Turbonetics 6665 Twin Turbo build, Fab process started Post #71! finally!
12-09-2012, 12:35 PM
#1
Turbonetics 6665 Twin Turbo build, Fab process started Post #71! finally! Im going to start a twin turbo build next weekend, and was going to start by ordering some of these parts, look them over and see what you think. This is going to be a very long process, but i want it to be fun. Im extremely NERVOUS about this build lol. I've never done anything this in depth before, so I keep doubting myself lol.
I will start by standing the radiator up and getting it out of the way.. then Ill go from there.
This will be going on an AES390, im going to use my LS1 to mock everything up and get the hot/cold side done, that way when i order my engine, i can just drop it in when it gets here.
Shooting for 800-1000rwhp!
Parts list for monday!
2 - Turbonetics 66/65's
1 -K-member (midwest chassis/PA racing/bmr( havent decided yet
2 - T4 flanges
2 -Truck manifolds (I Need these, if you got em PM me!)
1 - EBoost2
4 - 90* 2.5" mild steel tubing (Manifolds to turbo hotside to start)
6 - 90* 3" mild steel tubing (down pipes)
1 - 180* 3" (downpipes)
2 - Precision 39mm Wastegates
1 - Griffin Radiator (the one everyone uses)
1 - Zirgo 16" Pusher fan
1 - Zirgo 8" Pusher fan
2 - 2.5" V-Band assemblies
2 - 3" Vband assemblies
Im going to wait on the hot side to get finished up before i start the cold side, so i can see exactly how much tubing i need.
I know i need radiator hoses, vacuum line, fittings and things like that. im just wanting to get everything mocked up, then ill start messing with the nickle and dime stuff lol
This look like a good start? Any tips or hints would be awesome! Ill keep this thread going for my questions along the way, then when im done, next year sometime, ill make an official build thread!
I will start by standing the radiator up and getting it out of the way.. then Ill go from there.
This will be going on an AES390, im going to use my LS1 to mock everything up and get the hot/cold side done, that way when i order my engine, i can just drop it in when it gets here.
Shooting for 800-1000rwhp!
Parts list for monday!
2 - Turbonetics 66/65's
1 -K-member (midwest chassis/PA racing/bmr( havent decided yet
2 - T4 flanges
2 -Truck manifolds (I Need these, if you got em PM me!)
1 - EBoost2
4 - 90* 2.5" mild steel tubing (Manifolds to turbo hotside to start)
6 - 90* 3" mild steel tubing (down pipes)
1 - 180* 3" (downpipes)
2 - Precision 39mm Wastegates
1 - Griffin Radiator (the one everyone uses)
1 - Zirgo 16" Pusher fan
1 - Zirgo 8" Pusher fan
2 - 2.5" V-Band assemblies
2 - 3" Vband assemblies
Im going to wait on the hot side to get finished up before i start the cold side, so i can see exactly how much tubing i need.
I know i need radiator hoses, vacuum line, fittings and things like that. im just wanting to get everything mocked up, then ill start messing with the nickle and dime stuff lol
This look like a good start? Any tips or hints would be awesome! Ill keep this thread going for my questions along the way, then when im done, next year sometime, ill make an official build thread!
Last edited by allout06; 12-29-2012 at 01:35 PM.
12-09-2012, 01:01 PM
#2
Looks pretty good. Get the T4 flanges with a round hole to fit your 2.5" pipe, makes life easier. You will need some 1 3/4 tubing for your wastegate inlet and outlet also. I usually use a flex and vband on the wastegate outlet into the downpipe also. When you order tubing you'll have to choose between mild and aluminized mild. The aluminized holds off corrosion but its kind of a pain stripping it off in the weld area and Ive switched to plain mild to avoid that.
Biggest thing is: Make sure you plan out where EVERYTHING is going to lay before welding stuff up. Air filters, wastegates, bov, ps lines, alt, etc, you get the idea.
Biggest thing is: Make sure you plan out where EVERYTHING is going to lay before welding stuff up. Air filters, wastegates, bov, ps lines, alt, etc, you get the idea.
12-09-2012, 01:10 PM
#3
Looks pretty good. Get the T4 flanges with a round hole to fit your 2.5" pipe, makes life easier. You will need some 1 3/4 tubing for your wastegate inlet and outlet also. I usually use a flex and vband on the wastegate outlet into the downpipe also. When you order tubing you'll have to choose between mild and aluminized mild. The aluminized holds off corrosion but its kind of a pain stripping it off in the weld area and Ive switched to plain mild to avoid that.
Biggest thing is: Make sure you plan out where EVERYTHING is going to lay before welding stuff up. Air filters, wastegates, bov, ps lines, alt, etc, you get the idea.
Biggest thing is: Make sure you plan out where EVERYTHING is going to lay before welding stuff up. Air filters, wastegates, bov, ps lines, alt, etc, you get the idea.
Ill go ahead and order filters too then. Any recommendations on filters?
Can i keep my alternator in stock poition?
what about the P/S lines?
12-09-2012, 01:30 PM
#4
I plan on running downpipes on each side of the engine, and tieing into my existing exhaust. I plan on buying a new K-member like i mentioned. Anyone had luck with running a 3" down pipe on the drivers side with just a standard tubular after marker k-member? the turbo k-members are like $600, i budgeted $500 for a k-member 
12-09-2012, 05:02 PM
#5
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I plan on running downpipes on each side of the engine, and tieing into my existing exhaust. I plan on buying a new K-member like i mentioned. Anyone had luck with running a 3" down pipe on the drivers side with just a standard tubular after marker k-member? the turbo k-members are like $600, i budgeted $500 for a k-member
12-09-2012, 05:43 PM
#6
With a standard k member you will not be able to sneak by the drivers side, only the passenger. As for the flanges, I know what ls1 nova is saying but IMO that flange design sucks. There will be 2 spots where the the tube will dead end into the. Mating surface of the turbo, just can't be good for flow, colmbia river makes some neat lil transitions from t4 to what ever size u need! Or you can sueez the tube, flatten the two sides and dolly the rest in. Takes patience but works good and saves a lil $$$
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12-09-2012, 09:41 PM
#8
Most likely just a standard 3" vband flange and clamp.
