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Best budget forged bottome end?

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Old 03-09-2010, 06:10 PM
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Default Best budget forged bottome end?

I am going to be doing a D1SC build, going for 600-700rwhp.

What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam

Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.

With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.

Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
Old 03-09-2010, 07:17 PM
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Ehh I was looking at the same engine and kinda went away from it. Dont forget a good set of heads too. Its not 3300 either lol. Call them and talk to them.
Old 03-09-2010, 07:20 PM
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the best budget bottom end is to buy a used ( or new) one from someone who has decided to change their mind. I bought my forged bottom end with 4k miles for 2G with a cam.
Old 03-09-2010, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
Ehh I was looking at the same engine and kinda went away from it. Dont forget a good set of heads too. Its not 3300 either lol. Call them and talk to them.
You mean it's more?

I was also considering the SLP402.

I plan on taking a set of 317 heads to WCCH to be ported. I'll also have them port match my Victor JR to the heads.
Old 03-09-2010, 07:22 PM
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Could do rods and pistons on a 347 for pretty cheap.

Yea it ends up costing more. ARP head studs, head gaskets, lifters, pushrods, shipping (big one)
Old 03-09-2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
Could do rods and pistons on a 347 for pretty cheap.
Yeah, but I don't want to skimp that much. I figured I'll kick myself in the end for not aleast going with a 370...
Old 03-09-2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by GTO Eric
the best budget bottom end is to buy a used ( or new) one from someone who has decided to change their mind. I bought my forged bottom end with 4k miles for 2G with a cam.
thats what im trying to find!
Old 03-09-2010, 07:26 PM
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good luck, i sold my old ls2 block and crank for 600 on top of that. so 1400 for a forged bottom end isn't bad if you ask me.
Old 03-09-2010, 07:26 PM
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I spent 5500 on all my parts using a used block off a good buddy. All are good parts as well. I advise aginst using 317 heads though. Shoot me a pm
Old 03-09-2010, 07:27 PM
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I have about $2300 in my forged 347(all new parts) it helps doing almost all the work yourself
Old 03-09-2010, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
I spent 5500 on all my parts using a used block off a good buddy. All are good parts as well. I advise aginst using 317 heads though. Shoot me a pm
why is this?
Old 03-09-2010, 07:32 PM
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Its a little easier/cheaper to drop the compression through a dished set of pistions. If you run 317's you cant mill them for future rebuilds and you can only run heads with 72cc combustion chambers from then on
Old 03-09-2010, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I am going to be doing a D1SC build, going for 600-700rwhp.

What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam

Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.

With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.

Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
Can't beat the price and value for a crate longblock 376 - $5600 from ScogginsDickey. It's factory and built for boost. Should easily make 650 rwhp on 10 - 12 lbs of boost.

Scoggins says not to worry about the rods in another thread.

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/lsx/index.jsp

This will be the budget engine for me when I replace my 347.
Old 03-09-2010, 11:18 PM
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Why not build your own? Machining isn't all that bad even these days. Guess Im old fashioned.
Old 03-09-2010, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 355TurboLT1
Why not build your own? Machining isn't all that bad even these days. Guess Im old fashioned.
If you can spring for about $100k+ worth of shop equipment its not a bad option to do it yourself.

Even blocks fresh out of the crate, first thing we do is line hone them.
Old 03-10-2010, 12:00 AM
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I was referring to having his block machined local and assembling it himself with whichever parts he has selected.
Old 03-10-2010, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
Its a little easier/cheaper to drop the compression through a dished set of pistions. If you run 317's you cant mill them for future rebuilds and you can only run heads with 72cc combustion chambers from then on
why cant you mill the 317 heads?
Old 03-10-2010, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by blue00ZZleeper
Its a little easier/cheaper to drop the compression through a dished set of pistions. If you run 317's you cant mill them for future rebuilds and you can only run heads with 72cc combustion chambers from then on
So why cant you mill these heads versus other heads? No offense but you sound like your on crack. Same rule would apply to all heads... you can run whatever in future builds.

Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.


I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
Old 03-10-2010, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
So why cant you mill these heads versus other heads? No offense but you sound like your on crack. Same rule would apply to all heads... you can run whatever in future builds.

Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.


I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
His main point is that if I build a forged bottom end with the plan to use ported 317 heads, then I'd have to always use a ~72cc chambered head from that point forward. But if I build a forged bottom end with a ~65cc head like some ported 243's, then I have many other head options in the future if I plan to pick up some used AFR's or TFS heads.
Old 03-10-2010, 12:47 PM
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His power goals are 600ish hp, hes more than likely never going to want go with a set of heads worth 2k. Stick with the 317s.


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