355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

Removing some crappy head studs from my 355 on tuesday, have my ARP head studs and plan on re-using my cometic head gaskets(they have never been run). Taking a poll on how many of you use the copper spray. I realize Cometic says install DRY. Also what sealant do you find works best on the studs?

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

use the arp moly lube on the head studs. arp provides it in the box with the headstuds

keep in mind that the torque numbers are different for the moly lube then oil, just read the little paper and you should be fine

G Engines

I use it. Make sure your surfaces are very clean and dry of oil or coolant.

subarubill96

iTrader: (9)

id call them up and ask before i did anything.
cometics ive noticed to be kinda hit or miss when put on dry. id prefer a stock MLS gasket on just about any engine since they tend to have fewer sealing issues ive noticed.
ive used permatex copper spray on 4g63's, ej's and 7mgte's when copper head gaskets are used due to the slight imperfections that can cause leaks. the biggest thing is making sure that both sides are flat (head and block), MLS just happens to be alot more forgiving than copper.
elias hit it on the head about the torque specs being different, so as long as you take that in to account id use ARP moly lube.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

I have heard cometics are good and some say they suck due to pushing water. My surfaces are correct finish wise but alot of people believe in the copper spray. Does GM offer MLS head gaskets for the LT1?

As far as the head studs go, I am curious as to the studs that go into the coolant passages. I know they need to be sealed or they will leak like a sieve.

I Know most of you guys are running the LS1 and alot of stuff doesn't translate.

YSILT1

iTrader: (6)

You are right you need to run sealant on the studs going in the water jacket. I use the liquid PST Locktight thread sealer and the moly lube on everything else. I run Cometic gaskets as is and have had no problems. They hold 18lbs of boost without pushing water.

lt1badbird

iTrader: (-1)

IIRC the second fasted LT1 ever BIG PURPLE went 8.50's @ 176 mph using cometics and copper spray

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Dry on new Cometics, copper spray on used ones if the thin layer of stock coating appears damaged at all. Very important to prep the block and head surfaces as per their directions - if you have a rougher surface then use a different gasket design.

Jim

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

I run the GM MLS currently, but have always run copper spray (including cometics on my old motor which was iron block/iron head). It takes VERY little spray to be effective, goop it on and you'll have problems.

02 z/28

iTrader: (19)

I did mine,a very light coat and you will be good.

RAACCR

Teflon paste on the studs going into the block.
ARP moly lube on the threads, washers and nuts above the deck.
Spray the Cometics with copper (even though Cometic says not to).

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

Thanks guys

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Put copper spray lightly on my cometics in my 97 talon. Was running 25psi no problem.

Currently running ls7 gaskets on my 408 with afr 225 but going to change them out to ls9MLS or possibly cometic.Would as said use some light copper spray I think.

fabgmc4me

iTrader: (5)

I suggest using the copper spray with the cometics.

I installed them dry the first time, and they seaped oil. I pulled the heads, bought new Gaskets, copper sprayed them, and reinstalled, that seamed to fix the problem.

Make sure to be carfeful that everything is clean, and follow the normal head tourque sequence. I also use arp studs.

This was done on my LT1 car.

355TurboLT1

iTrader: (11)

Good deal. I will prob order some new ones just to be safe and spray them lightly as mentioned.

fabgmc4me

iTrader: (5)

You will need to drill the rivets, and spray each one separately. You will also need them to setup some before installing them on the car.

I thought about reusing my old ones, but then decided I only wanted to pull the heads once, and not waste even more time redoing the process again.

G Engines

DO NOT drill the rivets out that is not something you need to do or recommended

1Bad86Gn

iTrader: (6)

Actually...Alot of Guys drill the rivets and spray each layer in the Turbobuicks.Alot of the cometic failures I have seen has been between the layers...Some get away with Installing them DRY,As per cometics instructions.most do not.Whichever way you go,It is good insurance to drop a few Gm sealing tabs into the Radiator.

I know a Guy in Maryland that turns out some killer stage 2 buick motors,He does not drill the Rivets...But uses a light Dusting of Hylomar on each side...Never a problem.

That is the same method I use myself,Never a problem..well north of 25psi on the little 4bolts per Cylinder 6.

Hylomar Aerosol is probably the best to use...It can be tough to find though,Some motorcycle shops still carry it,Or it can be found online.Supposedly it is used by Rolls Royce in there Engines.

Here is a link where it can be found... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...alants-_-2VUU9

fabgmc4me

iTrader: (5)

Not sure why you would say that. A friend of mine who has been professionally building engines for 20 years, is who gave me the process of what to do, and he does that on a regular basis. You just need to be careful when drilling the rivets to not deform the gasket layers, then spray each individual layer.

As the other poster above said, the turbo buick guys do it, along with some of the mustang, and LT1/Small block guys.

G Engines

I have ben building engines professionally for 14 years, I have worked for Richard Childress Racing all of witch their engines run cometic gaskets none of them have the rivets drilled. Our shop currently has the worlds 2nd fastest V6 Turbo Buick Owned by Bob Stanley. This not something I would do or recommend to do.