On those round flanges you can weld the outside and then dimple in the two spots on the inside of the pipe so it doesnt dead head against the turbine. If you have the skills then by all means shape that thing into a rectangle.
On those round flanges you can weld the outside and then dimple in the two spots on the inside of the pipe so it doesnt dead head against the turbine. If you have the skills then by all means shape that thing into a rectangle.
Good luck!Looks pretty good.
12-10-2012, 01:51 AM
#10
Isnt that turbo an odd Vband discharge size like 3 5/8's?? Or am i thinking about the precision version?
If so i would honestly look at running 3.5 for your downpipes for at least a couole feet or as far as you can fit then reduce down to 3.
Before welding your flanges to your pipes.... mock them up on the turbo and check the turbine inlet opening. It may need to be port matched a little.
If so i would honestly look at running 3.5 for your downpipes for at least a couole feet or as far as you can fit then reduce down to 3.
Before welding your flanges to your pipes.... mock them up on the turbo and check the turbine inlet opening. It may need to be port matched a little.
12-10-2012, 07:22 AM
#12
Most likely just a standard 3" vband flange and clamp.
On those round flanges you can weld the outside and then dimple in the two spots on the inside of the pipe so it doesnt dead head against the turbine. If you have the skills then by all means shape that thing into a rectangle.
On those round flanges you can weld the outside and then dimple in the two spots on the inside of the pipe so it doesnt dead head against the turbine. If you have the skills then by all means shape that thing into a rectangle.
Isnt that turbo an odd Vband discharge size like 3 5/8's?? Or am i thinking about the precision version?
If so i would honestly look at running 3.5 for your downpipes for at least a couole feet or as far as you can fit then reduce down to 3.
Before welding your flanges to your pipes.... mock them up on the turbo and check the turbine inlet opening. It may need to be port matched a little.
If so i would honestly look at running 3.5 for your downpipes for at least a couole feet or as far as you can fit then reduce down to 3.
Before welding your flanges to your pipes.... mock them up on the turbo and check the turbine inlet opening. It may need to be port matched a little.
12-10-2012, 02:33 PM
#16
The best exhaust for a turbo motor is no exhaust. The wheel works off of pressure differential and heat. Create 1 or 2 psi post turbine backpressure and it could create 2-3 times thar preturbine.
Youll need an actual die grinder and carbide burr.
Youll need an actual die grinder and carbide burr.
12-10-2012, 05:09 PM
#19
Inducer oc the compressor means jack to the turbine to downpipe relationship. Most people will tell you 125% dp to turbine wheel ratio is sufficient... and it is... but gains can be had here in response and spool if you think things through a little differently. Friend and I are experimenting with an 8 inch diameter expansion chamber on the downpipe of his S480.
12-10-2012, 05:22 PM
#20
sounds pretty complicated. Im going to just do a 3" for now and see what happens. Several people make 800+ with that, thats all I want. I do appreciate the info on that though. Im not saying your wrong, I dont have a lot of real estate to work with, so I'm tryin to make this as simple as possible. If i were a professional fabricator and could fit a 5" pipe through a 4" hole, Id try some crazy stuff lol.
Ordered some parts tonight. Big thanks to Jon @ Huron Speed for hooking me up with some of this stuff.
Parts i ordered tonight.
2 - Turbonetics TC66's .68 a/r
2 - Turbonetics Evolution Wastegates (saved some money vs going with precision)
1 - XSPower BOV
1 - Griffin Radiator
2 - Zirgo 10" Pusher fans
1 - PA Racing super turbo k-member in red
2 - AEM 4"x7" air filters
1 - Alternator relocation Kit
1 - 3" V band assembly with tig welded extensions from CRMB
1 - Extra 3" vband clamp
2 - 2.5" V-band assemblies
4 - 90* 2.5" mild steel tubing
6 - 90* 3" mild steel tubing
1 - 180* 3" mild steel tubing
2 - T4 Flanges w/ round port
Once i get the hotside fabbed up, Ill figure out how i want to run my WG tubing, i'll look into my cold side options, and ill pick up a boost controller. Ill do the oil feed/drain later after i purchase my motor. I went ahead and bought the BOV, just to save on shipping.
Should give me a pretty good start i think!
Ordered some parts tonight. Big thanks to Jon @ Huron Speed for hooking me up with some of this stuff.
Parts i ordered tonight.
2 - Turbonetics TC66's .68 a/r
2 - Turbonetics Evolution Wastegates (saved some money vs going with precision)
1 - XSPower BOV
1 - Griffin Radiator
2 - Zirgo 10" Pusher fans
1 - PA Racing super turbo k-member in red
2 - AEM 4"x7" air filters
1 - Alternator relocation Kit
1 - 3" V band assembly with tig welded extensions from CRMB
1 - Extra 3" vband clamp
2 - 2.5" V-band assemblies
4 - 90* 2.5" mild steel tubing
6 - 90* 3" mild steel tubing
1 - 180* 3" mild steel tubing
2 - T4 Flanges w/ round port
Once i get the hotside fabbed up, Ill figure out how i want to run my WG tubing, i'll look into my cold side options, and ill pick up a boost controller. Ill do the oil feed/drain later after i purchase my motor. I went ahead and bought the BOV, just to save on shipping.
Should give me a pretty good start i think!