12s with these mods?
09-16-2014, 10:14 AM
#1
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12s with these mods? Hey guys, just looking for some input. My car is a 2000 z28 camaro auto 323s
Mods:
Lid
Ls6 intake
Qtp longtubes
4" ORY
Cut out
Tune
Last run on street tires was 13.2 @ 106
What do you think I would run with a 3200 stall and drag radials?
The reason I ask is because I got almost all the parts for a cam swap but if i can achieve mid 12s without touching the motor I might not cam my engine..
Mods:
Lid
Ls6 intake
Qtp longtubes
4" ORY
Cut out
Tune
Last run on street tires was 13.2 @ 106
What do you think I would run with a 3200 stall and drag radials?
The reason I ask is because I got almost all the parts for a cam swap but if i can achieve mid 12s without touching the motor I might not cam my engine..
09-16-2014, 07:16 PM
#5
there have been bone stock M6 & A4 cars that have gone 12's on stock tires down to the stock air filter , most go low to mid 13's. Your mods should go mid 12's in decent air , add a stall like your thinking low 12's ( closer to 4k would be better and leave room to work well with a cam later).
My stalled A4 car is a pretty direct comparison for what your looking to do.
stock internals , ls6 intake, kooks lt's , magnaflow catback with ory , 80 mm TB , slp lid and lower sheet metal airbox , underdrive pulley , ac delete , 3600 vigilante , 373's , qa1's , sfc's , lower control arms on MT et streets , car went 12.1 @112 noticeably missing up top , ended up being a weak fuel pump , need to get car back to the track lol sidenote paid $3200 with all mods in place 4 years ago , theres advantages to bought not built lol
Where do you race ? location is huge in getting good results ( temps and altitude)
My stalled A4 car is a pretty direct comparison for what your looking to do.
stock internals , ls6 intake, kooks lt's , magnaflow catback with ory , 80 mm TB , slp lid and lower sheet metal airbox , underdrive pulley , ac delete , 3600 vigilante , 373's , qa1's , sfc's , lower control arms on MT et streets , car went 12.1 @112 noticeably missing up top , ended up being a weak fuel pump , need to get car back to the track lol sidenote paid $3200 with all mods in place 4 years ago , theres advantages to bought not built lol
Where do you race ? location is huge in getting good results ( temps and altitude)
09-16-2014, 07:48 PM
#6
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there have been bone stock M6 & A4 cars that have gone 12's on stock tires down to the stock air filter , most go low to mid 13's. Your mods should go mid 12's in decent air , add a stall like your thinking low 12's ( closer to 4k would be better and leave room to work well with a cam later). My stalled A4 car is a pretty direct comparison for what your looking to do. stock internals , ls6 intake, kooks lt's , magnaflow catback with ory , 80 mm TB , slp lid and lower sheet metal airbox , underdrive pulley , ac delete , 3600 vigilante , 373's , qa1's , sfc's , lower control arms on MT et streets , car went 12.1 @112 noticeably missing up top , ended up being a weak fuel pump , need to get car back to the track lol sidenote paid $3200 with all mods in place 4 years ago , theres advantages to bought not built lol Where do you race ? location is huge in getting good results ( temps and altitude)
Thanks for the info, last time I raced DA was around 2000ft wen I ran a 13.2. The humidity was around 80% and temp was high 80s. I'm gunna wait until it's cooler out before I hit the track again. By then I should have my 3200 stall converter in and find out my results.
09-16-2014, 09:07 PM
#7
Thanks for the info, last time I raced DA was around 2000ft wen I ran a 13.2. The humidity was around 80% and temp was high 80s. I'm gunna wait until it's cooler out before I hit the track again. By then I should have my 3200 stall converter in and find out my results.
what were your 60 foot times??
your 106 trap in that da will likely pick up by at least 2mph in good air , tires are all you should need to get well into the 12's in good air , stall will get you closer to low 12's IMO
maybe consider pulling your front sway bar for the track also.
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09-17-2014, 07:17 AM
#8
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I just got toyo proxes TQ drag radials which supposedly grip better than the nitto 555R, we will see.
As far as 60ft , 2.1x is my average. I couldn't get below that with these tires. (Nexen n3000 summer tires)
As far as 60ft , 2.1x is my average. I couldn't get below that with these tires. (Nexen n3000 summer tires)
10-07-2014, 08:34 AM
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Well I got the TQ converter being installed today! So I should be get into the 12s now! 
im doing to much DD recently to justify putting on my drag radials. I will be driving much less in December so I will be putting them on sometime later this year.
As for camming the engine. It's a go for now! Still need some springs and a oil pump but those parts will be ordered soon enough. I'd like to hit 11s with the motor cammed.
im doing to much DD recently to justify putting on my drag radials. I will be driving much less in December so I will be putting them on sometime later this year. As for camming the engine. It's a go for now! Still need some springs and a oil pump but those parts will be ordered soon enough. I'd like to hit 11s with the motor cammed.
10-07-2014, 01:50 PM
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Well I got the TQ converter being installed today! So I should be get into the 12s now! im doing to much DD recently to justify putting on my drag radials. I will be driving much less in December so I will be putting them on sometime later this year.
As for camming the engine. It's a go for now! Still need some springs and a oil pump but those parts will be ordered soon enough. I'd like to hit 11s with the motor cammed.
im doing to much DD recently to justify putting on my drag radials. I will be driving much less in December so I will be putting them on sometime later this year. As for camming the engine. It's a go for now! Still need some springs and a oil pump but those parts will be ordered soon enough. I'd like to hit 11s with the motor cammed.
10-07-2014, 06:17 PM
#13
with the stall traction will be considerably worse your going to want those toyos ready to go , you will see what I mean when you take it for a ride with the stall - its night and day you will love it !
10-08-2014, 08:30 AM
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just hop on your local craigs list and buy a cheap pair of stock wheels to mount your dr's on - should be able to find a pair of stock 4th gen wheels for under $100 with the stall traction will be considerably worse your going to want those toyos ready to go , you will see what I mean when you take it for a ride with the stall - its night and day you will love it !
so I still haven't drove it. What is so night and day about it?
10-08-2014, 08:02 PM
#17
it will immediately be right in the powerband and stay in it with a stall convertor vs stock convertor , the higher the stall the more pronounced but even if you went conservative like the 3200 you mentioned in your first post it will turn into a tire frying machine - it will feel like you added 100 hp seat of the pants when you mash it. Its the best bang for the buck short of spray you can get for an ls1
12-23-2014, 02:16 PM
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Bumping up this thread. The converter is in and drag radials on. I got one run at the track the other day. I turned 12.9 at 107. My 60ft was 1.91. Previously my best was 13.2 on street tires and no stall.
I didn't run the car as hard as possible so I'm heading back in January to try and get to mid 12s. Also racing for the first time with a new set up doesn't help when you only get one chance to race. Any tips to help launch with drag radials and a 3200 stall will be appreciated!
Thx
I didn't run the car as hard as possible so I'm heading back in January to try and get to mid 12s. Also racing for the first time with a new set up doesn't help when you only get one chance to race. Any tips to help launch with drag radials and a 3200 stall will be appreciated!
Thx
12-23-2014, 02:23 PM
#19
TECH Junkie
Run the drag radials at 18psi , do a long smokey burn out, stall it up to about 1300 rpms and let it rip !
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; 12-23-2014 at 02:35 PM.
