Where to start
02-11-2016, 03:05 PM
#1
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Where to start I recently picked up a 98 TA auto with the intentions of making it a street/strip car with the ET goal of low 11's high 10's. Now this is my first GM car so my question is where should the smart money go? My heart says boost (turbo kit) heads exhaust and all the go fast goodies but my head says rear end drivetrain and suspension to handle all the power. So I guess I'm just trying to get some feedback and opinions from you guys that have been racing with this platform for years. Basically as the title says where do I start? or in other words where would you start if you had a clean slate?
02-11-2016, 04:00 PM
#4
02-11-2016, 04:08 PM
#6
Converter!!!!!!
I had 2 cars go in the 11's and never touched the motor. This put me in the 11s twice.
1- converter Yank 4000 SS
2- tires, (275/50/15 ) you can make all the power you want but who cares if you can't put it down .
3- exhaust (Tsp 1 7/8 headers and pick your catback)
I had 2 cars go in the 11's and never touched the motor. This put me in the 11s twice.
1- converter Yank 4000 SS
2- tires, (275/50/15 ) you can make all the power you want but who cares if you can't put it down .
3- exhaust (Tsp 1 7/8 headers and pick your catback)
02-11-2016, 04:12 PM
#7
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Converter!!!!!!
I had 2 cars go in the 11's and never touched the motor. This put me in the 11s twice.
1- converter Yank 4000 SS
2- tires, (275/50/15 ) you can make all the power you want but who cares if you can't put it down .
3- exhaust (Tsp 1 7/8 headers and pick your catback)
I had 2 cars go in the 11's and never touched the motor. This put me in the 11s twice.
1- converter Yank 4000 SS
2- tires, (275/50/15 ) you can make all the power you want but who cares if you can't put it down .
3- exhaust (Tsp 1 7/8 headers and pick your catback)
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02-11-2016, 04:20 PM
#8
Yes but my wife's car just broke the pinion gear in November after it went 11.83 with mods listed. But sticking up for the 10 bolt it did have at least 300 passes on it and a best of 1.53 60' pulling the front wheel. Both cars now have a 9 in as we race every week sometimes twice a week.
02-11-2016, 04:25 PM
#9
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Yes but my wife's car just broke the pinion gear in November after it went 11.83 with mods listed. But sticking up for the 10 bolt it did have at least 300 passes on it and a best of 1.53 60' pulling the front wheel. Both cars now have a 9 in as we race every week sometimes twice a week.
02-11-2016, 04:31 PM
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02-11-2016, 06:59 PM
#15
I agree with nj02z that stall is the best bang for the buck.
a4 cars survive pretty well through the 11's on a 7.5" 10 bolt , 6 speed car looking to race and work your way down to 10's rear would be top priority but I would stick with the 10 bolt until you are well into the 11's.
Real good bolt ons , sticky tires , stall and enough suspension mods to put that power down you should be into the 11's since your in CT and have excellent racing weather at several tracks around you - New England Dragway , Lebanon Valley , and real early and real late season atco in jersey are all tracks that get hero weather spring and fall so your mod dollar gets you more results if you pay close attention to density altitude before going to the track.
Where your eventual goal is 10's large primary long tube headers like 1&7/8 with true duals , cutouts ,or some other form of non restrictive sewer pipe lol
Fast intake w/ size matched TB
aggressive stall 4K or a bit higher since your stated priority is track times
aftermarket torque arm and relocation brackets for lower control arms
proper tune
and maybe a small shot of spray and you should be right where you want to be and right about on budget.
If you go heads cam you will need most of the stuff I listed anyways as "supporting mods" so you will also be in good shape for when you have more funds and want to cam or heads or both lol
Do you know if it has 273's or 323's for rear gears ?
a4 cars survive pretty well through the 11's on a 7.5" 10 bolt , 6 speed car looking to race and work your way down to 10's rear would be top priority but I would stick with the 10 bolt until you are well into the 11's.
Real good bolt ons , sticky tires , stall and enough suspension mods to put that power down you should be into the 11's since your in CT and have excellent racing weather at several tracks around you - New England Dragway , Lebanon Valley , and real early and real late season atco in jersey are all tracks that get hero weather spring and fall so your mod dollar gets you more results if you pay close attention to density altitude before going to the track.
Where your eventual goal is 10's large primary long tube headers like 1&7/8 with true duals , cutouts ,or some other form of non restrictive sewer pipe lol
Fast intake w/ size matched TB
aggressive stall 4K or a bit higher since your stated priority is track times
aftermarket torque arm and relocation brackets for lower control arms
proper tune
and maybe a small shot of spray and you should be right where you want to be and right about on budget.
If you go heads cam you will need most of the stuff I listed anyways as "supporting mods" so you will also be in good shape for when you have more funds and want to cam or heads or both lol
Do you know if it has 273's or 323's for rear gears ?
