two questions not swap related....
#1
two questions not swap related....
i knoiw this is the wrong section but there are not really any first gen guys ever over in the 67-2002 section. i was hoping someone who was doinf a first gen swap (like myself) might have this info.
1st q' do the first gen 4wheel drum non power brake cars use a proportioning valve? and does the master bolt right to the firewall?
2nd q' does anyone know the thread pitch for the wiper motor bolts? i cant find this anywhere...
i bought this car in boxes (lots of um), the whole car was torn apart and i got almost no hardware with it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/514891-my-1st-gen-swap.html
1st q' do the first gen 4wheel drum non power brake cars use a proportioning valve? and does the master bolt right to the firewall?
2nd q' does anyone know the thread pitch for the wiper motor bolts? i cant find this anywhere...
i bought this car in boxes (lots of um), the whole car was torn apart and i got almost no hardware with it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/514891-my-1st-gen-swap.html
#2
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Leon,
Q1, Yes and Yes.
Q2, I don't know, they are odd, but I have the originals in the garage, so I will check them next time I am out there.
You may find a bit of clearance issue with the 67 Wiper motor and your #7 coilpack. We went to the 5 speed DSE conversion to get the clearance. Also, add a booster to your drums, you will not believe the difference. We originally had manual drum, and added a booster to get power drum. Wow. We now have power disk/drum, and are happy with the brakes. As for hardware, have you considered just bitting the bullet and buying one of the fastener master kits for your car? You can buy various sets of bolts/clips/screws/nuts from many of the major vendors. Not always the cheapest way, but if you are really missing a bunch of hardware, may be the best way.
Q1, Yes and Yes.
Q2, I don't know, they are odd, but I have the originals in the garage, so I will check them next time I am out there.
You may find a bit of clearance issue with the 67 Wiper motor and your #7 coilpack. We went to the 5 speed DSE conversion to get the clearance. Also, add a booster to your drums, you will not believe the difference. We originally had manual drum, and added a booster to get power drum. Wow. We now have power disk/drum, and are happy with the brakes. As for hardware, have you considered just bitting the bullet and buying one of the fastener master kits for your car? You can buy various sets of bolts/clips/screws/nuts from many of the major vendors. Not always the cheapest way, but if you are really missing a bunch of hardware, may be the best way.
#4
thanks guys for the info. and i have a booster and disc/drum master off a 3rd gen, i just dont have the cash to buy the spindels and evrything else right now and i just need to make the car movable to drive it to where im going to store it fvor the next 3 years. i have to move to germany and the guy who is storing just mandates it has to be movable, when i get back from germany im going to use my 3rd gen set up and spend the 300-400 to convert the fronts to disc.
and i have a 68 wiper motor, i dont know if it will be a prob but i'll have to check on that.
and lastly, i couldn't find a listing for a drum/drum prop valve in any catalog so thats why i wondered if it used one.
do any first gen guys have cars that came drum/drum with prop valve? w/ pictures?????
and i have a 68 wiper motor, i dont know if it will be a prob but i'll have to check on that.
and lastly, i couldn't find a listing for a drum/drum prop valve in any catalog so thats why i wondered if it used one.
do any first gen guys have cars that came drum/drum with prop valve? w/ pictures?????
#6
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drum/drum, disk/drum, and disk/disk each require a different proportioning valve. Drum brakes have an actual check valve in theirs to hold about 4-5psi in the lines to keep the brake pads close to the drum since the pads are spring loaded against the brake cylinder. Disk brakes have no check valve in them because the return boot in the caliper keeps the pistons/pads right where they need to be.
Mine has manual drum/drum for now. What exactly do you want a picture of?
Mine has manual drum/drum for now. What exactly do you want a picture of?
#7
just how it all looks factory. may seem dumb but i just want to make sure im putting it all together right. im used to taking somehting apart before putting it together ya know?
the other reason i was confused is the factory assembly manual shows what looks like a prop valve , but it is labeled as a "switch asm.". and i know it needs the block for the idiot light but i didnt know if it didnt proportion anyhting, wich would mean i wouldnt need it. since i dont have one i wouldnt have to hunt it it down (im hopeing).
the other reason i was confused is the factory assembly manual shows what looks like a prop valve , but it is labeled as a "switch asm.". and i know it needs the block for the idiot light but i didnt know if it didnt proportion anyhting, wich would mean i wouldnt need it. since i dont have one i wouldnt have to hunt it it down (im hopeing).
Last edited by leonpiper69; 02-19-2008 at 08:13 PM.
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There are a few revisions you will find for several of the early camaros, but you do need the "switch assembly" as it does provide residual pressure for the drums. Some cars also had other components mounted downstream.
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i knoiw this is the wrong section but there are not really any first gen guys ever over in the 67-2002 section. i was hoping someone who was doinf a first gen swap (like myself) might have this info.
1st q' do the first gen 4wheel drum non power brake cars use a proportioning valve? and does the master bolt right to the firewall?
1st q' do the first gen 4wheel drum non power brake cars use a proportioning valve? and does the master bolt right to the firewall?
I'm not sure which models had a hold-off vavle. Maybe disc/drum? It was a round thing near the master cylinder, and made sure the rear brakes actuated before the front (or was it vice versa?). It also has a button on it that you have to hold in to bleed the brakes.
Drum/drum and Disc/drum masters should have a residual pressure valve in the outlet port(s) of the master cylinder for the drums.
The distribution block just has the warning switch, nothing else. All you lose be eliminating it is the warning light. Note: if using the warning switch and an aftermarket adjustable prop valve, make sure it is between the distribution block and rear, not between the dist block and master. Or you can eliminate the distribution block by running a simple tee for the front brakes and connecting the rear directly to the master cylinder.
For manual brakes, yes the master bolts right to the firewall.
David Pozzi has a better description of this stuff on his site: http://www.pozziracing.com/brakes.ht...Drums_to_Discs
There's also a lot of extremely knowledgable first gen guys in the Suspension & Brakes forum on camaros.net.