Hobbs switch after bypass valve?
06-08-2010, 09:18 PM
#1
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Hobbs switch after bypass valve? Not sure if i should put my hobbs switch before or after by pass or even run hobbs switch with a by pass just does not seem safe opening and closing so frequently. Can some one explain to me?
06-08-2010, 09:34 PM
#2
I have my hobbs switch hooked into my brake booster. It really isn't gonna matter with your blow off valve. The hobbs swith is boost activated and the bov is always open until you make boost then it shuts.
In other words your hobbs switch wont activate unless the bov shuts because you can't make boost to activate it with the valve open. The valve opens, the hobbs switch shuts off. So unless your at wot letting out of the gas and getting right back into really fast multiple times you shouldnt have a problem.
Edit: reread it and it says bypass. I would imagine the factory bypass functions in the same manner. I have a procharger with the red race valve.
In other words your hobbs switch wont activate unless the bov shuts because you can't make boost to activate it with the valve open. The valve opens, the hobbs switch shuts off. So unless your at wot letting out of the gas and getting right back into really fast multiple times you shouldnt have a problem.
Edit: reread it and it says bypass. I would imagine the factory bypass functions in the same manner. I have a procharger with the red race valve.
06-08-2010, 09:53 PM
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Well i guess what im saying is is some times you are going to have to get in and out of the throttle weather at the track or on the street just due to maybe losing traction. So would this hurt the fuel pump or make u loose enough fuel to hurt the motor? My hobbs switch we be in my intercooler plumbing thats why i was wondering if it is better to place after or before the by pass valve.
06-08-2010, 10:40 PM
#4
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Why would you put the Hobbs in your IC plumbing??? It would be much better to have it at the brake booster. The hobbs will engage at around 4lbs so unless you are getting completely out of the throttle you should be fine.
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06-09-2010, 06:55 PM
#8
Whether the pressure tap is upstream or downstream of the bypass doesn't make any difference. The pressure is the same. If you asked about upstream or downstream of the throttle, my answer would be the same, but for different reasons.
06-10-2010, 01:56 PM
#14
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I use a hobb switch on my daily driver truck that kicks on the second pump. I have a small capacitor in the hobbs wire that keeps the pump on for around two seconds after the boost drops so the pump is not coming on and off if I pedal the throttle. Not sure if it would hurt it without it as it was always inline. I also wired my pumps with a packard connector at the pump that I switch every 10,000 miles so I use each pump as the primary at some time. So far 100,000+ on two Walbro pumps.
Kurt
Kurt
06-10-2010, 02:04 PM
#15
I use a hobb switch on my daily driver truck that kicks on the second pump. I have a small capacitor in the hobbs wire that keeps the pump on for around two seconds after the boost drops so the pump is not coming on and off if I pedal the throttle. Not sure if it would hurt it without it as it was always inline. I also wired my pumps with a packard connector at the pump that I switch every 10,000 miles so I use each pump as the primary at some time. So far 100,000+ on two Walbro pumps.
Kurt
Kurt
Awesome idea. Can you show me a pic of the connector or have a part number?
06-10-2010, 02:12 PM
#16
Well my coment was just a joke really, but yeah I run both of mine all the time without any issues. And if it is a Vortech kit I would run that seconary pump all the time also, and thats just my opinion so you can over think some things way too much and I see it all the time on here one of the reasons I quit offering advice to a lot of people etc... I have 3 pumps and only one is boost referenced to come one later in the power band etc... So I am not saying there isn't a reason to use one just some setups are better with a very simple set up other than a ton of gadgets and other things to clutter up an install or another piece of equipment that could possibly fail etc...
06-10-2010, 03:54 PM
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The problem with my truck is the stock regulator was overun at low speed and idle when both pumps ran, so I had to run one only when driving normal. If you use the race type regulator both should work fine I would guess.
Kurt
Kurt