Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

My 98 car consistently ran 7.7's in the 1/8th with a 60' in the range of 1.70-1.73. It was a bolt on car with on et radials, yank 3600ss converter, and it had the front sway bar removed. Then the car started to have slight traction issues and started running 7.8's with a 60' of 1.75-1.77. So I bought UMI single adjustable lca's, panhard bar, relocation mounts, and subframe connectors. I put them on with the lca's in the lower holes in the relocation mounts and squared the rear end up. The car gained a lot of traction on the street so I was pretty pumped. I went to the track last night and I couldn't get out of the 8.0's. I kept having 1.79 60' time. If I tried to leave between 1000-1500 rpm's the car hooked but just didn't leave hard. I also tried leaving about 2500 rpm's but the car hooked for about 5 feet then is started spinning. Does anyone have any suggestions? It is pretty disappointing spending $450 and going backwards a couple of tenths lol. Also the car tries to go hard right when I launch it now. Everything is squared up so I am thinking I need a bigger rear sway bar, is this right?

Thanks for any help,
Chase

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

so you took the flex and some of the slop away now you've got a car that will work better but needs some tweaking.
I'd like to know what tires/shocks you're running.

Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

I am on stock 16" rims with Mickey Thompson ET radials. I was told that the suspension was probably unloading to quick and was recomended to buy a set of rear single adjustable QA1 shocks. What do ya'll think?

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Stock rear sway bar? You need to get it to leave straight first. Try moving the LCAs up one hole.

Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it is the stock rear sway bar. What is the reasoning for moving the LCAs up one hole? Are you thinking it might be planting to hard/quick then unloading the suspension?

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

When you mess with a car, there will be some tweaking like Tek said. You will get it right, I promise.

tektrans

iTrader: (23)

Well the upper and the lower are the most extreme of the 3 settings so since you are still dialing it in, you want to start in the middle and go from there.
My control arms are set in the middle.
These threads always come up and it's always like a guessing game unless the car has the basic stuff to dial the car in.
1-adj torque arm
2-subframes
3-control arms
4-adj pan bar
5-upgraded sway bar (or pass side airbag depending on power level)
6-Adjustable shocks on all 4 corners
7-15" tire and rim combo (for best results)
8-VERY important-after the upgrades are made-scale the car

Steve is right (as usual ) about the swaybar and control arm adj.
You'll always be chasing some issue and get a zillion opinions without the basic suspension components.

brandoz28

iTrader: (3)

this is what i'd do first, moving the LCA's and then look into a sway bar and torque arm.

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Putting the LCA in the middle hole will reduce the shock on the tire and not unload so fast. The hard right is a result of twist. That will also unload the suspension in a hurry. Sounds like you have a start on parts but are finding out that the package is what makes the difference.

Silver2000WS-6

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good I will try the middle hole on the lca brackets. I was told my next investment should be a set of single adjustable QA1's for the rear. Do you think that should be my next mod?

Thanks,
Chase

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

That and a good sway bar. Let me know if we can help.