MAXXLIMIT

iTrader: (16)

Ok I went to the track on 6-25-2010 and got a 11.7 @120mph. I feel like I'm leaving some ET behind.

When I also went I watched BMR's OLD VIDEO I guess on how to adjust the pinon and by there calculations on the 1st video I thought I put it at -2*, WRONG find out this week they have a updated video and going off that I was really at -7*. So that night I was running -7*. couple days ago I fixed it and by there new video I should be -2* I hope.

My cam is also very big and I know that, but do some think I would gain some tenths from my 3.73's and switch to a 4.10 gear? I go through the 1/4 mile just about 5,800rpms to me that seems low and low in my power range. I think a 4.10 would put me through around 6,400rpms that should be better right.

I launch my car from 4,200rpms. Some say to flash it around 1,800rpms or load it like I did. I noticed when I flashed it at 1,800rpms my 60ft seemed .1-.2 tenths slower and when I was loaded at 4,200rpms it was consistant 1.6-1.7's all night.

When I started the day my DR's were at 21psi and going around 118mph and as the night got somewhat cooler and I dropped my tire pressure down to 18psi my mph went up to 120mph and 60's went from 1.9-1.8's to 1.6-1.7's. Do you think I could have went down to 15psi range and been good?

Well here is what is done to the car and times and dyno numbers. It would be nice to hear from some LSx vets who can see something being left behind or some tricks to try.

LS6 Intake Manifold
SLP Air Lid
K&N Air Filter
Ford Motorsports 42# Injectors
MTI S1 Cam, 244/244 Dur, .612 int/.612 ext. Lift @.050, 112 Lsa
TrickFlow 7.400 Pushrods
Patroit Performance Stage 2 "243" P&P CNC'd Cylinder Heads
Pacesetter Long Tube Headers
Pacesetter y-pipe
Cats Deleted
Cut out installed
Yank SS4000 Torque Converter
Transmission Cooler
UMI Chassis Mounted Adj Torque Arm (set at -2 deg)
BMR Tubular Control Arms
BMR Non-Adj Panhard Bar
Motive 3.73 Ring & Pinion Gear Set
255/50/16 Mickey Thompson Drag Radials (18psi)

Race Weight With Driver 3730lbs

Speed Density Tuned
Rick Hollenbeck at Synergy Motorsports in Fremont, CA


Dyno Numbers:

414rwhp/403rwtq

Track Times:

1.68 60ft
7.57 et 1/8th mile
93.50 mph 1/8th mile
11.77 et 1/4 mile
120.66 mph 1/4 mile


DA for the day was +1975ft
mid to high 80's

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

At your weight and power level you should be able to get in the 11.5-11.6 ET range. The MPH is good, maybe a tad higher than I would expect with the high stall speed you're running. You are trying to set alot of mass into motion with the 3700lb race weight and a lower gear would definitely benefit you there. Swapping to a 4.10 gear should net you about .10 off the sixty foot and .20 off the 1/4 ET and will put you crossing at a better RPM. You just need to decide if a gear swap is worth a couple tenths.

01SS99red

iTrader: (6)

I would def. do the gear change to 4.10 will help out alot in your case. And with that mph (120) you should def. be in the low 11s Iv'e ran 11.40s with m6 at 115 with 1.59 60' and my car was leaning out but still . with just .1 in are 60' and you 5mph faster in the 1/4 you should be 11.2 -11.0 ,also dropping your tire preasure to 15 will help you 60'. keep updateing your results. And yes if you were running you pinion angle at -7 that will create more drag and slow you down im not sure how much tho. with u pinion angle at -2 and lower 60' you will be good to go.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

Depending on what you plan to do with the car (nitrous, etc), I'd say a gear change and/or converter swap should be considered. The cam size plus looking at your 60 foot time means (unless you are spinning), the converter and gear combo is not allowing your engine to hit the right spot in the power curve.

Derek

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

I agree. Your 60' should be better than it is. You make 100 more horespower than me with a bigger gear and higher stall convertor and my car will run a 1.64. I think the gear swap will net you good results.

speedfreak391

iTrader: (2)

I agree with the thought of a gear change. If you were boosting or spraying it that would be a different story though.

MAXXLIMIT

iTrader: (16)

I think i'm going to get 4.10's so it puts me in the 6400-6500rpms range when I trap threw.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

You sure you aren't spraying? That car backhalfs like a m'fer.

MAXXLIMIT

iTrader: (16)

Nope. I won't throw the bottle on til the end of this year maybe.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

That was my feeling, if you cant get that tire to hit hard, your 60 foot will be garbage and basically thats the race.

IF you put a bottle to it, then that converter is fine and 3.73's maybe the ideal gear for you. But again depends what you want. A Nasty NA car needs a 8" converter 4400 or more and let it just fly.

Weight reduction is also another thing that can make a major difference.

Ultimately air quality can vary results as well as track prep. I am willing to wager your 60 foot is a variation of bogging and hitting its sweet spot.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

I think you are not seeing the better 60's when you are flashing the converter from close to idle because you are spinning the tires. You are hitting them harder than the track can handle with your suspension set up when you let the verter flash vs stalling it up and preloading things. If I am right, you are on a stock spring/shock combo. Personally I'd spend my money there before changing the gear around, ecspecialy if your are going to spray it at the end of the year.

twpetry

iTrader: (1)

I think you need to lose about 300lbs from the car/driver