How do you shift for low ET's
#1
How do you shift for low ET's
Have an M6. Usually I try to shift it just before the peak RPM for the car setup I have. But I get very different results depending on HOW it's shifted.
For example, if I do it by letting off the gas while hitting the clutch, and shift at the bottom of the clutch, I get nice RPM curves in EFILive (very consistent shapes). On the other hand, if I wait a little and shift while the clutch is coming back up, the RPM upslopes occur later in the log but occassionally I'll misshift and mash (grind - ouch!) the gears.
I've tried shifting while hitting the clutch and backing off the gas just a little bit (70 - 80%) throttle, not a full throttle release. The car tends to transition from gear to gear faster, but the damn tach jumps around a lot and it becomes hard to tell when it's time to for the next shift. I suspect clutch slip may be what's making the gauge jump around until it "bites".
At least to me, it seems as if the last method provides a more sustained power profile. The shifts feel closer together and the car is kept in a much narrower RPM band, like 4000 - 6000 RPM (if the factory tach isn't lying), but it's harder to nail the exact 6000 RPM spot where I should be shifting...
Anyone care to share your shifting secrets?
For example, if I do it by letting off the gas while hitting the clutch, and shift at the bottom of the clutch, I get nice RPM curves in EFILive (very consistent shapes). On the other hand, if I wait a little and shift while the clutch is coming back up, the RPM upslopes occur later in the log but occassionally I'll misshift and mash (grind - ouch!) the gears.
I've tried shifting while hitting the clutch and backing off the gas just a little bit (70 - 80%) throttle, not a full throttle release. The car tends to transition from gear to gear faster, but the damn tach jumps around a lot and it becomes hard to tell when it's time to for the next shift. I suspect clutch slip may be what's making the gauge jump around until it "bites".
At least to me, it seems as if the last method provides a more sustained power profile. The shifts feel closer together and the car is kept in a much narrower RPM band, like 4000 - 6000 RPM (if the factory tach isn't lying), but it's harder to nail the exact 6000 RPM spot where I should be shifting...
Anyone care to share your shifting secrets?
#2
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First get an after-market tac with shift light. Set it at 6000 (or 6100) on the stock rev limiter of 6150.
On the shifting, why let off the gas at all . Learn to power shift. Without letting off the gas, jam in the clutch and shift all in the same motion. It will take practice, but after a while it is second nature. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Oh forgot, hope you have upgraded your clutch and tranny
David
On the shifting, why let off the gas at all . Learn to power shift. Without letting off the gas, jam in the clutch and shift all in the same motion. It will take practice, but after a while it is second nature. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Oh forgot, hope you have upgraded your clutch and tranny
David
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Originally Posted by Navy David SS
First get an after-market tac with shift light. Set it at 6000 (or 6100) on the stock rev limiter of 6150.
On the shifting, why let off the gas at all . Learn to power shift.
David
On the shifting, why let off the gas at all . Learn to power shift.
David
You can be just as fast shifting if you practice.
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#9
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Originally Posted by FAST LS1
I lift also but shift as fast as humanly possible. I try to shift as close to the limiter as possible on every shift.
#12
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yes i do it's (pro-67005c) this is for the black shift light case. they also come in blue pro-67005bc,red pro-67005rc and silver pro-67005sc. it's a didial and go turn the **** to any rpm u want. no pills and can be adj-in odd # rpm's(6,100-6,200,6,300 and so on till 12,000rpm's) $49.88 this is bad azz.
Last edited by mike c.; 02-07-2004 at 03:04 PM.
#13
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What about a Harlan shift light - red, yellow, green, orange, or blue LED's - adjustable from 500-12,000 for 2,4,6, and 8 cylinders with no pills or modules. It too is only $50 & $5 shipping. The biggest complaint I hear is that it takes a while to get it once it's ordered. Damn, this sounds like an add.
#14
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I've had my Harlan light for almost 2 years. I set it when I first got it and it's never given me a bit of trouble. Never had to be re-programmed or anything. Also I must have been one of the rare ones, I got my light in under 3 weeks & was prepared to wait 2 months for it.
#15
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get a shift light
if you are stock set it to 5800 because by the time you shift to second you will be at 6000. first gear revs fast.
second to third i wait a lil after the light goes on then shift but i listen to the motor also
and third to forth same thing just wait alil longer
and i dont powershift
12.40 @ 112 1.96 60ft(clutch slipin)
lid catback, nitto
12.51@115.5 best mph 1.94 60ft(tires blazin)
oh and i run a raptor shift light better the the harlen anyday
if you are stock set it to 5800 because by the time you shift to second you will be at 6000. first gear revs fast.
second to third i wait a lil after the light goes on then shift but i listen to the motor also
and third to forth same thing just wait alil longer
and i dont powershift
12.40 @ 112 1.96 60ft(clutch slipin)
lid catback, nitto
12.51@115.5 best mph 1.94 60ft(tires blazin)
oh and i run a raptor shift light better the the harlen anyday
#16
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You can certainly be fast without powershifting - and you'll save parts, too. However, if you want to squeeze the last little bit of ET out of your car, aggressive powershifting (done correctly) will produce the best times.
#17
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i can paoershift and i do it well its just that once powershifting 4th my trans got stcuk in forthgear and it came out and i dont have any problems now but until i have the cash to really beef it up i dont wana break it