Best budget forged bottome end?
#1
Best budget forged bottome end?
I am going to be doing a D1SC build, going for 600-700rwhp.
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
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#13
I am going to be doing a D1SC build, going for 600-700rwhp.
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
What I have now for the motor
Kooks 1 7/8"x2" stepped headers 3.5" collectors
3.5" in to 4" out Y-pipe merge
4" cutout
Edelbrock Victor JR
Edelbrock 90* elbow
Holley 90mm TB
EPP cam
Now all I need a block to slap it all on.
I was looking at a 370cu.in iron block from Texas Speed.
With Wiseco dished pistons, Callies rods, stock crank, ARP main studs it comes out to ~$3,362.00.
Anyone have any reommendations/suggestions/substitues for a budget forged bottom end?
Scoggins says not to worry about the rods in another thread.
http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/lsx/index.jsp
This will be the budget engine for me when I replace my 347.
#18
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.
I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
#19
So why cant you mill these heads versus other heads? No offense but you sound like your on crack. Same rule would apply to all heads... you can run whatever in future builds.
Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.
I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...
Larger combustion chambers do more than just drop compression.... less valve shrouding = better lower lift flow numbers.
I wouldnt waste money on ARP main studs either.....even head bolts... stock parts would hold well more than your targeted HP. Some of that stuff is so over rated. I would even use stock rods w/ some better bolts. ......actually for that HP.... I use all stock stuff ...