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Old 06-14-2008, 09:15 AM
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Default roll cage info

needing a roll cage for my car tracks around here even the locals are starting to crack down on the book rules. also my parents and girlfriend (mainly the girlfriend) really wants me to get a cage which i can respect that so...

im looking into a cage but its in my street/strip car it will be a low 10's or high 9's 1/4 mile car.

basically i want the biggest, safest cage without have to run the bars through my dash and stuff because its not an all out drag car.

can anyone post pics of their similar setups?

how much should i be looking to spend on a cage?
Old 06-14-2008, 10:15 AM
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Our 10 point is good to 8.50. It is CM and includes the window net. They start at 1800.00 installed. We always run the window bars through the dash. It adds structure and strength to the cage. It you needed to test the cage this setup is a lot stronger than a cage with bends to clear the dash. The bends become the collapse point. Straight bars do not collapse nearly as easy.
Old 06-14-2008, 10:27 AM
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Here is a picture of my 6-point roll bar. An 8-point (the only difference from mine is the two small kicker bars to the back seats) is good to 10.00 in the quarter mile with an unmodified floor pan and firewall. That is your best bet without having to run the extra two bars through the dash, especially if it rarely ever sees 9's unless you spray it once in a blue moon. One more thing, do not try to sacrfice safety trying to conserve comfortability by only installing a 4-point without the doorbars. I have daily driven my for nearly 2 years with this cage in it and after a few times of getting used to hopping over the door bar, it's as if they are never there. Good luck on your decision!

Old 06-14-2008, 10:59 AM
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.

Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.

.
Old 06-14-2008, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
.

Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.

.

Amen to that!
Old 06-14-2008, 02:41 PM
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as in 358chevycamaros post, can i run the race harness with my stock SS seats? is there a NHRA rule about the seats or is changing to race seats only weight reduction?
Old 06-14-2008, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
.

Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.

.
YEP!! im basically getting a 10 point with some extras and a funny car halo for a mid 9 car. a few extra bars for safety is always good.
Old 06-14-2008, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 358chevycamaro
Here is a picture of my 6-point roll bar. An 8-point (the only difference from mine is the two small kicker bars to the back seats) is good to 10.00 in the quarter mile with an unmodified floor pan and firewall. That is your best bet without having to run the extra two bars through the dash, especially if it rarely ever sees 9's unless you spray it once in a blue moon. One more thing, do not try to sacrfice safety trying to conserve comfortability by only installing a 4-point without the doorbars. I have daily driven my for nearly 2 years with this cage in it and after a few times of getting used to hopping over the door bar, it's as if they are never there. Good luck on your decision!
A little mis-information here

A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) is legal from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). An 8-point bar adds the 2 bars off the main hoop to reinforce the bar to the subframe connectors (if present) or the rear subframe torque boxes. They are not required on a roll bar but are required on a roll cage.

More info here:
www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=880990
Old 06-15-2008, 10:45 AM
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I just did a 6-point chromemoly roll bar with dual swing-out's that will legally get me to 10:00 et. And still cruise without the side bars.





Old 06-17-2008, 09:21 PM
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anyone else please post pics of your camaro or ta with a cage in it
Old 06-17-2008, 09:30 PM
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I put mine in a month ago... Its a Wolfe CM.



Old 06-17-2008, 09:41 PM
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If you are planning on going 10's, just put in the 10-point. Wolfe makes a kick-*** set up.

David
Old 06-17-2008, 09:48 PM
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heres my 6pt.







Old 06-19-2008, 09:14 AM
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Here's a 10 pt we are currently building for a Firebird!




Old 10-31-2008, 11:22 AM
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If its going to be driven on the streeet a lot I would not put a cage in the car. It is unsafe. stick to a 6pt rollbar.
Old 10-31-2008, 11:36 AM
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i lik this thread because after this winter i should be at this point wats better the ove the seat or through the panels for the rear bars? also im 6'4" and i really need to be able to lean the seat back a bit to be able to drive it does the crossbar stop u from being able to hav the seat back all the way and tilted back some?
Old 10-31-2008, 03:15 PM
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Indukted1 does that fit through the door now that you have it partially assembled. I'm guessing yes since you do it, but it doesn't look like it would. I'm guessing you take at least one of the doors off.
Old 10-31-2008, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by z28rob18
im 6'4" and i really need to be able to lean the seat back a bit to be able to drive it does the crossbar stop u from being able to hav the seat back all the way and tilted back some?
Yes...the crossbar made the stock seats uncomfortable (I'm 6'3"). The only way you could lean the seat back was if you moved the base forward a lot. If the base of the seat was all the way back, you couldn't lean the seat back much. I was always battling the seat positions trying to find something comfortable, but never could. I eventually just switched out the stockers for a pair of kirkeys and I fit great.

I have seen a few that have the crossbar set back to give the seat more room, but I don't know how legal that is. It definitely isn't as strong as having the crossbar directly in line with the hoop.
Old 11-01-2008, 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mrdragster1970
.

Once you run 9's, it's a full race car & the cage needs to be done correctly. Comfort is over.
Door bars, roof bars & net will be a way of life, FOREVER. Net can be removed, helps a little, when not at track.
Just use plenty of padding to save bonking your head & legs. Good luck.

.


HERE HERE! Out of every thing I have did with this car the cage was the turning point.

No matter how hard you try on thise cars once it run's a nine and you HAVE to put the cage in street days are not nearly as much fun. My Wife won't even get IN my car now so it only gets used for racing now...
Old 11-01-2008, 09:57 AM
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Here's the Sportsman(8.50)cage in my "street" car.... may be more than what you're looking to do. Everyone's tolerance for the effort is negotiable. Car was built by Jon Sandahl @ Tube Chassis Designz in Mass. back in '94.













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