Decent ET, but what's up with my 60 ft.?
04-16-2005, 04:25 PM
#1
Decent ET, but what's up with my 60 ft.? Ran the car last night with the new cam (T-ReX) and more weight reduction. Got her down to 3105 with me in it. Anyhow, DA wasnt that great (+355), but surely surprised myself with my ETs. Best run was a 10.76 @ 124.46 on a 1.49 60 ft. My 60 fts. for the night were 1.49, 1.49, 1.50, 1.51, and 1.51. What is up with that? For the ET, you would expect it to be 60 footing better than that. Best 60 ft. with the old cam (C2) was a 1.46 with -1800 DA. Anyhow, this cam definately has a lot more mid and top end power, but I think something is going wrong out of the hole? Any ideas or suggestions? Any help is much appreciate, thanks.
04-16-2005, 04:54 PM
#2
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Ran the car last night with the new cam (T-ReX) and more weight reduction. Got her down to 3105 with me in it. Anyhow, DA wasnt that great (+355), but surely surprised myself with my ETs. Best run was a 10.76 @ 124.46 on a 1.49 60 ft. My 60 fts. for the night were 1.49, 1.49, 1.50, 1.51, and 1.51. What is up with that? For the ET, you would expect it to be 60 footing better than that. Best 60 ft. with the old cam (C2) was a 1.46 with -1800 DA. Anyhow, this cam definately has a lot more mid and top end power, but I think something is going wrong out of the hole? Any ideas or suggestions? Any help is much appreciate, thanks.
DAMN!! We would kill for a DA like that! we are at sea level but usually sit at 600-3000 DA!
04-17-2005, 07:31 PM
#5
BMR-
k-member
upper and lower a-arms
relocation brackets
Hal-
275 lb. front springs
R series front shocks
rear shocks
Spohn-
adjustable torque arm (chromoly w/poly bushing)
lower control arms (chromoly w/poly/spherical bushings)
panhard bar (chromoly w/poly/spherical bushing)
tubular sub-frame connectors (chromoly)
1" rear swaybar (chromoly)
aftermarket rear end swaybar kit
Airlift airbag in right rear spring (15 psi)
12 psi hot in ET Drags
3 on front shocks
5 on rear shock
-2 pinion angle
k-member
upper and lower a-arms
relocation brackets
Hal-
275 lb. front springs
R series front shocks
rear shocks
Spohn-
adjustable torque arm (chromoly w/poly bushing)
lower control arms (chromoly w/poly/spherical bushings)
panhard bar (chromoly w/poly/spherical bushing)
tubular sub-frame connectors (chromoly)
1" rear swaybar (chromoly)
aftermarket rear end swaybar kit
Airlift airbag in right rear spring (15 psi)
12 psi hot in ET Drags
3 on front shocks
5 on rear shock
-2 pinion angle
04-18-2005, 02:07 AM
#6
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try decreasing your pinion angle lower. Maybe -1.5 or less as your suspension is pretty built. maybe there is not a whole lot of slop going on to counter out the -2. Did you also try playing with psi in the tires? With 3100 lb race weight on a 4.10 and 4400 stall i would think you would be leaving the line a lot harder.
Nate
Nate
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04-21-2005, 04:29 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
What do you mean? How would the side walls be shot?
The sidewalls could be shot because of setting on the car to long. Do you put your car up on jack stands when you are not racing or does it just set on the slick all the time?
Rotate the slicks. Take the one on the right side and switch it to the left side. Then take the one you took off the left side and put it on the right side. I do this about every 20 to 25 passes.
Coach
04-21-2005, 04:32 PM
#14
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The side wall is taking a very hard hit on the launch. If you do not rotate the tires side to side you can wear the sidewalls out faster than normal. This happens because the slick will have the tendancy to hit the same spot over and over again. Talk to some one that runs a fast heads up class and they should agree that the sidewalls will wear out much faster than the contact part of the slick.
Driving with the slicks on the street will also punish the sidewalls because they are acting as a shock absorber.
If the sidewall is dead, the slick will not function properly.
Driving with the slicks on the street will also punish the sidewalls because they are acting as a shock absorber.
If the sidewall is dead, the slick will not function properly.
04-21-2005, 04:38 PM
#15
Originally Posted by LS1SSII
The side wall is taking a very hard hit on the launch. If you do not rotate the tires side to side you can wear the sidewalls out faster than normal. This happens because the slick will have the tendancy to hit the same spot over and over again. Talk to some one that runs a fast heads up class and they should agree that the sidewalls will wear out much faster than the contact part of the slick.
Driving with the slicks on the street will also punish the sidewalls because they are acting as a shock absorber.
If the sidewall is dead, the slick will not function properly.
Driving with the slicks on the street will also punish the sidewalls because they are acting as a shock absorber.
If the sidewall is dead, the slick will not function properly.
Coach
04-21-2005, 04:59 PM
#16
The car does sit a lot and I dont put it on jackstand. I usually just leave it the way it is. The air seeps out after a while and will be flat before I know it. Its flat right now. I will swap the tires, but is it too late? How many passes does a ET Drag last?
04-21-2005, 11:41 PM
#17
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I'd say it depends on how abused the ties are. Each set is going to be different. I only use mine for one season and replace them. I run a bracket car that will 60' any where from 1.46 to 1.51 depending on how the track is. I would say I will put on anywhere from 100 to 150 passes per season. I rotate them side to side after every race and keep the car off the ground as much as possible. If your car sat over the winter on the slicks your running...they might be worn out.
How was the track the night you ran? A good gauge of this is to find someone who is a track regular and ask them how they are running that day. Sometimes the track will go away and a car with a small tire will be very inconsistant.
Last Sunday when I raced the sun kept popping in and out... The track temp was going from 110 to 95 degrees. If it was at 95 the car would go 1.48...if it was at 110 the car would go 1.51. It was not a lot of fun trying to guess the dial-in.
Oh well, Hope that helps some????
How was the track the night you ran? A good gauge of this is to find someone who is a track regular and ask them how they are running that day. Sometimes the track will go away and a car with a small tire will be very inconsistant.
Last Sunday when I raced the sun kept popping in and out... The track temp was going from 110 to 95 degrees. If it was at 95 the car would go 1.48...if it was at 110 the car would go 1.51. It was not a lot of fun trying to guess the dial-in.
Oh well, Hope that helps some????
04-22-2005, 05:23 PM
#20
Ok...let's say it is the slicks. How much could it be hurting me because I would think the car should be 60 footing in the low 1.4s possibly high 1.3s. I know the new cam shifted the rpm band about 300 rpms, do you think I need a more aggressive torque converter? Maybe steeper gear and bigger tire? Something just doest add up to me.