Sts Oil Restrictor Question
10-24-2009, 10:08 PM
#1
Sts Oil Restrictor Question ok im in getting ready to install t76 sts..just trying to get all my ducks in a row..i have read the thread about buying the restrictors and running the pump on high all the time by doing away with the resistor..my question is that should you do both the restrictor and run the pump on high? pretty new to this but dont want to starve turbo of oil..Thanks for help..Chase
10-25-2009, 06:54 PM
#4
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The whole restrictor thing is completly unnecessary. The STS kit is designed without a restrictor and it works great. People have been using the restrictor to compensate for something else that is causing a problem, I.E. improper installation!!!!
10-26-2009, 12:50 AM
#6
the restrictor is used to keep too much oil from entering the turbo I assume. It lets only so much in there because with it running on high it is creating more of a vacuum but I don't know for sure cause I am not sure because I kinda use one but not really it is more of a valve.
10-26-2009, 09:52 AM
#7
yeah i believe i am going to run pump on high at all times and use no restrictor..even with ported oil pump and added washers for more psi (old turbo buck trick of my dads) during the summer 100+ degree heat at idle i will see only 20 psi oil pressure..IMO thats a little low to use restrictor and pump on high...so that s what i will do..Thanks for the replies !! Chase
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10-26-2009, 12:23 PM
#8
I am running a rear mount GT-88 with the mocal oil pump. Hot wire kit direct to the oil pump, so max power all the time. I do not use a restrictor but I do use a 1 psi pressure check on the inlet of the turbo to keep the oil from migrating into the turbo once the engine and pumps are shut off. My pressure at idle on a hot 105 degree day is 40 psi at 800 rpm. I also run 20w50 oil. There is no need for a Restrictor but you will need the check. I think STS kits come with a check. Good luck.
10-26-2009, 01:35 PM
#9
I am running a rear mount GT-88 with the mocal oil pump. Hot wire kit direct to the oil pump, so max power all the time. I do not use a restrictor but I do use a 1 psi pressure check on the inlet of the turbo to keep the oil from migrating into the turbo once the engine and pumps are shut off. My pressure at idle on a hot 105 degree day is 40 psi at 800 rpm. I also run 20w50 oil. There is no need for a Restrictor but you will need the check. I think STS kits come with a check. Good luck.
10-26-2009, 02:00 PM
#10
Yes, do not forget the check. I knew nothing about installing the check in my setup at first. When I first fired it up all was good but then after shutting it down and coming back out the next day, when I fired it back up it blew oil out the exhaust, at least a quart of oil. I thought I had a bad seal in the turbo. Did some research and found out about the check. I installed it and now the problem is completely gone.
Before I found out about the check I even built a 2 quart catch can, like a dry sump would have. The check valve worked perfectly so I never installed the catch can.
When you get your turbo, if you look into the oil inlet you will see two small holes drilled going to each bearing. Those holes work like "restrictors". They are taken into account during the engineering of the turbo by the manufactures. They will allow the correct amount of pressurized oil into the turbo, so there is no need for use to re-engineer this with restrictors unless you have some killer oil pressure, like 100+ psi. If you have that kind of oil pressure you will wash the rod and main bearings out, so there is no reason to run that kind of oil pressure, no reason to install a restrictor, no need to re-design the turbo oiling, just supply the oil to the turbo post oil filter, put a 1 psi check so the oil in the engine oil galleys does not migrate into the turbo once you shut it off, and make sure you have a pump that will move all the oil back to the oil pan. Make sure the oil return is above the oil level so the air in the oil can get out before falling back into the pan, and try to return the oil below the windage trey so your crankshaft is not playing patty cake with it. If you are running forged pistons go to a heavier oil like 20w50 and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Before I found out about the check I even built a 2 quart catch can, like a dry sump would have. The check valve worked perfectly so I never installed the catch can.