02-11-2016, 07:17 PM
#16
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I agree with nj02z that stall is the best bang for the buck.
a4 cars survive pretty well through the 11's on a 7.5" 10 bolt , 6 speed car looking to race and work your way down to 10's rear would be top priority but I would stick with the 10 bolt until you are well into the 11's.
Real good bolt ons , sticky tires , stall and enough suspension mods to put that power down you should be into the 11's since your in CT and have excellent racing weather at several tracks around you - New England Dragway , Lebanon Valley , and real early and real late season atco in jersey are all tracks that get hero weather spring and fall so your mod dollar gets you more results if you pay close attention to density altitude before going to the track.
Where your eventual goal is 10's large primary long tube headers like 1&7/8 with true duals , cutouts ,or some other form of non restrictive sewer pipe lol
Fast intake w/ size matched TB
aggressive stall 4K or a bit higher since your stated priority is track times
aftermarket torque arm and relocation brackets for lower control arms
proper tune
and maybe a small shot of spray and you should be right where you want to be and right about on budget.
If you go heads cam you will need most of the stuff I listed anyways as "supporting mods" so you will also be in good shape for when you have more funds and want to cam or heads or both lol
Do you know if it has 273's or 323's for rear gears ?
a4 cars survive pretty well through the 11's on a 7.5" 10 bolt , 6 speed car looking to race and work your way down to 10's rear would be top priority but I would stick with the 10 bolt until you are well into the 11's.
Real good bolt ons , sticky tires , stall and enough suspension mods to put that power down you should be into the 11's since your in CT and have excellent racing weather at several tracks around you - New England Dragway , Lebanon Valley , and real early and real late season atco in jersey are all tracks that get hero weather spring and fall so your mod dollar gets you more results if you pay close attention to density altitude before going to the track.
Where your eventual goal is 10's large primary long tube headers like 1&7/8 with true duals , cutouts ,or some other form of non restrictive sewer pipe lol
Fast intake w/ size matched TB
aggressive stall 4K or a bit higher since your stated priority is track times
aftermarket torque arm and relocation brackets for lower control arms
proper tune
and maybe a small shot of spray and you should be right where you want to be and right about on budget.
If you go heads cam you will need most of the stuff I listed anyways as "supporting mods" so you will also be in good shape for when you have more funds and want to cam or heads or both lol
Do you know if it has 273's or 323's for rear gears ?
02-26-2016, 03:38 PM
#17
TECH Enthusiast
Adding to the already suggested!
Converter is a must, trans cooler as well.
Nice full exhaust system. If you can pick up an ls6 intake for the right price do it! A cam with a nice tune, some weight pulled and I'd be willing to bet you'd be pretty close to your goal
best of luck
Converter is a must, trans cooler as well.
Nice full exhaust system. If you can pick up an ls6 intake for the right price do it! A cam with a nice tune, some weight pulled and I'd be willing to bet you'd be pretty close to your goal
best of luck
02-27-2016, 07:18 AM
#18
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Adding to the already suggested!
Converter is a must, trans cooler as well.
Nice full exhaust system. If you can pick up an ls6 intake for the right price do it! A cam with a nice tune, some weight pulled and I'd be willing to bet you'd be pretty close to your goal best of luck
Converter is a must, trans cooler as well.
Nice full exhaust system. If you can pick up an ls6 intake for the right price do it! A cam with a nice tune, some weight pulled and I'd be willing to bet you'd be pretty close to your goal
best of luck
02-27-2016, 07:58 AM
#19
post #6 from nj02z is pretty much what you see the guys that have been through multiple 4th gens do , go aggressive with the stall , tires that will hook it , long tubes and I would suggest x pipe and true duals from there you will know how much more you need to do depending on how close you are to your goals.
If the car is more strip than street you may even consider going more aggressive with the stall , a bolt on car makes good power once you get the rpm's up and most convertors come with one free restall if you feel you went too far. Also its pretty common for people to go higher on the restall on a car that is slanted towards et's vs daily driving.
If the car is more strip than street you may even consider going more aggressive with the stall , a bolt on car makes good power once you get the rpm's up and most convertors come with one free restall if you feel you went too far. Also its pretty common for people to go higher on the restall on a car that is slanted towards et's vs daily driving.
02-27-2016, 08:08 AM
#20
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post #6 from nj02z is pretty much what you see the guys that have been through multiple 4th gens do , go aggressive with the stall , tires that will hook it , long tubes and I would suggest x pipe and true duals from there you will know how much more you need to do depending on how close you are to your goals.
If the car is more strip than street you may even consider going more aggressive with the stall , a bolt on car makes good power once you get the rpm's up and most convertors come with one free restall if you feel you went too far. Also its pretty common for people to go higher on the restall on a car that is slanted towards et's vs daily driving.
If the car is more strip than street you may even consider going more aggressive with the stall , a bolt on car makes good power once you get the rpm's up and most convertors come with one free restall if you feel you went too far. Also its pretty common for people to go higher on the restall on a car that is slanted towards et's vs daily driving.