Turboed LT1 - Best Stock Spec Forged Piston for High Boost
03-09-2011, 11:13 AM
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Turboed LT1 - Best Stock Spec Forged Piston for High Boost I am in the process of purchasing components for my stock cude LT1 turbo build. Will be running a Precision 67mm billet wheel T4 rear mount with fully-forged internals, including a vacuum pump. Looking to get 8:5-1 compression, with 15-19 pounds of boost.
What forged pistons would work well for this application? I heard that SRPs are only good for about 12-13 pounds.
What forged pistons would work well for this application? I heard that SRPs are only good for about 12-13 pounds.
03-09-2011, 10:32 PM
#5
i asked corey @ clayton racing this same question almost two days ago. I was wanting to just swap out the pistons for forged, he recommended some mahle's with a -26cc for my build based on my setup. I think it would have put me at 9.6 compression. I told him max i wanted though was 12 pounds.
03-10-2011, 01:25 AM
#6
I am in the process of purchasing components for my stock cude LT1 turbo build. Will be running a Precision 67mm billet wheel T4 rear mount with fully-forged internals, including a vacuum pump. Looking to get 8:5-1 compression, with 15-19 pounds of boost.
What forged pistons would work well for this application? I heard that SRPs are only good for about 12-13 pounds.
What forged pistons would work well for this application? I heard that SRPs are only good for about 12-13 pounds.
03-10-2011, 07:31 AM
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I have SRPs and don't trust em to 12-13psi. I read about 1 guy who went thru 4 sets of em. SRP is JE but the SRps have a higher silicon content and weaker for boost. I'd spend the extra $200 and go JE. I wish I would've and actually doing just that. I wouldn't trust a cheaper SRP piston on a car thats gonna be a high notch build, especially at the heart of it. You could go 20+psi on them, but don't expect an extremely long life at that. Most of it is in the tune, yeah, but there's so many variables I wouldn't want to worry about.
JE's are $800 ish, I just was on the phone with Wiseco and they said that for what I'm doing (pretty close to your build) its $143 a hole with rings included, turns out to be about $1100 and they said they wouldnt worry about them being a weak point in a 1000rwhp car.
IMO don't go cheap, especially on internals. I bought SRPs, ran em (spiked 14psi once, forgot to turn the EBC on LOL), and then got reading deeper about them since my engine's out anyway. I'm gonna burn about $1000 just for peace of mind. Everything is relatively easy to replace, but if you pop a piston, you're not gonna be happy and wish you would've spent the extra few hundred. I mean, people have gone 10s on a stock 10 bolt, but would YOU try it?
JE's are $800 ish, I just was on the phone with Wiseco and they said that for what I'm doing (pretty close to your build) its $143 a hole with rings included, turns out to be about $1100 and they said they wouldnt worry about them being a weak point in a 1000rwhp car.
IMO don't go cheap, especially on internals. I bought SRPs, ran em (spiked 14psi once, forgot to turn the EBC on LOL), and then got reading deeper about them since my engine's out anyway. I'm gonna burn about $1000 just for peace of mind. Everything is relatively easy to replace, but if you pop a piston, you're not gonna be happy and wish you would've spent the extra few hundred. I mean, people have gone 10s on a stock 10 bolt, but would YOU try it?
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03-10-2011, 04:25 PM
#10
Some of that is from n20. A big shot of N20 is a completely different animal; much harder on parts. Those class N20 guys are especially hard on pistons running the tune up so close to the edge. That guy is also making well over 1000hp.
Last edited by stock48; 03-10-2011 at 04:30 PM.
03-11-2011, 07:11 AM
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Last I saw Tony made 820-ish rwhp, but yeah spray is different I'll admit. I'm saying don't go cheap, and be picky. Pistons are kind of important lol. I'm shooting for 800rwhp and won't run em. If its gonna be a stock crank/rods build they won't be the weakest link. Just stay away from detonation.
03-12-2011, 06:12 AM
#12
Well I was figuring ~3700lbs like most claim those cars weigh.
Yes staying out of det, and keepng AFR in check is key. I would have no problem pushing a boost SRP past 1000hp.
Another thing is piston design; all pistons of the same manufacturer arn't going to be equal on deck thickness, or top ring height. Take for instance the dish top SCB SRP piston I have sitting here was made for boost, and has a .320'' thick deck, and top ring is -.300'' down from the deck. A flat top, or dome SRP piston that was designed for to be a light weight NA piston is going to have a much thinner deck, and higher top ring location. Throw your big shot of n20 or untuned boost on that and you could have an ashtray.
Yes staying out of det, and keepng AFR in check is key. I would have no problem pushing a boost SRP past 1000hp.
Another thing is piston design; all pistons of the same manufacturer arn't going to be equal on deck thickness, or top ring height. Take for instance the dish top SCB SRP piston I have sitting here was made for boost, and has a .320'' thick deck, and top ring is -.300'' down from the deck. A flat top, or dome SRP piston that was designed for to be a light weight NA piston is going to have a much thinner deck, and higher top ring location. Throw your big shot of n20 or untuned boost on that and you could have an ashtray.
Last edited by stock48; 03-12-2011 at 06:46 AM.
03-12-2011, 07:30 AM
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Well I was figuring ~3700lbs like most claim those cars weigh.
Yes staying out of det, and keepng AFR in check is key. I would have no problem pushing a boost SRP past 1000hp.
Another thing is piston design; all pistons of the same manufacturer arn't going to be equal on deck thickness, or top ring height. Take for instance the dish top SCB SRP piston I have sitting here was made for boost, and has a .320'' thick deck, and top ring is -.300'' down from the deck. A flat top, or dome SRP piston that was designed for to be a light weight NA piston is going to have a much thinner deck, and higher top ring location. Throw your big shot of n20 or untuned boost on that and you could have an ashtray.
Yes staying out of det, and keepng AFR in check is key. I would have no problem pushing a boost SRP past 1000hp.
Another thing is piston design; all pistons of the same manufacturer arn't going to be equal on deck thickness, or top ring height. Take for instance the dish top SCB SRP piston I have sitting here was made for boost, and has a .320'' thick deck, and top ring is -.300'' down from the deck. A flat top, or dome SRP piston that was designed for to be a light weight NA piston is going to have a much thinner deck, and higher top ring location. Throw your big shot of n20 or untuned boost on that and you could have an ashtray.