When you get your turbo, if you look into the oil inlet you will see two small holes drilled going to each bearing. Those holes work like "restrictors". They are taken into account during the engineering of the turbo by the manufactures. They will allow the correct amount of pressurized oil into the turbo, so there is no need for use to re-engineer this with restrictors unless you have some killer oil pressure, like 100+ psi. If you have that kind of oil pressure you will wash the rod and main bearings out, so there is no reason to run that kind of oil pressure, no reason to install a restrictor, no need to re-design the turbo oiling, just supply the oil to the turbo post oil filter, put a 1 psi check so the oil in the engine oil galleys does not migrate into the turbo once you shut it off, and make sure you have a pump that will move all the oil back to the oil pan. Make sure the oil return is above the oil level so the air in the oil can get out before falling back into the pan, and try to return the oil below the windage trey so your crankshaft is not playing patty cake with it. If you are running forged pistons go to a heavier oil like 20w50 and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
10-26-2009, 06:46 PM
#11
Yes, do not forget the check. I knew nothing about installing the check in my setup at first. When I first fired it up all was good but then after shutting it down and coming back out the next day, when I fired it back up it blew oil out the exhaust, at least a quart of oil. I thought I had a bad seal in the turbo. Did some research and found out about the check. I installed it and now the problem is completely gone.
Before I found out about the check I even built a 2 quart catch can, like a dry sump would have. The check valve worked perfectly so I never installed the catch can.
When you get your turbo, if you look into the oil inlet you will see two small holes drilled going to each bearing. Those holes work like "restrictors". They are taken into account during the engineering of the turbo by the manufactures. They will allow the correct amount of pressurized oil into the turbo, so there is no need for use to re-engineer this with restrictors unless you have some killer oil pressure, like 100+ psi. If you have that kind of oil pressure you will wash the rod and main bearings out, so there is no reason to run that kind of oil pressure, no reason to install a restrictor, no need to re-design the turbo oiling, just supply the oil to the turbo post oil filter, put a 1 psi check so the oil in the engine oil galleys does not migrate into the turbo once you shut it off, and make sure you have a pump that will move all the oil back to the oil pan. Make sure the oil return is above the oil level so the air in the oil can get out before falling back into the pan, and try to return the oil below the windage trey so your crankshaft is not playing patty cake with it. If you are running forged pistons go to a heavier oil like 20w50 and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
Before I found out about the check I even built a 2 quart catch can, like a dry sump would have. The check valve worked perfectly so I never installed the catch can.
When you get your turbo, if you look into the oil inlet you will see two small holes drilled going to each bearing. Those holes work like "restrictors". They are taken into account during the engineering of the turbo by the manufactures. They will allow the correct amount of pressurized oil into the turbo, so there is no need for use to re-engineer this with restrictors unless you have some killer oil pressure, like 100+ psi. If you have that kind of oil pressure you will wash the rod and main bearings out, so there is no reason to run that kind of oil pressure, no reason to install a restrictor, no need to re-design the turbo oiling, just supply the oil to the turbo post oil filter, put a 1 psi check so the oil in the engine oil galleys does not migrate into the turbo once you shut it off, and make sure you have a pump that will move all the oil back to the oil pan. Make sure the oil return is above the oil level so the air in the oil can get out before falling back into the pan, and try to return the oil below the windage trey so your crankshaft is not playing patty cake with it. If you are running forged pistons go to a heavier oil like 20w50 and you should be good to go.
Good luck.
10-27-2009, 11:27 AM
#12
Draining back threw the valve cover will work for now. I had mine draining threw the oil cap. I just drilled it and installed a fitting. If you ever end up needing to pull the engine you can modify the pan then.
Good luck and keep us posted on you results.
Good luck and keep us posted on you results.
06-29-2010, 03:07 PM
#16
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I am running a rear mount GT-88 with the mocal oil pump. Hot wire kit direct to the oil pump, so max power all the time. I do not use a restrictor but I do use a 1 psi pressure check on the inlet of the turbo to keep the oil from migrating into the turbo once the engine and pumps are shut off. My pressure at idle on a hot 105 degree day is 40 psi at 800 rpm. I also run 20w50 oil. There is no need for a Restrictor but you will need the check. I think STS kits come with a check. Good luck.
Thanks!
06-29-2010, 09:35 PM
#18
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i have the one from STS, i got lucky and found it for dirt *** cheap. But i have seen the ones from mcmaster work great as well.
Last edited by JAX04; 06-29-2010 at 09:49 PM.
