PM
#91
Thank you sir. Did you decide on your engine plans for the New Yawk car yet?
I decided to make a list of tasks that need to get crossed off like the TV shows. I was a little discouraged when it filled the whole board and I could have added more stuff. This project has strained the household and I admit I underestimated the amount of time required to do it right the first time. The wife has been supportive but for the first time the deadline of winter has become very real. The original goal was the end of July and now I really want to have the car running and tuned before the salt hits.
Sometimes you just have to buy stuff to stay motivated. I had a Summit discount code so I used it.
Instead of snaking an upper hose all over, I searched the net for a radiator shop that might be able to move the barb. One of the few manufacturers for Model T radiators happens to be 5 minutes from my house and seemed happy to help out. $65 got me a new location and wont be noticeable when painted.
This is the kind of stuff that takes time. I needed to run the fuel pressure module control wires, pump enable, alt wire, and starter wire to the rear. The best way is the factory harness sheath so out came the rear seats, and carpet. Fortunately I did not have to remove the Strato beast seat completely.
I also decided to experiment with slit sleeve harness loom. For some reason I thought this stuff would look out of place but I needed to do something with the factory harness wrap that is really starting to show its age. Turns out it looks very nice and is easy to work with. McMaster Carr has it for around a buck a foot in 3' sections. I will need a 25' roll to finish and its about $22.00.
I decided to make a list of tasks that need to get crossed off like the TV shows. I was a little discouraged when it filled the whole board and I could have added more stuff. This project has strained the household and I admit I underestimated the amount of time required to do it right the first time. The wife has been supportive but for the first time the deadline of winter has become very real. The original goal was the end of July and now I really want to have the car running and tuned before the salt hits.
Sometimes you just have to buy stuff to stay motivated. I had a Summit discount code so I used it.
Instead of snaking an upper hose all over, I searched the net for a radiator shop that might be able to move the barb. One of the few manufacturers for Model T radiators happens to be 5 minutes from my house and seemed happy to help out. $65 got me a new location and wont be noticeable when painted.
This is the kind of stuff that takes time. I needed to run the fuel pressure module control wires, pump enable, alt wire, and starter wire to the rear. The best way is the factory harness sheath so out came the rear seats, and carpet. Fortunately I did not have to remove the Strato beast seat completely.
I also decided to experiment with slit sleeve harness loom. For some reason I thought this stuff would look out of place but I needed to do something with the factory harness wrap that is really starting to show its age. Turns out it looks very nice and is easy to work with. McMaster Carr has it for around a buck a foot in 3' sections. I will need a 25' roll to finish and its about $22.00.
08-22-2015, 06:05 AM
#92
Wiring, wiring, and more wiring. Not much to see with that.
The first part of the 4" down pipe is tacked in place. I was able to make sure the angles I have will work. Most of it will be made of stainless 45 degree bends.
I also got the intercooler painted and put together. It came out just how I wanted it to.
The first part of the 4" down pipe is tacked in place. I was able to make sure the angles I have will work. Most of it will be made of stainless 45 degree bends.
I also got the intercooler painted and put together. It came out just how I wanted it to.
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lemans1 (12-08-2021)
08-22-2015, 07:38 AM
#94
It is one of my concerns. I can only go off of my past experience that these engines have very efficient cooling. Couple that with a wide open front with excellent airflow and decent fans it might work fine. I know the intercooler and turbo piping will create additional cooling system stress but I don't plan on running road courses or mile events. Under most conditions it will be like a stock truck motor with a small cam. If I have issue then a rework is not horrible to get an aftermarket unit in there.
08-26-2015, 09:08 PM
#96
Today was a great day and the extra effort is paying off. Amidst endless hours of wiring and fabrication I have been dwelling on the fact that one stupid mistake could really derail the progress. Instead of waiting until everything was done I decided to prime and test fire the engine before fabrication is done. This more reachable goal motivated me to get working on the stuff I have been putting off.
Here is a short video of the oil pressure gauge during priming.
This milestone eased many lingering questions about what has been accomplished. The fact that the ECM is talking to the OBD reader has eased my mind and has lit the fire again. I hope see the log on fire this weekend!
Coil detailing ugh.
Before
After
Oops, where did that go. Blasting is complete and off to the welder to get the tubes fully welded. I ordered US Gear 3.31 gears and install kit through Tom's differentials. I will be using Moser Steel Street axles and a steel 1350 yoke.
After media blasting.
-8an fuel hose run. Props to the Elk Grove Village Pirtek hose shop. They refuse to take money after they cut the hoses for me.
The filler neck on the Rick's tank is a bit off. Hector already has an angles hose on the way.
Getting Closer.
Here is a short video of the oil pressure gauge during priming.
This milestone eased many lingering questions about what has been accomplished. The fact that the ECM is talking to the OBD reader has eased my mind and has lit the fire again. I hope see the log on fire this weekend!
Coil detailing ugh.
Before
After
Oops, where did that go. Blasting is complete and off to the welder to get the tubes fully welded. I ordered US Gear 3.31 gears and install kit through Tom's differentials. I will be using Moser Steel Street axles and a steel 1350 yoke.
After media blasting.
-8an fuel hose run. Props to the Elk Grove Village Pirtek hose shop. They refuse to take money after they cut the hoses for me.
The filler neck on the Rick's tank is a bit off. Hector already has an angles hose on the way.
Getting Closer.
Last edited by alocker; 08-29-2015 at 03:04 PM.
08-29-2015, 04:01 PM
#98
Congrats !!! great progress.
09-01-2015, 07:21 AM
#100
I learned a significant lesson last night about torque converter installation. After making some good progress I crawled under the car to start the down pipe fabrication. I noticed a puddle of trans fluid on the floor. After looking around I saw it cam from the cooler outlet which is not yet plumbed. In my efforts to get the motor started before I plumed the cooler lines and filled the trans I left the converter unbolted and slid back. HUGE MISTAKE! The converter nose was resting on the lip of the crank snout and with a total of about 1 minute of run time it galled the converter nose and seized it in the crank engaged only about 1/4 of the way. This caused the converter to start spinning also while still unbolted. I pulled and pried for about 2 hours realizing the trans had to come out.
Fortunately the converter came out easily once the trans was slid back and the galling was not bad at all. A little time spent with a die grinder and emery cloth to smooth it out I could reinstall. Just to make sure I did not make the same bonehead mistake again I installed the converter bolts. While starting this I actually read the Yank instructions to see if I needed loctite on the bolts and found they recommend a light coat of high temp grease on the converter snout. In 20 years of installing automatics I never thought to do this but totally understand why its needed.
Today's lesson. Never run the motor with the converter unbolted and read the damn instructions!
Fortunately the converter came out easily once the trans was slid back and the galling was not bad at all. A little time spent with a die grinder and emery cloth to smooth it out I could reinstall. Just to make sure I did not make the same bonehead mistake again I installed the converter bolts. While starting this I actually read the Yank instructions to see if I needed loctite on the bolts and found they recommend a light coat of high temp grease on the converter snout. In 20 years of installing automatics I never thought to do this but totally understand why its needed.
Today's lesson. Never run the motor with the converter unbolted and read the damn instructions!